Fastrat

Just get yourself a timing plate for now, then when it's time for a rebuild, sent off your jugs to FAST or another reputable shop, and tell them exactly what you have so they know what to port it for. Get reeds, a coolhead, put all together and go....That's your best bet, IMO

+1 on that, I think the rules say PRICE, location and pics are a requirement. So don't get pissed when you get offers of a swap for bubblegum wrappers, it's your own fault. BTW, just because you join doesn't mean you need to sell off your toys. I've got mine in England(plus a few other toys), and they shipped everything here for me. GL

I'm needing a rear caliper in good shape. How much?

Not to jump on your post, but I have one 19cc I'm looking to sell for the same price, and in the same shape. So if someone wants a set let em know I'll sell em one and you can sell em yours. Just another option for you, later

+1 on fire trick, but also more dangerous(first found this trick watching 4x4 guys in Iceland, works nicely). I've had to go more than 20psi to seat beads before, the side of the tire should say max seating press...and going over it by a bit won't hurt.

Sounds like you just need to give it more gas and slip the clutch a little more when pulling out. Ride it like you stole it bud, it's not a 450....

LOL, yeah, I knew I was misunderstanding something, when he said cut one float off I thought he meant cutting off the entire float in one carb. I actually realized what he really meant on my way to work last night, but don't have access to the forum there. Cutting off one half of the float would increase fuel space w/no real loss. I knew no bad information would be posted on here, not sure why I couldn't figure out what he meant sooner. My bad man.lol :shoothead: Open mouth, insert foot.........

Maybe it'll run fine for a few hundred feet wide open, but he specifically said something about trail riding. Nobody but a drag racer would benefit from overloading their bowls. The floats keep the fuel at a certain level in the carb so that when the air passes thru it pulls only a specific amount of fuel, that's how a carb works, it's called venturi principle and all carbuerators work on that concept. By cutting off the floats, you are ruining the metering effectiveness of the carb everywhere except full throttle, and maybe idle(and that's if you somehow don't have gas pouring out the overflow). The only reason it could work at full throttle is because the motor sucks enough gas at WOT and only the main is relevant to the metering process for that few hundred feet. I've had a float stick open on mine, and it caused nothing but problems, bad running and overflowing fuel. I don't have experience running a 421 in drag, so I'm not discounting you or yours, but what I would suggest is that instead of cutting up and ruining a carb, try removing the needle valve off the float so it can't shutoff. Same effect, but totally reversible, and if it works in the drag, GREAT, either way, you can put it back for trails... On the cylinders, if you're sure there's nothing in there, you should be alright, like I said, on my computer there looks to be a hole.

Uh, maybe I'm not understanding this, but are you guys telling him it's okay to cut off either of his floats and let fuel pour unregulated into his carbs? I'm hoping not, cause his bike probably would never run right until he got a new set of floats and set them properly. Don't cut off the floats, they are extremely important at keeping the fuel level in a specific level so that the venturis pull a properly regulated amount of fuel into to motor to burn. They are not only there to keep fuel from overflowing. If not set properly, you'll never jet your bike right. I'm sure I'm not reading something right here, cause trail riding a bike that's overflowing and running waaayyy to fat wouldn't be a whole lotta fun. On my computer, it looks like there's a hole in the cylinder, if so get them resleeved and get bigger bowls on the carbs, I would check out the bottom end while it's apart, there's a chance you did some damage to your crank. I just can't believe that your motor is at 0 comp and no chunks of metal are not where they should be. GL

pm'd you

you could always try a nut-splitter too. A tool that goes around the nut and you tighten down a bolt on the side that runs a chisel-like edge into the nut until it splits, just be careful not to go too far and end up messing up the studs. I'd try the nut removal sockets they said first, but if you don't have access to em, almost any auto parts store has a nut splitter/breaker.

+1 on bansheeboy's post

I always try a good set of vice grips first, then I'd try grinding a slot. If that doesn't work, drill off just the heads and remove the plate, leaving a nice nub to get a vice grip on. Last chance is try drilling it and an easy out. I've used this more times than I can count. GL

It's either the seats or the float level, nothing else could cause it. Make sure the seats are properly installed and the floats set properly to spec and they move freely. I've had this problem when a piece of grass got into my carb and wedged itself in the seat. GL

I'd try checking float level in your carbs if you're sure they're getting fuel into the bowl, and then do a leakdown to make sure the right side ain't leaning out so bad it won't fire.. GL