dawarriorman

I have no clue how, but it does. My guess would be the shitty carb tops I have. If you grab the throttle cables and just jerk them around, that will generally do it. So probably me jerking the carbs around to get the box back into place and the boots back on.

Ok, well explain why you don't think it works then. I know you guys don't want to have wasted money on that tool. I took a set of 1/4" wide feeler guages. I set the idle with the quad running. Took the airbox off. Measured the height from the bottom of the slide to the carb. Averaged the 2, then set the idle screw for both carbs so they both have that same measurement (by averaging the 2 measurements, I kept the same idle speed). Now they both are starting off the exact same. Now I adjust the tops of the carbs until they hit at the same time, which can only happen if they hang in the air at the same place. They are synced.

Re read my post slowly (I specifically adressed them starting off at different heights). They start off at the same height (which is what I measured down to the thousandth). If they open at the same time, they close at the same time, then they are in sync. And putting the airbox back on knocks them out of sync everytime. I can hear it.

Buy a magnetic drain plug. Best thing I ever bought. I had the little e-clip that holds the kick starter on fall off and get chewed up. Went to change the oil, and nearly the whole thing was clinging to the drain plug. Not a bit of damage to anything else in the tranny (few marks here and there on the big gear on the clutch basket, but nothing bad)

If you make sure that the idle is set identical for both carbs (not hard if you have the right tools to measure with) then syncing the carbs is really simple. Listen when the carbs drop, if you can hear 2 distinct clicks from the slides hitting the stop, they aren't synced. When you hear one click, they both hit at the same time, and your carbs are now in sync. If you can't hear it well, take a screwdriver, put it on the crossover tube and put your ear to the handle. For you guys running pods, go for it. I still run an airbox though, and I have yet to be able to take it off or put it back on without knocking the carbs out of sync ever so slightly. That makes the tool useless for me.

Works steelers are not competition level shocks. Theres a reason nobody runs them in mx. Their other higher level shocks I won't speak for because I haven't ridden them. I've had steelers on my shee though. Now I have PEP. And yes there is a big difference, and I wouldn't get the steelers again. Elka is overrated IMO, everybody uses them, so everyone thinks they must be great. They make a good product, but most aren't custom made any more, and it seems like their valving is hit or miss. Axis, TCS both good shocks. And they did make a set of float shocks for the banshee, did they quit making them?

If temperatures over 350 damages the nikasil, then how do they handle the heat of combustion when the engine is running? That just doesn't make sense.

Ditto to the aircraft remover, just be careful with the stuff. Its caustic as hell. And you don't need all that high of a temp paint. The cylinders don't get THAT hot (they are full of water after all). I painted mine with duplicolor metalcast (500 degree paint, oil and gas resistant), and they still look great after more than a year.

Exactly. And if your engine isn't ported for the 4 mill, then get the engine ported. Without porting (done specifically for the stroker), the 4 mill is a waste.

Everybody else seems to have you covered, but I had to say one thing. Don't take it to that shop again if their idea of "fixing" is "it runs if you push start it"

21cc for me at 500 ft. Im running 152 lbs of compression. I would rebuild when I got that low, maybe thats just me though. I guess by fair you mean getting close to time for a rebuild? To the original poster, if you already have a cool head, and you have anything other than stock size (23 cc) domes, you might as well at least re-ring the pistons while you have the head off. Its only another 8 nuts to take off then reinstall.

Exactly. You shouldn't use a hammer on a bearing unless its going in the trash. Press it into place. A good bench vise can work (be careful though), although a press is better.

refrigerating the CO2 is completely unnecessary. Its liquid in the bottle, and once it goes through the reg and the pressure drops, its now a freezing cold gas all on its own. Restaurants and bars don't bother with it, half of them have the CO2 bottle sitting outside. Wouldn't be that convenient to haul a half ton bottle through the restaurant to get it back in the walk-in every time they fill it. As far as putting it on its side, if the regulator is on the bottle I wouldn't. Its probably a remote chance, but liquid CO2 can make its way through your average regulator, and once on the low pressure side, it would expand into gas and jack up the pressure pretty quick. If your regulator is attached to the bottle via line, and is elevated above the bottle, won't make a difference.

