BlazinOne

I agree and disagree with some of these statements.I think the banshee is definitely and outcast in the XC world,but that doesn't mean it can't win.The only quad I've ever owned were banshees.If you know how to ride them and set them up,they can still be competitive.They will never handle like a TRX or YFZ,but if you have never had anything else to compare to you don't know any better.If your just starting out,then it would be a good idea to go with a 4 stroke, but hard core old school banshee know still know how to get it done! As for mudholes and such,if theres enough room to "walk on water",thats the plan.I've tried it on some newer 4 strokes and the power just doesn't come on right.On the banshee a 20-30ft washout leaves only a rainforest mist in its wake. I still run XC on lower level competition on occassion and I run shaved fenders front and rear.I don't go out there to become champion on the banshee,but theres nothing better than besting 4strokes that have big$$$ invested into them. A good friend of mine still pulls his out for MX and can still spank the competition on the right tracks. I could probably be so much faster on a TRX but I don't think I would have as much fun. Thats all that I look for,If I happen to find my way to the front,thats just a bonus.

Do yourself a favor and get a honda throttle 400 or 300ex. if your worried about the logo,get a billet top. The Honda throttles have a totally different ratio. everyone I know with banshees run them, even some of the YFZ's have them

X-Ring are definetly the best,but you can go Primary drive or DID and you'll have a good chain.DID does the best IMO and I have ran them all.I worked at the old Tsubaki (Union chain)

Im glad others have decided to go with these so called "cheap knockoffs".I've been running these carbs for years and been trying to turn people on to them.Why waste your $$$ on the Keihn name,when these carbs perform on the same level.

Yamabond,its not the easiest to clean up but it seals gaskets permanently

First off,get yourself a spare plastic radiator grille.I made air deflectors out of an old grille that really helped to redirect the air coming into the radiator and forces it thru,rather than going around the sides.I mounted the deflectors in the existing screw holes for the grille cover.If you match up the diamonds you'll see they just make the spacing for the bolt holes.Use your imagination.The angle of the solid plastic wing to the platic diamond mesh is perfect.Hard to explain,easy to figure out when its all in front of you.You cant even see it unless you really look into radiator cover. You will also need a billet impellar,huge waterflow improvement.A cool head is better money spent vs a radiator.The cool heads really make a difference,not to mention the heads themselves have double the aluminum of a stock head.More aluminum,more heat dissapation. I've ran a temp gauge for years.160-180 getting good airflow.180-200 with very moderate.200-220 with minmal. I've maintained 200-220 for extended period of time with no problems.Even with a temp gun,220 at the head only shows 150-160 at base of cylinders.Thats were the damage is done from overheating.

He's usually there from 9-4 weekdays.He spends Sat and Sun out of town tuning the Pro's atvs.He does all the Dyno tuning for Bill Ballance and other top riders,not to mention some pipe manufacturers

Can't say enuff about how good these knock offs are.Do a search,I think you will find they are well worth the money. A couple bucks more?Try a whole lot more for exactly the same results.If your into impressing others with your wallet,then go buy the real things. If your looking to impress them with the way your banshee runs,Save yourself some cash and get the 30mm ebay ones.Since there bored 28's,you can use stock boots.If you give him your engine specs,he will set up your carbs and give you extra jets. If your dumb enough to waste your money on Keihns then get ready to dump more into intakes or reed spacers to clear the clutch arm. These carbs use custon bowls with side overflow.The guy is well known and respected in these parts.He specializes in carburation for powersports equipment.

Do yourself a favor and get them direct from Works.They wil cost a bit more,but they will set it up for your exact weight,riding style and tire size.I rebuilt and revalved alot of works shocks in the past.IMO they are the easiest shocks to work on.The tech at Works performance made it real easy.They are not the best shocks on the market,but if their set up right they will work great for most applications

I run Unikos on the shee and Powermadd on my raptor.The powermadds are really nice.They have a number of attachments.They both run about 90 bucks with all the bells and whistles.A must for anyone running shaved fenders and riding the woods. Both fit well with Fast Flexx bars.

