ogre03

Do a search on it. Theres a few threads on it on here. Boonman dit it and here's a link to another one that is set up about the same. http://www.17bcars.com/fasracing/projects/.../snowmoshee.htm I'd just ask boonman if I were you.

My bike is basicly stock except for tr6's and a foam filter with no airbox. I was running 25 pilots, the clip in the 4th notch out of 6 (I think they are toomey needles) and 280 mains. I'm at about 500ft. The bike was jetted for about 65 -70 deg. but now I need to set it up for more like 0 deg. I threw some 310's in there and I was planning on going with 27.5's and maybe going up a notch. Does this sound about right? I have's got to ride it yet except around the parking lot in front of my house, I screwed my air screws pretty much all the way in and it still doesn't seem right, so I'm sure I need a larger pilot, but I'm wondering if a 27.5 will be enough or if I should go 30? Sorry if I'm rambling, just want to give as much info as I can.

I think it's her earings, they don't go with that dress

Are those all the mods you have? The pipes and the carbs? Because for the money of a new head you could / should have some port work done first. Eric Gorr does a "woods port" for around $250 that is suposed to make quite a difference in the lower rpm range if that's what you are looking for. There are quite a few threads on here that mention it if you do a search for it. As far as the cool head, If you talk to dlnoss on here about wanting a head he can help you out. Dome size will depend on your mods, elevation, fuel, but yes that can help you out with the lower rom power too. Just so you know if you talk to dlnoss about a head you should probably ask him about his heads (NOSS heads) rather than his competitor (cool head)

I don't have them, so I'm not your best source of info here, but from what I've heard they really don't do much of anything for you performance wise. Generally if it's cheap, than any HP gain you get from it will be to small to feel. There are exceptions, and I'm sure someone is going to tell you they are great but I'd say don't bother, put the money twards something more useful, like say an adjustable timing plate from ricky stator ($35 plus shipping) if you don't already have one.

Do you mean a ricky stator adjustable timing plate? Either way if you want ricky stator parts you should probably go to rickystator.com

Congrats on being the new header BigRed. It looks great. You're famous now!

evidently he's a bad som bitch if he's runnin 17 / 41's with a "mild port job... but then again, HE HAS THE VITO'S!!

Is it just me, or does it take everyone 25 minutes to figure out what crank67 is trying to say? And that's only on the posts that you can figure out.

haha that's good too!

I'm no expert on this, and I'm not sure how much compression your porting would offset. But I'd say he needs to change out his domes for some 20's or maybe 21's or start running race gas. I still think you need to look for an air leak too. Does the piston look melted or all chipped up?

Start with what dawarriorman and cadillacbanshee said... Definatly find out what octain fuel he is running with those 18cc domes, also Look for air leaks especially in the rubber boots connecting the carbs to the cylinders.

WTF? I'm confused as to the actual reason for this button. I read what they said it did, but is that something that was in high demand?

You probably ought to talk to a builder. Look up Jeff from F.A.S.T. (He goes by "fastoys" on here.) He will point you in the right direction, Pretty much everyone on here will agree that he is a very reputable builder.

That was deffinatly a good one

Looks like he didn't trust you opinion, Loco

He did a good job writing it. Has he done this before?

It's sort of like a joke, yet you preach the truth!

By ignition do you mean the key? Cause I'm fairly certain if you take out any part of your electrical system that actually causes ignition in your cylinders, you wouldn't be going anywhere. No ignition = no run

Hey, every pound counts!

another tip... Make sure you set the pickup magnet to the correct gap. I think Ricky Stator says as close as possible, but no closer than 20 thousandths. I'm sure you can search it on here and find the correct distance if you need to.

ha pretty good

If this whole trade is just because you want to sell your car for money, than it seems like taking the long way around to get where you want to go. How long have you been trying to sell the car? Is it just that you can't sell it and think maybe you'd have a better chance of getting rid of the quad / get more money out of the quad? It just seems like if you want to sell the car, trading it for something in hopes that you can sell that item for the exact same price as what you want for the car is a lot of work for no benefit, expecially if you have to wait till spring to dump the quad. Besides if you ride it all winter, when spring comes your not going to want to get rid of it

$191 with bracket sounds like a good deal to me. I think that is your best way to go.

I'm with loco on that one. Even in the spring your going to have a hell of a time finding someone who will pay over 5K for it because after 5 or so you are getting too close to the price of a new one. You said yourself it only books for $5250 from a dealer...