korndawg

ebay has the best prices I've found on CPI's. They're usually used pipes, but from what I've seen, you can get a set in excellent condition for around 500 shipped for the chrome in-frames.

I've been running 19cc's at 500 feet, and have had no problems.

I gotta go with "none of the above". So far, CPI's are about the best thing I've seen.

The cheapest I could find them was $112.99 from Rocky Mountain ATV. Trust me, it's money well spent. http://rockymountainatv.com/productDetail....88&navType=type I've got no clue what the part number on the replacement bulb is though.

I don't know about the ESR banshee cylinders, but I've got a couple of friends that are running them on their 250R's (one is a 310 and the other is a 330) and they are both pretty impressive.

Very impressive. If it runs half as good as it looks, it should be alot of fun. Only thing I think I might have done differently is hang on to the J-arms. It's kinda cool to see the old 87's running around that still have them.

You can run a half link, but I wouldn't suggest doing it for very long, since half-links are weak as hell, and tend to break. If I were you, I'd ditch the half-link as soon as the chain streches enough for it to fit without it.

Rocky Mountain ATV will ship 2 cycle oil. Their prices are pretty decent on it also.

I would strongly suggest getting a banshee. When you buy a banshee, you're not just buing something to ride, you are buying a very addictive hobby. From what I have seen, most banshee owners are constantly messing with new ways to get better performance and better looks out of their banshee, myself included. As far as the price involved with having to buy 2 of everything, it really isn't that bad when you compare it to the cost of stuff for the new 4 strokes that are coming out. One of the great advantages of the banshee, is that there is a large enough market for aftermarket parts, and so many different manufacturers for alot of those parts, that the prices have to stay fairly reasonable for those companies to remain competetive. On the downside, if you plan on getting a banshee, you had better plan on getting your hands dirty and working on it a little. Most of the time they really don't require that much work, but if you take it to the bike shop for every little thing, it will end up costing you a fortune. The best thing you can do is buy a clymer's manual for it, listen to the advice that you can get from alot of the guys on here, and if you have friends that can work on them, have them show you what they can.

From what I can tell, the K&N filter lid looks like it's kinda a waste. If it were up to me, I'd just toss the lid, and run a K&N filter with an outerwear.

die grinder works pretty good for cutting it, then hit it with a file or deburring tool to smooth it down.

Actually, when you're jetting a carb, you're not changing the needle out for another needle, but just changing the needle position. You will however be taking out and changing your main jet, and possibly your pilot jet.

You can usually find a pretty good deal on CPI's on ebay.

I'm looking to find out who has the best price on wheel/tire combo's on 20-10-10 9 paddle extreme haulers. The best price I've managed to find so far was $213 from rocky mountain atv.

If I'm not mistaken, it's a brighter bulb for the trailtech lights that will still run off of the stock stator.

I'm running these lights, and I love them. The difference between the trailtech lights and the stock lights is huge. Not only do the look great, but they are very bright. As far as the stator, you don't need to have it rewound. Just bolt them on, wire them into the stock wiring plug, set them where you want them, and go. As far as I'm concerned this is the best way to go on lighting, unless you want to get some massive baja light package.

I've been running the pro-design with 19cc domes on pump gas, and have no complaints.

I'm not sure about the cheetah cubs if you would still want to go with the small bore pipes. I had a buddy of mine that tried running the big bore pipes on a 410 big bore kit, and he never could get it to run right. He switched over to the small bore pipes, and the bike runs great. CPI's recommendation is that you don't run the big bore pipes on anything smaller than a 440, but if you want you can contact them at: [email protected] Tel. (801) 829-5877 Fax (801) 829-3023

From what I've seen, if you're running anything smaller than about a 440, I wouldn't mess with the big bore pipes.

I don't know of a web address where you can find them right now, but I know that direct drive has them for their lockups.

I can't remember the price, but you might check out the JD Performance A-arms. I've got friends who have ran them, and had very good luck with them, and they are fairly affordable compared to stuff like Lonestar.

Yeah, one of the things that didn't show up in the pictures due to lighting, and the fact that I suck as a photographer, is that the blue on the frame and the blue on the plastic are almost exactly the same dark shade of blue. Only real difference is the metal flake in the blue paint.

I'm a big fan of the 10 inch 9 paddle haulers. It would help alot though, if you'd tell us what kind of riding you plan on doing, and how much power you're planning on putting to the ground.

You might try checking ebay. I managed to find a set of CPI chrome in-frames that were in excellent shape for like $485 + shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Cpi...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-YAMAHA-...sspagenameZWDVW edited to ad a link to a set of them that are currently up for sale on ebay

To answer the question about what I've got into it, I bought the bike for $1000, which included what you see in the first 2 pictures, plus the motor, which had to be rebuilt. I put another $2500 into it, bringining the grand total to right around $3500.