Strm Trpr

Up for sale are my Platinum Grey ProTaper Contour 1-1/8" CR Mid Bend Bars w/ODI Rogue Grips and black on black ProTaper bar pad. Bar pad is brand new still in the center of the box. RMATV sells the bars for $67.50. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/947/8610/Pro-Taper-Contour-1-1-8%22-Handlebar?term=protaper+cr+mid+bend+contours RMATV sells the ODI Rogue Clamp on Grips for $26. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/948/22479/Odi-ATV-Lock-On-Grips-Rogue?term=odi+rogue+grips I'll let this set-up go for $65 Paypal'd and I'll cover Paypal fees. Due to the bars not fitting into a flat rate box, I'll get a quote on shipping to the lower 48 states and we'll split shipping.

Up for sale are my gently used Chariot Billet Intakes and Chariot Billet Reed Cages. I want to sell these as a kit, so please don't ask. I installed these with Chariot Billet Intakes, Chariot Billet Reed Cages and a Chariot Billet Timing Plate set to +4* timing advance. With these mods I could pull 6th gear with 20" Sand Skate II 8 paddles in Pismo with stock 14/41 gearing. Before these mods I couldn't shift into 6th at all. Chariot is selling the internal cross-over billet intake for $147 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chariot-Banshee-Billet-Intakes-26-30-carb-Crossover-VForce-2-3-4-/252361540262?hash=item3ac1eb82a6:m:mloFOmdYxyNX428-ou9Ijvg&vxp=mtr Chariot is selling the billet reed cages with Boyesen 2 Stage Reeds for $170 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chariot-Banshee-Billet-Reed-Cages-Better-THAN-V-Force-/281679155262?hash=item419562d03e:m:mQiUSx_OuClf0SVTwBdmZ5w&vxp=mtr I'll let these go for $230 Paypal'd and I'll cover Paypal fees and shipping to the lower 48 states. I found the genuine Mikuni Boots on eBay for an Arctic Cat Snowmobile. Comes with everything you see here.

Never used still in package. FAST wants $105 + shipping. http://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/categories/carbs-intakes/pingel-powerflo-fuel-valve-dual.html?limit=100 $95 Paypal'd and I'll cover Paypal fees and shipping to the lower 48 states.

I've owned stock bolt-on motors. Last Labor Day I rode with my new +2 Fireball swingarm, +4 axle and rebuilt/revalved shock, front LT set-up, and with my controls upgrades, everywhere I went, I was WFO. Everything I've ever owned was about handling and control before power. I've been riding for almost 3 decades, so I have the skill to handle power, just never spent the money on a build. Thankfully I've enjoyed my two Banshees for 25 years and my motors stay together. So, now that my suspension and handling is top notch, I'm burning almost 20 gallons of fuel in 3 days. Doubling my power to 80whp on pump gas will be all I ever need. Plus I don't want fuel economy to suffer too much and I plan to run a Clarke 5.5 gallon tank with this build. Going 10 mil for my first built motor seemed very excessive and so is the cost!!

And I was going to buy Driveline Billet Bowls, but only after the dyno showed that the stock carbs actually didn't hurt power. But all of that doesn't matter now because 33mm PWK's and cross-over UPP intakes will be ordered.

One of the guys approached me and paid what I wanted. I've ridden the carbs. They did improve top end some, but I just know that using these on a Serval is going to make power suffer. I've read that and talked to two different builders that have dyno tested them. The Venturi is too small no matter how you slice it, Servals draw too much air thru and the small Venturi chokes power...

Plus I don't want to pay to have Cam switch parts out on the dyno. Just gonna run the following: 33mm PWK's w/K&N and outerwears UPP Intakes w/cross-over VF4's CP Cast Head w/ sea level domes and a set for 4,000 ft. MX/Dune Ported 4 mil Serval CPI's and whatever timing Cam suggests with 91 octane....

From what I've read stk carbs have great torque, but lack in power throughout. Going to 35's didn't lose any power down low and gained throughout. I need money to fund this fiasco...

This is for sale. Pics going up tonight. | Chariot Billet non-Crossover Intakes | | Chariot Billet Reed Cages w/Boyesen Stage 2 Reeds |

Stock carbs sold today, so the stock carb dyno session is not happening...

Bummer man, I had a feeling that was too good to be true.

Sorry about starting shit about 38's. I googled,"polaris xlt snowmobile carbs" and 38's came up.