Its obvious, the intakes won't fit into the vforce cages until you cut the intake boots.

If I remember right, the center piece is aluminum. Thats generally the part of the wheel that bends anyways. You should be able to buy just that piece (id swap it out with the same piece on your other wheel to make sure thats it). You're right about the carbon fiber part though, it should break instead of permanently bending.

Cooling the oil is a side benefit, not the main purpose. Shocks use oil for damping right? Well, with just plain oil thats not under pressure, it can foam up after being ridden a while and getting warm. Oil won't compress, but foam will. Once you get to that point, you will blow through your travel, and the shocks start to feel springy. Aftermarket shocks without rezzies are gas charged, which helps keep that from happening, but since the high pressure gas is in the oil, it still can happen. When you have rezzies, the gas is separate from the oil. The oil can't foam up. Your shocks will stay more consistent for longer periods of time. The 2 side benefits are that there is more oil and larger surface areas which help cooling, and since oil is flowing in and out of the rezzie, you can have adjustable compression by controlling the flow rate of the oil in and out. Id never get another pair of shocks without rezzies. If you ride aggressively, you'll notice a difference.

Yeah, that would affect them, but it wouldn't add a wobble. The wheel bearings are in the hub, it spins on the spindle. If the spindle is bent, upwards for example (hard to bend the spindle any other way, tie-rods would bend first), then you'll simply end up with additional negative camber on that wheel. Id be willing to bet money its your wheel.

The ports will be off no matter what. Even though the plate will raise the cylinders to where the top of the piston is flush with the top of the cylinder, when the piston is at BDC there will still be a 4mm gap between the piston top and the bottom of the ports. It will still run, but you won't be gaining that much more power until the motor is ported properly.

A full size cheetah would serve you better than a cub for the simple fact that it has powervalves (wider, easier to ride powerband). After that, the size of the engine is really limited by your wallet (although an 18 mill probably wouldn't be terribly safe on a MX track).

As it was mentioned before, its hard to get off the gas quickly when you get in trouble. (look at the a-arms in my avatar, thats why I'll never have a twist on a quad).

If the wheel is wobbling, its the wheel or hub. Can't be the spindle, it doesn't rotate, and therefore can't wobble. Most likely the wheel, hit something hard and you torque the wheel (I did it to mine).

There, thats it. I think what confuses some people is that even with a longer swingarm (or a-arms even), you might be able to crank down the preload to get an acceptable ride height. And THAT fools people into thinking that they stiffened their shock.

There have been some stupid people on here before. You never know. (better too much information than not enough)

I like the clutch cover idea. But improve upon it. Big enough for lockups. Quick change cover for the clutch. Make the water pump accessible without taking the whole side case off (I don't know how, thats for you to figure out). O-rings instead of gaskets.

By shorter and taller you mean by adjusting preload right? (if you cut a spring, you change the spring rate). Assuming a linear rate spring (easiest to talk about) they have a certain spring rate (200 pounds per inch as an example). When the spring is uncompressed, it takes 200 lbs to compress that spring one inch. To compress it another inch, it takes another 200 lbs. So to compress that spring 2 inches takes 400 lbs. Now say that spring is on the shock. If it is compressed 1 inch due to preload, it will take 200 lbs of force before the shock will start to compress. If its compressed 3 inches due to preload it will take 600 lbs of force before the shock starts to move. Once it starts moving though, its still a 200lb/in spring. All the preload is doing is determing how far the shock is compressed when the machine is sitting still. With a heavier rider, you use more preload to achieve the same ride height. Therefore the shock will act the same for the heavier rider with more preload as it will for the lighter rider with less preload (this is only taking spring rate into account, not valving). That make any sense? Edit: as far as coil bind, It shouldn't happen as long as the people that made the shocks paid attention to what they were doing and used long enough springs.