korndawg

I went with the Factory Effex seat cover. It has enough grip that you don't slide all over the seat, and it doesn't have the big ugly logo all over the seat. http://rockymountainatv.com/productDetail....09&navType=type

Ok, so I got some stupid questions.... I'm seeing alot of talk about batteries. Do you have to be running a battery to run these lights? Will these run on a stock stator? Where can I order them?

Where is he getting these cylinders? Last I knew, FMF didn't make cylinders.

I totally disagree with this project showing originality and creativity. Yes, it's true that it's probably one of very few banshees that have the YFZ plastic on it, but it still looks like 90% of the other non-banshees out there.

I just don't understand why you would want to do this to a banshee. It seems to me that since the raptor first came out, everybody that has come out with a new quad since has tried to come as close as possible to making it look like a raptor, without being an exact copy. It seems that there are very few new quads on the market that don't have the craptor-ish plastic, and fortunately the shee happens to be one of them. In my opinion, if you want to have a quad that really looks good, stick with the stock shee plastic, and try to do something original with it. Get original with cutting the plastic, get some unique airbrush work done, do a custom graphics kit, but don't jump on the craptor/YFZ/everything else bandwagon. I will admit, that the idea of putting the YFZ plastic on a shee is pretty original, and something I have never seen before, but in the end, it's going to be looking more and more like everything else. You will learn that if you want to come up with something that is going to turn heads, creativity and originality go a long way.

The money would probably be better to help you get your ride put back together, but it's always been my experience that a good punch in the mouth is much more satisfying.

The bike looks very nice. The only thing I don't really care much for is the lights. I'd go with a set of trailtechs instead of the hella's.

A little bit off subject maybe, but can someone please try to explain to me what the hell the appeal of having gold and diamonds on your teeth is????? Is it actually cool, and I'm just too old and too white to appreciate it??? A serious, or at least humorous response would be nice plz.

The price on those grills is very nice compared to alot of other places and they look nice, but one thing I'm wondering about that I didn't see in the auction is, are those grilles stainless steel or aluminum?

I'd start out about 320, and work from there.

What kind of swingarm are you running now? I've got a buddy who is running a -2 Lonestar swingarm, and is looking to get rid of it, and get a stock length swingarm that uses the round housing. Let me know, and we might be able to work out some kind of a trade.

You guys are terrible. You'd be amazed at how many people actually believe that a powerband is something you can go get at the local parts house. Some of them are just uninformed. Others are just dumbasses. I would like to assume that the guy who started this thread is the former rather than the latter.

I really haven't done much to it in the last few months due to limited funding. The only thing I've done to it is add a polished stainless grille. I should be getting my tax return back by the end of the month though, and am planning on putting an aftermarket axle, shocks, a-arms, and if I can come up with enough money, I'm gonna put a set of cheetah cubs on it.

I'm just looking to see who has the best price on Cheetah cub cylinders, and on 4mm stroker cranks.

Before you put the money out for a new chain, I'd just put the 14 on it, and see if it's going to work. If it's a stock length chain, then it should work fine, considering that 14/41 is what sprockets it came out with in the first place. If you go to a 15, then you may have to look at getting a new chain. It all really depends on how much adjustment you have now.

I'm just wondering if anyone has tried them, how they compare to stock, and also how they compare to some of the +2 +1 setups out there like the Sand Dragon wideload package, or the JD perfomance A-arms. Laeger is saying that you can use them with the stock shocks, which is something I have yet to see with any other extended a-arms, but these also aren't 1 forward. Also, since you can use them with the stock shocks, would it be safe to assume that you can set them up to run the YFZ 450 shocks?

GBC rear sand tires. I've tried the sand sharks and the sand devils, and they both suck ass. They don't deliver near as much power to the ground as the skat-traks that I'm running now, and the paddles got tore up in almost no time on a warrior that was bone stock except for the pipe. The one advantage of the GBC's is that they are fairly cheap compared to something like the skat-traks, but you are getting what you pay for.

If you're running a small bore shee, I would go with the small bore pipes. You will actually get better performance out of those than you will the big bore pipes. CPI's recommendation is not to run the big bore pipes on anything smaller than 440cc.

Bushings are cheap. I'd say stick with the J-arms. I just think it's kinda cool to still see some of the old 87's still running around.

From what I can tell, they are CPI drag pipes designed to be run on stuff that is 600cc+. As far as performance goes, I have absolutely no clue. My wallet isn't nearly thick enough to even think about building anything that big.

The craptor front plastics look like shit. The Maier race front look pretty good, and are probably about as cheap as you're gonna find for aftermarket plastic. Fullbore and Laker Custom also look pretty good though.

http://www.xgxracing.com/index2.html These guys have got some pretty good looking stuff.

I'm pretty sure that the new ones that you get from the dealer do not have a serial number on them. As far as registering them, I guess you would just use the serial number from the original frame, or you might see if you can use the numbers that are on the side of the motor.

You got any contact info for the place that you could post?

As far as the bearings on the steering stem and hubs, my thoughts on that are pretty much that if you already have it tore down that far, go ahead and replace them to save yourself some hassle down the road. The best piece of advice I can give you on bearings, is DO NOT go order new bearings from the dealer. The best thing you can do, is to take your old bearings to your nearest bearing supply, or industrial supply house, and have them measure them and find you some new ones that way. No, it won't have the Yamaha name on them, but sometimes you can get better quality, and it is almost always MUCH cheaper. As far as cleaning out bolt holes, a tap/die works great.