sandman

I did not mention the stator as I just didn’t see how it could cause yellow plugs & the bike would actually run great with it until the new plugs turned yellow. Live & learn I guess. After owning one of these for 24 years I still run into shit I’ve never seen or heard of before. Good thing I’ve got you guys around here to keep me straight!

Well after doing some part swapping & testing In the dirt it looks like you guys were mostly right . It wasn’t the fuel at all & was electrical. It wasn’t the CDI however it was the stator. I’d recently put this aftermarket stator on which I never wanted to do but couldn’t get my hands on a oem one while out on a trip so had to settle. Still don’t know how a stator causes yellow spark plugs but after switching back to an oem one they’re not turning yellow & bike runs like it should...smooth!

I suppose it’s possible alright but would a Cdi cause the the plugs to turn yellow? I should mention also that when I dropped 2 brand new plugs in, the studder on the top end went away until the plugs turned yellow 30 to 45 minutes into the ride at which point it returned.

I recently got back from a trip to the dunes & while I was there I experienced something I’ve never seen before. My spark plugs electrodes started turning yellow. I’ve read that this can be caused by old race gas & that the yellowing is caused by lead deposits. This effects the spark & in my case caused the bike to run rough on the top end (misfires). Has anyone else experienced this before? The fuel I had bought a month before trip from a distributor close to me which is where I always buy it but have never seen this before. I don’t know how old the fuel was before I bought it however. My jetting is spot on & has been the same for about 14 years. I run 50/50 race gas/ 92 octane with a dune port, +4 timing & 28mm pwk’s.

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I just picked up some MR16 led bulbs & plugged them in to the trail tech sockets. No more dimming at idle.

These pics. show the fact. banshee clutch vs. the older clutch pack I saved from an older bike that I believe is out of a R6 streetbike if I'm not mistaken. Fiber plates are wider on the R6 clutch vs. the banshee clutch along with the steel plates being round instead of irregular shaped. Gonna throw this one in & run it til it gives up I guess.

No it's the factory original clutch. The bike was tore down completely after I brought it home from dealer for powder coating, along with the cases being split for the stock crank to be welded up porting. etc.. It's been in there for 9 years. Basket looks really good as far as notching is concerned as what little bit of notching there is you can hardly feel if at all.

I was down at the ore. Dunes a couple weeks ago & started experiencing some difficulty getting the bike into neutral otherwise it ran fine. I drained the oil & found a lot of alum. Shavings. Once I got home I took the clutch cover off & found that the inner most fiber plate had broke into quite a few pieces. This is the first time in 19 years of being a banshee owner that I have had this happen. Anyone know what causes this to happen or is it just "one of those things"? Bike is an 05 & has some port work, domes prob. In the low 60's for hp I'm guessing with factory clutch basket/plates & stiff spring set on press. Plate.

Bike has just been sold locally. Thank you

Bike is still available. I have never shipped a quad before so please do your homework. I know there are lots of options out there & rates for that matter. I'm guessing you would be looking at anywhere from $500 to $700. to go cross country.

Thanks guys. As far as shipping goes I can facilitate p/u or drop off at a transport carrier however all cost & shipping arrangements would be up to buyer. Thanks again

My 2006 banshee up for sale: http://www.atvtraderonline.com/listing/2006-Yamaha-Banshee-350-111614548

This tapered bearing carrier has bearings, seals, zerk fitting & spacer collar installed. The carrier & bearings/seals are used but have a lot of life in them as I kept them greased. Carrier is a RAD brand & is chrome plated. I have no more use for this as I have switched to a roundhouse swingarm. Also included are 2 chain adjusters & 2 bolts/nuts for securing the bearing carrier to the swingarm which are also chrome plated. Carrier has one flaw which is a small chip in the chrome. See pic. Price $110 shipped Payment via paypal or POSTAL money order. [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us [/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Maybe we'll see you down there as we will also be at the koa during the 3rd week of Aug. Not sure if you know Grpark20 'George' but he will be there also. I think we are going to have a fairly large group of us. I voted for sept as I will need to get down there again by the time sept rolls around & from a work standpoint that month would work better for me as I already have a bunch of time taken off for other trips.

First off you will need to bump up at least one size if not more by removing the snorkel as it does let in a lot more air. As far as the bike dying, the first place I would look is as you mentioned the TORS. One of my shees also an 06 was doing the same thing...dying as I would let off the throttle so I unplugged the tors unit (small black box mounted above the cylinder head next to ignition coil) & have not had a problem since. Problems with TORS are very common and are on the bike to begin with primarily for the lawyers. The TORS eliminator kits that you may have seen are to get rid of the clunky junk on top of the carb which I would also reccomend however simply unpluggign the unit will eliminate it 'electrically'

That's pretty much it to. We always stay at KOA but the ride to the dunes can be a bit hard on tires & usually a lil dusty. We always try to idle out to the sand & be respectful to everyone else but unfortunately there is always at least one a hole that has to pass you on the way out or in so you can eat their dust.

Thanks man. They are a lot of fun & sometimes a lil trouble to if you know what I mean.

Another one for Coos bay. Have banshee will travel.

Tires are still available. TTT

Price quote for you is $55 via UPS ground. Thank you.

These are Kenda Knarly's that have about 2 hours on them. They are 22-11-9 & are like new. They have no patches plugs or blemishes of any kind & they hold air perfectly. These are around $70 per tire new. I'm selling for $80 for both tires + shipping. Tires are located in Washington St. Payment via paypal only or cash if local. If interested but need a shipping quote leave me your zip & I'll get a quote for you. http://img713.images.../siedeview.jpg/ http://img830.images.../p1010003g.jpg/ http://img198.images...p1010004jv.jpg/ http://img228.images.../p1010002i.jpg/

The first place I would start is the needle. I run these same carbs on mine & when I had FMF Fatties (not SST) they liked N68A needles. I have since switched pipes & have gone to a JJH needle. You will be amazed at the difference the taper/length of a needle can make. My bike reacted the same way as yours when I had the wrong needle with the wrong pipe. You are not running the bowls dry with the mods you have. I've got the same carbs 172 jets to feed a ported motor & 19cc domes & stock pingel & fuel line & have never run the bowls dry. If a N68A needle does not work than try a cel or better yet ask a few builders. As far as your vents go, the top vent nipple should be a line that runs from one carb to another & for the one hitting your clutch arm you have 2 choices: 1. Get some Boss intakes which will raise & setback your carbs thus gettting that bottom vent off your clutch arm so you can put a hose on it. This may not work in conjunction with your airbox. 2. Remove bowl then CAREFULLY tap the existing hole to a 10/32 thread & put a screw in it with thread sealing tape wrapped around it. Then drill out the nipple on the side that is currently filled in & put your hose on it. These nipples lead into the same 'vent port'. Good luck, Chad

Thanks. Will do as I think I've got some yamabond 4 in the garage.