Hilarious

this is nice too :thumbsup:

nice :thumbsup:

nice :thumbsup:

nice :thumbsup:

why limit yourself to just these (2) pipes?

that was my setup, spot on. mine was perfect with a 160 main, CEL needles with clip on 2nd groove from the blunt end.

nope, did a warrior and that was scary enough. when you supposed to get your engine back?

I dont have any of those things. So I still stand by the statement I made earlier. I assembled (built) my engine. :thumbsup:

i would get go ahead and get the cub cylinders. :thumbsup:

you need to be more specific. all i said was that i built my engine. :biggrin:

I dont see "yourself" as being an option on your poll so i'm not voting. I built my engine. :smile:

im not sure what the carburetors have to do with replacing the clutch cable but whatever..... :shrug: bansheewilder, replacing your clutch cable is pretty cut and dry. remove your old one and pay attention to which end of the cable goes where. there is a little retention clip on the top of the engine that has to be removed, it's directly under the carbs. loosen the adjuster on the clutch perch and install the new cable, then readjust when you are thru.

i believe cascade sells some rear fender brackets that supposedly provide additional support.

okay now im confused. are we talking 68X58 cub cylinder, or is he using a 68mm bore stock stroke cub with a stock length rod 4mill stroke crank? i was assuming he had the 68X58 because of the title of this thread. LOL

since we are talking 421 cub, which should be 68mm bore 58mm stroke, the long rod can use the blaster pistons. you dont need a spacer plate with the cub cylinders.

the cable ends should have some little rubber boots that fit snug over the tops of the adjusters. these keep the cable ends tightly attached to the adjusters and air tight. are you missing these?

will your throttle open your slides all the way? are you using the adjusters that came with the carbs or were you given a set of taller adjusters? sounds like you may need some taller adjusters.... :shrug:

no you dont need reed spacers. i'd suggest getting the timing plate and cool head before throwing down on the vforces. 21cc domes and advance the plate to +4.

i take it you are going to do the assembly? i would strongly suggest that before you start putting your bottom end together, slap your cases together and see if your cylinders will slide down over the top case studs. if they dont, the studs are way easier to tweak if you dont have your bottom end put together. LOL

post a pic if where it is leaking

ups musta drop kicked the box that i shipped my cases in and bent the cylinder mounting studs, which made installing my cylinders a pain in the butt. you didnt put DHL up which are scum in my opinion, the worst of them all. d-bags were too lazy to deliver a computer to me. the driver repeadedly lied and said that he had attempted to deliver my package for a solid week. never even set a foot in my driveway. and their customer support couldnt even tell me where my goddamn computer was. DHL (dick head losers) :teehee: :teehee: :teehee: :teehee:

motion pro has one for like, 250 bucks.... http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion...--56-MP-10.html

only thing missing is some them little chrome emblems that all the goober thugs have now that say what size diameter their wheels are. :yes: :yes: :no: :no: :yes: :no:

30 or 32mm not really sure. i took a trailer hitch ball and tightened the nut on the bottom of it and used that to screw mine out. :smile:

if it has a stock air filter your first order or business should be to replace with an aftermarket brand of your choice with some kind of pr-flow adapter plate or individual filters that fit each carb depending on your riding conditions. :thumbsup: