sandman

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Just found one guys, thanks.

As far as your oil level goes, anytime you change your oil & fill it back up always start the bike & run it in gear on a jack or just around in the yard for a minute or so. I've noticed that it will read high until you run the bike & circulate the oil after an oil change. After that recheck it by NOT screwing in the dipstick.

^ What he said. Follow the manual that will come with the bike. WHY? Because your warranty may depend on it.

I'm looking for a factory thumb throttle lever however I don't need the housing nor do I need the cable or any of that, just the lever. Please let me know what you have & a price AFTER shipping. Zip 98541 Can pay through paypal. Thanks, Chad

DMCbanshee has definately got some pics. worthy of a banner right there thats fo sho. Here are a couple more I dug out of my collection.

I'm sure one of those will work well for you. Good luck.

1 action photo: 1 stillphoto:

I recently took mine off with a racheting vise clamp by using a deep socket (10mm I think).

When I ordered my 28's it was setup for the pipes I was going to be running among other things & came with a N68A needle. I started with that & I was very happy with that needle that is til I put the Trinity pipes on a couple of years ago.

As far as your needle goes it really comes down to the pipes you are running & I'm not sure what DG pipes like. When I ran FMF pipes I ran a N68A needle which worked very well, however when I switched to Trinity pipes they hated that needle & I had to get a JJH needle. JJH seems to be the norm from what I've read on here so I would reccomend a JJh & I would set it in the middle position. I would start with a 165 main due to your temp & the fact you have some porting even though we don't know to what extent your port work is. Always better to start rich than lean & since we have a lot of unknowns with your engine, pipes, etc... this would be safe I would think.

Thanks NYUK,. I had to get to it before you got her & started parting it out LOL!!! :happy:

Thanks, It will definately get pipes & a K&N filter with adapter plate to fix the yamaha engineering marvel they call an air filter attachment. May take the tors off someday but thats about it. I don't want it to extreme because it's mainly for logging roads & trails. No sand for this one.

I think that will actually buff out with the right polish.

Well I've been looking for about a month or so for a 'dirt' banshee & I finally found one. Couldn't be happier with what I found. It's a 2006 shee that has never seen dirt before in it's life so it's in great shape & has nice new dirt tires. I had to clean it up a bit as it looked like it had been on a trailer going down the freeway eating spray But it looks a little cleaner now that I took the super clean to it. It's 100% stock & came with rear sandstars, a truck ramp, & the guys helmet. It supposedly has 15 hours on it which I'm inclined to believe looking at the bike. And so far it seems to be getting along with the blue banshee. LOL! All in all not bad for $3900...what do you think?

Brand new on RMC website with similar thick wheels as I have are $283. So I would say you got a real good deal.

MarineNYC, I just bought a used 2006 banshee on monday 12-01-08 & it came with a set of sandstars mounted on rims that I really don't need as I have 3 sets of rear sandstar/sandskate 2 tires already for my other bikes. The bike & tires only had 15 hours on them & I would agree with the previous owners estimate as there are still nubbins on the paddles. (see pic.) Now for the wheels, I don't know what kind they are, as I originally thought they were ITP however I can't find an ITP logo or any other company name on them anywhere. The wheels are very thick as in similar to factory wheels. The wheels do have a couple of scuffs & scratches on them as I would rate them around a 9 out of 10. Tires: 20-11-10 wheels: machined alum 10" yamaha bolt pattern Price $150 plus shipping (I will get a shipping quote if your interested) paypal My ebay name is bansheefury if you would like to check my feedback rating. Chad

My wife did pay for my cylinder polishig for my b-day a couple weeks ago. She knows the way to my heart. My b-day present to myself was some of HJR porting. Should finally get to try it out this weekend.

Could be that the crankcase breather hose just came off the nipple that's in the lower portion of your water pump area. But most likely it is time for a case splitting session to replace those crank seals.

A little off topic here TRO73 but looking at your mods which are very similar to mine I was wondering what size jets your running in your Keihns? I still have to get my cylinders polished up before I put mine back together so I'm trying to get a feel for where I'll be on jetting when it comes time to start it up. How do you like the HJR dune hillshooter port as that is the one I just got done & can't wait to fire it up. Chad

Took mine off today as I'm getting ready to send my crank out to get it welded... it is a normal righty tighty, lefty loosey. Mine came off with an air gun. Best of luck.

When I had a clean up port & fmf pipes I was running toomey needles which seemed to work pretty well. I would not advise a stock needle with your mods. Just my .02

I went to Yamaha USA & of course it wasn't on there nor has it been since 2006, but I was looking at the new colors & features for the Raptor & 450. So I thought : I wonder what the new 2009 banshee looks like...so I went to Yamaha of Canada & there are 2009 models (Raptor, 450) but no banshee. Is Yamaha done making it completely? I currently own a Raptor 700R & a Banshee & there really is no substitute for the 2 stroke engine. I have really grown to love the light switch power characteristics of the banshee. Sad Day!!!!