FasterThanU90

if ur not getting fluid: 1. the master cyl. isnt level 2. ur bleeder hose isnt looped ABOVE the bleeder valve and submerged in brake fluid 3. leak in the lines "..which is to open the valve, pull the brake lever, tighten the valve then release the brake lever and repeat until only fluid comes out with no air" Little mixed up there Hitman u pump the lever, pull it in.. hold it.. open the bleeder valve if ur doin it right the fluid should shoot out pretty quickly then close the bleeder valve, release lever and continue to pump, repeat till theres no air in lines TIP: a clear bleeder hose is much needed if theres anymore problems feel free to ask

i dont really like the look of the T5s but ive never tried them. The PCs with the 304 silencers are a good overall all around pipe great Mid range/Top End and Sound Sweet. Maybe Stan can make u up a Graph

i got the new J&P Cycles catalog has sum good prices i was surprised how cheap the pipes were like 50 bucks for a set have fun on that sweet bike bud

yah ive even heard people use them on asphalt very tough paddles

"I could sit here and write pages of stuff explaining the physics behind what is going on in the motor,but frankly I don't care what you think that much. Go ahead, warm up your fresh rebuild and rev the piss out the motor." no need to explain save ur breath expecially coming from a woman who wrapped her `shee around a tree What the fuck is wrong with u ? No reason to turn into a bitch I'm not saying I'm just gonna rev the fuck outta my engine which is not necessary there's no teeth on the rings the cyl. act as the file to shape the rings smartass "If you take it slow, how are the teeth not going to break off eventually? What is going to happen in that period of time that you break it in slow that will keep it from ever wearing down smooth? " Oh they will wear down eventually but not evenly as motoman is saying if u try to break it in slow the rings will not push out 360 degrees evenly from not enough cyl pressure when that bike is idling or goin slow as again Motoman says. If ur doin it ur way diff parts of the rings are gonna be touching more than others and its gonna shape the rings akwardly

3-4 weeks and need replated what happend?

the only thing i could see causing a prob is the rougness causing the rings to wear too much and and once the sleeves are smoothed they wont fully seat against the walls either way sum1 please correct me if im wrong

what he wrote makes complete sense and all u guys are saying its bullshit but i have yet to see sum facts nonetheless sum evidence of the "other" processes u guys claim work so well too sum it up he just is saying that the virgin cyl. work as a temporary file to shape the rings perfectly 360 degrees and without pressure pushing those rings out against the sides of the cyl. which is caused by riding it, if its just idling those rings arent being pushed just goin up and down as he said "along for the ride" they arent gonna seat fully and the roughness off the cyl. is gonna wear out and then ur fucked which is gonna cause poor performance !! Am i wrong if soo someone Please! correct me and as ive asked whats a good non synthetic premix? "once you get on it the engine will run hotter, and the piston is the first thing to heat up (and therefore the rings too)." even if ur right ur point is................?

" Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation." He was talking about the premix

i have gear saver in both bikes i think 80 or 85 wt think i should switch it up for break in?

yah the head nuts came a little loose but no biggie it also says not using sythetic oils are there talking about premix right? if so what do u guys suggest?

wow ive heard alot on engine break in and now i think im gonna change my ways even Jeff at Fast said to do "heat cycles"or whatnot and let it idle while letting it into the powerband shortly i let it idle till warm about twice but now i think im just gonna take it out and let it RIP go through the gears then let it decelerate on its own and go through the gears again what do u guys think?

are these prices shipped? ill probly buy that frame pm me with pics

what do thes 6 x9 boxes look like?

Kick start always u should never have to pull start a bike and is this a cub motor?

yah its was just brought up recently too

go with what u got listen to ur bike and how it performs or maybe sum1 will chime in and cheat for u

yah check for camers everywhere maybe at that little quicki stop maybe across the way if ther is one i used to ride my shee to work everyday on the and would littarally check on it every 15 min. i always put a lock throught the disc brake and sprocket to add the secure feeling i feel for yah man and will for sure keep an eye out

Thanks

can sumbody just post a pic of where/ how they mounted it thanks

i wanted it mounted in the front not rear is this possible ? and mine says its a closed circiut switch and when pulled it connects the wires i was gonna do it through the key switch but they need to be looped to run im lost........

can u guys post up a pic of how u installed it through the coil thanks

wsup with this Vacuum pump deal ive bled my front and rears and never had to use a vacuum

yah id teach her with the twist a dirtbike isnt a dirtbike without one but thats just me. Or just sell the dirtbike and get a quad once she hits sand with that moto its a whole diff. world also, takes alot of practice and wipeouts whether soft or hard to get comfortable and ride a dirtbike