Hilarious

i'm assuming you got the axle nuts off and tring to get it out of the carrier? I had to get the sledge out and pound mine out of the carrier because it had siezed to the bearings. Spray it generously with pb blaster and put a block of wood up against the end of the axle, to protect the treads. And wack away with a BFH.

the best kind are the ones filled with Nitrous. back to the topic at hand......... Willie, I wouldnt knock the FMF Fatties. The ones on your friend's bike may not be tuned right. You did mention that the dealer mechanic did the work? I tried like hell to get bigger jets when I first put my fattys on and the dealer would not sell me bigger main jets because the felt that the stock jetting would be sufficient. I had to go else where to get bigger jets. I would not trust a dealer to tune my bike. It hit pretty hard with my fattys and no air box lid and vforce3 reeds&cages. Toomey T-5's seem to the the popluar, do-it-all pipe around here now. I've had the fattys, they did perform well on trails and general riding. I've had CPI's, definately an improvement over the fattys. They are considered a drag pipe though. The fitment on them was not as good as the fatties. And last I have shearers. I have not run them on stock ported cylinders so I do not know how they would perform. They do however perform well on ported applications but I would not reccomend them for a trail bike. those are the only pipes I have experience with. Maybe someone else with experience with other brands of pipes will chime in. there are a lot of different pipe makers. As others have said you can do a search and probably find what you are looking for then come back to this thread with a conclusion. :beer:

Keil, i am big time interested in that strut! You know how much? Will he sell it seperate from the other stuff? paypal?

Look at this guy's banshee. Dont know if it is someone here. I think its just quite peculiar looking. :geek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-DRA...3QQcmdZViewItem

What works even better is this little motion pro axle nut wrench that i bought. tapped on it a little with a hammer and got the nuts off. I believe its a 50mm wrench that fits the stock axle nuts. If the bearings in your carrier are bad and are stuck to your axle, look out. Getting the axle nuts off is one thing. Sometimes just getting the axle out of the carrier is another task. Good luck. :beer:

The only thing I dont like about your 'shee is that front bumper. But the rest of it looks really nice.

beater=play banshee. :teehee: Just eyeball it. dont sweat it, you wont be half assing it. An example of half assing would be doing a total rebuild with nice ported cylinders and going back with an unwelded stock crankshaft.

Thats great. My hat's off to you. nice banshee in your sig.

you have to eyeball it. Its not hard to do. just get it inbetween the best you can and hold the screw with your screwdriver and tighten the nut down and bend the lock tab back. Dont sweat it. :beer: Edit: All this talk lately has made me realize that I put my clutch cover on my beater without tightening the nut on the eccentric screw and bend the locktab back over it. LOL :yelrotflmao:

no sir. the noss head is (2) pieces. the little o rings go on after you put the first plate down. you will see the little grooves that they slide in. clear as mud? :laugh:

Ask him for the fat boy treat racing team discount next time you need something from him. :teehee:

Yessir. :thumbsup: How does your new engine run? You did build an RZ motor didnt you?

Did you go into the bottom end? Did you have the stator off the engine? If so, check the pickup gap between the pickup on the stator and one of the little nubs on the flywheel. Set it to .020 or .019. :shrug:

Well here's the pics I promised. You may have gotten it back togeather correctly but this may help someone else.

If you want, I can try to take some pics of mine when I get to the house. And post them up here. It will be after 6pm central tho. :geek: I have run my g force going on 3 years with no issue. Also have on on my 700. No issues there either. :shrug: Edit: On the newer 450's, 700's and 350's, they did put the locknut on the brake hub side. If i remember correctly: snap ring, then there's a collar that goes on, brake hub, slide axle in carrier through the right side, sprocket hub, locknut & retainer, and last but not least, the other snap ring. Then you tighen up the lock nut and there is a recess in it that encases the snap ring, compressing it and not allowing it to come out of the goove that it rests in.

I used that aircraft remover stuff on mine. No prep needed. Just need a warm day and a couple of hours of free time.

Have you got a kicker/idler gear?

Huh? I'm not talking about that thing in your avatar. :teehee: I thought you posted up a while back that you had gotten a roller somewheres and you were going to part it out or something. :shrug:

Is there any play in your carrier bearings? Are the nuts on your axle tight? I had an event similar to what you are describing and my axle was really loose in the carrier.

Dont you have a roller that you are parting out?

Will those fit stock spindles?

I like that bike a lot. :thumbsup: Would you mind throwing up a pic or (2)? How much were they if you dont mind me asking?

I also have to agree with the 700 being a really awesome trail machine. No jetting involved whatsoever. With the PC3 all you have to do is hook it up to a laptop to adjust the settings. Lol I have not ridden any of the new 450's but I have thrown my leg over a few of them. And me being a bigger fella, the 700 felt better suited. Performance wise, i cannot make any comparison without having ridden a 450. The 450s look like they would be better for those that like to go airborne. Lol I think they all are more user friendly than the good ole banshee. but thats what makes the banshee really fun to ride.

I need an entire thumb throttle thinggy, rear caliper and rear brake master cylinder and reservoir. :thumbsup: