Fastrat

lol, I think it gives you about the same as a boost bottle.

yeah, porbably low compression, could be stator too. good luck

I agree with that, I would rather repack, than take em off.

The response was to explain to RM why it didn't matter, and to explain the flow characteristic of a burnt out silencer. No offense meant, not trying to start some kind of stupid debate when we agree there's no reason to run without them. Bansheetuner, is it a possibility that you tuned/jetted your bike for burnt out silencers?

Not true, if the packing is burnt up, the exhaust gases will not have a smooth flow through the silencer. Look in the end, or repack one yourself. It's just a tube with holes drilled into it. The sound waves bounce around in the exhaust and get absorbed by the packing. If the packing is not burnt out, the gas will flow smoothly even as the sound is absorbed. If there are spaces the gas can get into and bounce around then the flow is more turbulent, it will not flow as much. That being said, exhaust not flowing as much air, engine not flowing as much air. That's why repacking a blown out silencer actually makes a difference in power. The only part of a pipe that is tuned is in the head pipe, the big fat part also known as the expansion chamber. The backpressure and exhaust resonance reflecting off that expansion chamber helps the engine move air. After the expansion chamber's outlet there is very little consequence on the exhaust characteristics. That is why different pipes have different size/length epansion chambers, after the outlet, though, they all use a pretty basic silencer. The gain on top and loss on bottom should be undetectable to anything but a dyno. I suggest anyone really interested in this look around on the internet for a book called "2 stroke tuner's handbook". The length and size of a straight pipe does, however, make a differnce in a four stroke. The four-pokes use valves and an extra cycle in the engine to move the air. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. 2-strokes are suck/squeeze, bang/blow, gotta love em'. All this being said, I don't recommend removing your silencer. If for nothing more than just sound reasons alone.

It shouldn't affect the bike to any noticable degree. All the backpressure required is made in the head pipe and that's the part that is tuned. The silencer is there to quiet the bike, though it will affect performance if the packing is worn out.

TTT

The nicad ones from a hobby store are supposed to last longer anyway. I was just reading it on the MSD site, and they say to get one from a hobby store for extended ride time.

Yeah bro, good luck on that.

come to think of it, I think you can just switch out the twist grip for the thumb throttle. The cable is the same, will just slid out, not sure though. If you can, I'll trade you straight up. Later

Demon340 is selling one, it would be cheaper to buy his than build one, trust me. He looks to be in NY.

Looking for a set of +2 tie rods. W/ ends would be nice but I can do without, only one of my old ends is screwed up. Of course, I'm looking for a half decent price on them too. Thanks

Damn, if you posted this a week ago, I'd have bought it. I just drove past you to LA to pick one up.

Check out this former post http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=28184&hl= Basically, all you are doing is applying vacuum or pressure(your choice due to availability of what tools you can get) and making sure that your engine is sealed up well enough. If you lose pressure/vacuum over ten minutes or so, one of your seals is leaking and you engine will suck in air. Just make sure it's not leaking at any of the temporary seals you installed to do the test.

Mine isn't for stock, sorry.

What carbs is the cable for, Stock?

When you get it back together, you need to do a leakdown on that side. Then I'd recheck all my boots and jetting.

Interested in shocks, are they for +2 A-arms? Sent PM

Any washer that fits would work temporarily. Just modify it so that there's a tang that will go into the basket, and bend the other end up over the nut. You're gonna have to tear it all back apart to do it right though.

Alright, deal, as long as it works right and isn't blown with no rebound.

Yeah, pretty normal.

Yeah, Definetely inspect the boot and crank seal when the cylinder is off.

Did you make sure you torqued the cylinder and head nuts again? After a rebuild, it it necessary to retorque them after the first ride. The heat will cause metal to expand and contract and you may lose your torque, thus losing the seal and letting it suck in air making it really lean. I would try retorqueing everything first. If the torque is good, I would pull the cylinder on that side to inspect it. Later

The fingers worn into the clutch basket are from the clutch plates wearing into it. This usually causes a bike that will want to creep even when the clutch is pulled in. I've never known of this to cause an inability to shift, though. Maybe in an extreme case it won't disengage the engine from the tranny and acts like shifting under full power. Easy fix for this, use a flat file and file it smooth. I don't recommend a dremel, it's too easy to take off too much material. All you want to do is make it smooth so that when the clutch is actuated, the plates can freely float and disengage the engine from the tranny. So don't take too much off. Also look at the inner hub the steel plates ride on, chances are the same thing is going on there.