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i would try the 110 octane i was running lower octane gas in april after my rebuild and it was poping and i blue it up my compresion was at 173 and not a enough octane. fixed the moter and went to 110 and albetter now

i just pull bottom radiator hose and let drain blow the blow in the hose then refill and do it again then pull the side plugs.

well took the side cover off and found out that my clutch basket shattered SWEAT easy fix i think got it all taken apart and had an extra clutch system laying around thankgod but what im wondering is what could make that happen i got a lock out clutch or could it be just the ariginal basket was starting to get weak. and also should i split the cases before i put it back together i dont know if anything can get in the cases or not. Thanks for the help

ive got the k@t intakes and the crossovers are built right inside of them

im at 1000 ft and got the main at 155 pilot at 55 and needle in 4th with 40 over bore , dune and trail port 34 pj carbs , tommy t 5 , k@t intake with v-force , noss head with 18cc domes at 176 compression using turbo blue and runs great

thats cool i can wait i useally use setting 2 it revs out higher i was just wondering which setting is what. i can wait for your response others might want it also and thanks for looking

i got one and you can deffently notice the differance in the curves but my only problem is i dont know what curve is what becouse i lost the sheet that tell ya. so if anyone can help me out i would apreciate it i did a search and nothing thanks

cool thanks guys ive been m i a. I never knew you had to break in a clutch. i do skuff the steels and presoak the fibers i use klots oil and have the tommy heavy dutty springs in

when ever i go to the sand dunes i go though a set of barnet clutch it could be a new clutch in the morning and by the end of the night it would be fried. So i bought a lock out clutch system will that help any and what does it do thanks for the help

i bought the fs ignition and was wondering what each curves are for. what i bought it during the winter and lost my sheet. i was looking for a little help. i did a search on it and could not get any resolts thanks for the help

ive got the dyna fs and works great. and u dont need the advance timeing plate with it . i was told to keep your timing at stock

egnine ice works great and dont get the boost bottle waist of money

theres r&b racing in lansing he did my moter this last winter bored it out the hole nine yards.real good resionable in price. its going back to him next winter for a bigger crank and i would recomend him to anyone. And he does his own work. he is in ovid mich. his name is rob or bob cant remeber but if u want his number pm me.

i just had my moter redone and put the 21 in and had 120 psi switched it to 19 domes and have 176psi and running 110 octain. im also at 1100 evlevation

i put the 45 piliot in and did not help so ichanged it back and moved the needle to 2nd from the bottom and helped out alot thank for the help

thats a pretty sweat looking girl u got there and the SOS is a great way to clean thats what i use then repolish all my crome

the needle i dont know what kind but it takes regulare hex jets if that tells u anyting and i just went and got some piolets and mains ill change the piolet and let u know thanks

rebuilt the engine this winter and has a bog at low rpms. i have kiene 34ml pj carbs,tommy t5s 20 over bore v force 3 reads with k&t intake, clamp on filters,ported and polished, dyna fs ignition,and the noss head with 19 domes. compresion is 175 at 1000 ft above sea leval and my jetting is 50 piliot, 60 main and the needle is in the 3rd clip. im running 110 octane. the problem is at low rpms mainly in 1st and 2 gear. When i hammer the gas it wants to die but if i ease in on the gas its fine. any help would be apreceated thanks

just got new carbs and need new intakes. was wondering if there all the same execpt in the size and the price. like the upp are 100$ and the vitos are 189$ and there both billet thank you for the help

i just put 34s on mine and u have to get new boots, get the clamp on filters, and the throto cables for the carbs your going to get. i dont know if this is true but the guy that is doing my moter work told me i had to get new reeds to get the v force 2 but they discontinued them so i got the 3s and he has to modify my intakes. but as long as its fast i dont care. got the carbs for x-mas and theres a lot u have to do besides just through the carbs on and start it up

what good would 15 - 42 do just wondering. i got 15 on askadent insted of 14

it sounds like your clutch is going check the oil and does it smell like its burnt then its the clutch

my shee would start to steam at the radeator when i was at a stand still when use reagular anterfreeze. put the luqid ice in and it doesnt over heat at all . just dont pay atention to how much it cost its well werth the price

i had an after marcket cdi that went bad on me and it would take 50 to 100 kicks when engian was warm or cold put stock back on and started up 2nd kick every time. or your slide could be stuck if u have the safty device still hocked up it wont run had that happen to me before to. good luck

look into a powernow valve there pretty cool better throttle responce real easy to install