3 years and 20 harescrambles.Just had them p-coat for next year.Not bad for 300 dollar A-arms IMO

Let me tell ya,The welds are as good or better as the big money A-Arms.The finish was my biggest gripe. Thats the problem with people,they judge a book by its cover.I did my research and found that the company was sold to another manufacturer.The price was reasonable,so I invested in a set.I was happy with those and I went ahead and bought a set for my Raptor. The same goes for Rocket pipes,if I went by everything I heard,I would never touch them again. For 329.00,They are well worth it.I'm more into function and fit rather than looks and the "name brand status" Wicked makes a nice A-arm too at an affordable price.I have 2 friends that run those on their banshees and they like them alot.

They are the off brand keihn PWK style,but with custom float bowls.This guy has been selling these carbs forever.He does all the tuning for Bill Ballance and Traci Cecco.Heres the link to website. They perform as well as Keihns at a fraction of the price.He is also known a Mr Mikuni in these parts. http://www.carbparts.com/

Full flight are great for the price if you don't mind heim joints.I've had a set on the Shee for 3 years and no problems,i also have a set on the Raptor.Check em out on Ebay. The arms are built very well,don't care for the heims though.I hear someone is in the process of making a universal boot for Heims.That would greatly help.

Forget the bore job,get a set of 30mm from carb parts warehouse.i belive he has a ebay store also.i paid $ 225 with cable and extra jets.the guy is located in Ohio.Its a pwk design with custom bowls to clear the clutch arm. I gave him my mods and the jetting he set it up with was dead on with the exception of the needle setting.

I back this claim 100 %.My dealings and 2 others thru Ebay had same results.They stock nothing,do not buy from them if you need something fast.The reason they take so long is their a middle man.2 friends had same problems They order as orders come in,Same with MotoMan.That guys stocks absolutely nothing.

Im totally the opposite.I can walk over most 4 strokes in the woods.I would probably be a little more competitive on a new 450. I've been woods racing my shee for so long that I have become part of it.Not to mention its like racing a relic,so the losers don't take it well. Endurance is the key.If your in excellent shape you can survive on a Banshee Set your quad up for the woods,you can't have a Mx/XC/TT machine. Woods pipes are good for beginners,but I run top-end pipes PC or T-5 with lots of over revv and correct gearing. Good tires preferable XCR/XCT or Razors,skid plates,handguards and a good set of bars.Properly set up shocks and a steering stab will increase stamina greatly.The more riding time you get,the better racer you will become.Always challenge yourself.If it wasn't for scrambles I don't think I'd still be riding one.I'm going to keep it until the open class is eliminated.

Looking for a aftermarket swinger and carrier,preferably with skid plate mounts. Stock length or -1.PM me with details and shipping to Ohio. Thanks

If your still looking,i have a set of PC Platinums in excellent shape with spark arrestor silencers.250.00 shipped

You need to compare apples to apples and baselines like this are not accurate. I've been running 180-185 for years and i can get away with 50/50.Ive even ran tanks of 75% 94 and 25% 108 and showed no signs of detonation with +4 timing Your dome shape is the deciding factor.I have found with an aftermarket head you can get away with alot more than a stock head.Porting/port timing/ignition timing/compression/jetting all contribute to octane requirements. You can always play the safe side and just do the race gas thing,but if I did that,I would have traded my stroker crank kit for peace of mind.Thats what the extra race fuel would have amounted to in one season. 150 with timing will timing will do just fine with 94.If you need a bump,add some good octane boost.

Looks like those knarlys are a bit rusty,but how straight are they?No dents?.Let me know and I'll shoot you offer.

This clutch is like new.Half the cost of a new one,could be a deal for someone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem

Looks nice!

I pm'd you