Fastrat

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Did you tear into the clutch, how far tore down did you go? Could be the adjustment on the press plate. Could just be the plates dried out. Probably a few other things too, but I think those would be most common. I'm sure someone else will give you a slew of stuff to look at. GL

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Damn, didn't see this is like your third post on this.

Just get yourself some wire and make your own. There's an electrical diagram on this site. Not tough, and if you're building it from the ground up, I'm sure you can handle it. Most people take a stock one and cut out or remove what they don't use. GL

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Since most of the problems have cleared up, I'd say you're on the right track

You might need to look into rebuilding your top end bro. I wouldn't go to 18 with a good top end without race gas. Just my view of it tho.

I'd also do a leakdown if you haven't and make sure there's no air leak leaning it out. GL

Definetely float, if you find grass or something in there(like I have before) I would also check the petcock to make sure the filters are still attached and it doesn't reoccur.

If you have rear caliper still, pm me. Good luck with the sale

Yeah, that's what mine looks like. Thanks.

It does help a bit. The measurement specs are the same as Keihins website, but it looks like the S65 denotes a 35mm carb, and I believe it to also be an Air Stryker. Thanks

It has a threaded top, and PWK is stamped into the carb body.

I tried searching the info first, but I can't find it. Does anybody know the size and specs of a Keihin PWK with the numbers S65A2 SEL stamped into the body. I've taken measurments and it looked to be a 33 or 35 according to keihin's website, but the overall height of the carb looks to be too short to match those two carbs. Trying to ID them so I can start getting this basket I bought all together and running right. Thanks.

If I remember correctly, this is normal. Wiseco does this to offset the difference in thermal expansion between the top and bottom of the piston. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "the bottom doesn't fit" though.

I second that, it'll run fine without that wire. I have the same green/yellow and it's taped off, runs fine.

This sounds more like full throttle shifting, like the pro drag bikes run. There are kits just like these being used in street bike drag racing, same advantage as an air shifter. If dragging is a huge part of your riding, and you have the other mods done for more power, I say go for it.

I don't think it's any more work to do it properly than to rig it your way. Take a look at the factory diagram and you will see that Yamaha designed the kill switches to ground out a completely different part of the circuit. Also, there are connectors that do not require cutting, they clamp over a wire and splice into the insulation. I thnk it would be beneficial to maintain the current structure of the circuit, there's a reason Yamaha engineers designed it that way. My way, it's one splice and connect a ground. If that's too much work, maybe a four-poke would suit you better.

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Is your motor running, or are you just playing around with it in the garage. If you rock the quad back and forth, or moving it would be better, it should shift fine. Just sitting stationary, it probably would be normal operation as you describe it.

Take care in doing this, you could really screw things up if you do it wrong. The dowels should be at the intake side of the motor. The gaps have to go there. There is usually an arrow on the piston that points to the exhaust side when the piston is installed properly.