Thanks for the heads up!!I don't want to spend the money on straight cuts if I don't have to run them. If your brother has a 4mil Cub running helicals for 4 seasons then I'll be fine with a puny 4 mil mx/dune port Serval... One of many reasons why Cam is building my motor. I did call another shop, they didn't answer. Cam told me some very interesting tid bits of info that surprised the heck out of me. Needless to say up for sale will be the following: | Chariot Billet non-Crossover Intakes | | Chariot Billet Reed Cages w/Boyesen Stage 2 Reeds | | Toomey T5's | I'll be taking pics of all of this in the coming days...

Cool, this is sounding like a decent savings.

Agreed, thanks for your input!!

Rule number 1, never buy pistons without having the cylinders mic'd... Rule number 2, see rule number 1.

Oh yeah?I thought at 80+ whp levels it was more of a reliability thing vs desire. Thoughts? I have asked Cameron if they're necessary on this build in a PM. I'm waiting to hear back.

How do you feel about sliding with straight paddles vs v-paddles. I heard straight paddles will allow the bike to snap slide right out from under you when crawling sideways on a dune or slide angles get too big? Thoughts?

Thanks for that. Do you have any other recommendations, ie, paddle tires, straight paddle vs v-paddle?

Damn, that's complicated. I mean how different is it? Do you get stuck easier with one paddle or the other? Do you think the 10 paddles edges bite too hard in St A's and rob too much power?

Do you have any recommendations for paddles? I've never ridden a straight paddle aggressively sliding in sand. I've heard when sliding hard, you reach a certain angle and the bike just slips right out from under you, is that true?

Fo Sho!! Thanks for the heads up. More than likely I'll run 14/41 with 21" tires.

Only Sand!! Thinking 21-12-8 on a 8x8 DWT A5 black rim w/8 paddle skat trak edges. Or 21-12-10 on a 10x10 DWT A5 black rim w/STU sand skate 9 paddle play cut. ^^^ This was recommend by a guy at STU.

So my plans are to get Cameron my motor by July 12th. In your opinion, should a motor of this caliber have straight cut drive gears? Regardless, there'll be a billet basket, Redline clutch w/light springs and a Driveline Slingshot Lock Out under the stock clutch cover. Unless Jerry at Chariot releases his billet clutch covers by then. Trans will be ProMod'd. Dyno day sometime in early August will be as follows: 91 octane w/sea level domes Bored RB Designs stock carbs w/K&N pods Modded stock intakes w/cross-over VF4's + timing CPIs vs Snipers In the next corner we have the following: 91 octane w/sea level domes Keihin 33mm PWK's w/K&N pods UPP intakes w/cross-over VF4's + timing CPIs vs Snipers Should be very interesting. My money is on the CPIs and the 33's for an all around better curve. Snipers and 33's will probably throw down a bigger number, but we'll see. If the difference up the face of the curve is within 2 hp but +8-10 up top with more over rev, then I'm gonna go with the Snipers.

They look like 38mm mikuni round slide carbs. Basically a bigger version of the stock Banshee carb. For how I ride, I'd never put 38mm carbs on a Banshee. Large carbs = lost fuel economy. Large carbs = lazy bottom end power. IMO, 38mm carbs are for long stroked/ported motors or full blown drag ported 350's burning alcohol. I'm not saying these carbs won't work, but it may be a detriment to your bike if the motor doesn't require such large carbs. Maybe at 5,000ft where you ride 38's are the bees knees, who knows, and there's only one way to find out... Look for KX85 motorcycle carbs if you want a good used carb. They are Keihin 28mm PWK's. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Kx85+carbs&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xkx85+carbs&sqp=kx85+carbs&rt=nc&redirect=mobile Personally when it comes to my motor's breathing I want brand new components.... If your motor isn't stroked and ported stock carbs are perfectly fine up to around 80whp. They can run really well, but their tiny bowls can get sucked dry when doing long wide open blasts with a stroked and ported motor. There are billet driveline bowls that increase capacity, but a motor that's big enough to drain the bowls is probably also going to be choking for air through the stock carb Venturi. I'm building a Serval and will more than likely go with 33mm PWK's. From what I'm told the slightly bigger carbs will make more power everywhere on the curve over stock carbs. When Redline builds my motor this summer, it'll be dynoed with bored stock carbs and 33mm PWK's. If the stockers can out perform the 33mm PWK's, we'll all be pleasantly surprised and I'll buy a set of Driveline Performance's billet oversized bowls for stock carbs...