Snopczynski

I wish it were true, I tried to make that pipe work for two years. I just dont see it though. Endless rides and dyno testing proved it was pretty much a worthless pipe compared to anything else. Only way I could see it working better is if your exhaust port has been lowered. Even then a set of pc's or fmf gnarley pipes will more than likely still blow the doors off of it. A lot of guys praise it, and they do this because they have never ran another pipe that was worth a damn. Moving to pro circuits from a dynoport pipe was like a night and day difference. Tons more low and midrange power, lots more peak power, easy to keep on the pipe, and lots of torque backup for those sticky situations out on rides.

Choke balance tube on? Slides backwards?

Like I said, the sst is standard in chrome new.

the 2 into 1 wont make a good trails pipe. It has to be kept up on the peak powerband to make power worth a damn.

Im pretty sure they use the same manufacturer as Ricky Stator on all their components.

This isn't true, the sst comes in standard chrome and is stamped as a gold series pipe. Back when they made the torque/mx pipe, and then come out with the original gold series pipe. It only had one name and that was "Gold Series". That was how you identified that original pipe, everything they make now was a spin off from there. That was these pipes. FMF Gold Series

Devcon makes a pretty popular filler as well. Hay, I always referred to it as "Match porting the cases" did I get it right?

Lets get something out in the open here. People recommend fatty's, that is not an mx pipe. The gnarly is the fmf mx pipe. FMF claims the fatty and the sst to have gains everywhere. We all know this is not possible for a 2 stroke pipe like the fatty to have a healthy increase everywhere. When you say gold series, in my mind you are referring to the old pipe made in the mid 90's. Now I realize that the fatty says gold series on it, but so does the sst and and the gnarly. So in my mind, gold series was the pipe made in the mid 90's that only had one name, and that was "Gold Series". DG pipes are loud, and hard to get replacement parts for. T5 is a mid-top pipe.

Pro Circuits.

I use these, much easier and you dont have to take the clutch cover off.

That will teach you to wear a helmet.

I was accounting for a 24.5" tire size at top speed. So yeah, I accounted for the growing tire. Plug chops with race gas aren't real accurate. Usually by the time the plug shows color, the bike is too rich. Its the additives they put in the race gas, it burns the porcelain real clean.

It says my top speed is lower than it really is as tested.

Its at least 6mph off in 6th gear from my bike (radar, gps) by my accounts of how big my rear tires would be on a wot run.

Keep the dual 28's. The only thing that will make the single better is the fuel sloshing you will get in the duals.

You have a trail/mx port with dmc's. I would go no bigger than 28mm flatslides. I personally like Mikuni TM's. If you build a strong low-mid rangew bike your not gonna need to worry about the topend that a bigger carb can help maintain. You are going to however lose some intake velocity. 2mm's bigger than stock is not a little change. I find it kind of funny that you said you refused to make such a small change. Your profile says you have a trail/mx port. I bet your exhaust port was barely moved up enough to smooth it out to keep all your bottom end power. So, now why would you want to make a big change somewhere else and put on a part that has to do with top end power and less with bottom end power. I find this odd, especially since youy had it ported for trails and mx. Its like putting a 800 cfm holley carb on a 1985 chevy pickup with a 350 that has a rv cam and intake on it. It just doesn't make sense.

I would do it for an amount to just cover the stone bits and sanding discs.

Do a search its on here.

I had my grandma sew in a giant piece of bdu camoflouge on each of my pant legs. Haven't burned em on my pipes since.

The banshee has a waste spark ignition. So it fires once at tdc and once at bdc. You have to use a tach that can be configured to account for the extra spark on that hole.

I think it was mopar that sent me some pics of his cylinders, they looked pretty good. Everything was smooth and symmetrical. He asked me lots of questions so he got his port widths and heights right.

I built a fiberglass box for under the back seat of my Dodge Ram Quad Cab. I used a flat pioneer 10" woofer.

They are T3's with sparky spark arrestors.

I had performance coatings do my pro circuits. They blasted off the nickel and ceramic coated them flat black. Look at the pic in my sig.