Shee-Male

I got my banshee brand new as a birthday gift and new nothing about break in on a two stroke, maybee I was to excited, so I rode the thing, screaming it up and down the feild, doin wheelies and power slides and riding some neighbouring trails. nedless to say this is the third season on the motor and it runs mint!!

Your gonna need to change your bearings, when you do dill a hole and thread it for a small bolt, then drill another hole and install a grease zerk, take the seal off the inside of the bearing, install them and pump the carrier full of grease. They'll last much longer this way! This is BenBB's set up, the man is pure genius!!

if you could post some pics that would be cool, do you think that drag shee shop would be inerested in swaping another set of tranny guts? thanks for all the suggestions and help by the way!

If its piped, larger pilots are needed and your gonna have to adjust the pilot screws start at 1 1/2 turns out then adjust you idel screws. Make sure the damb choke tude between the carbs is on aswell! Have fun

Any pis of befor & after?

Run it up to temp sortta puttin around, let it cool, do it again then ride it like normal, You'll need the rmp to seat the rings.

Can someone explain what this procedure is and what its all about?, dose anyone have any pics? and is it realy that nessesary?

Are you using a proper flywheel puller in the first place?, if not get one!

Look into a clark tank they have the little scoops on the side like the oem banshee plastics, and look much better. personally I can't stand the look of the large tanks, like where the fuel cap is raised.....yuk!!

make sure that choke tube between the carbs is on there.

make sure your wires are in good shape, eceltricity always takes the path of least resistance. Also make sure your carbs are in good working order.

normally you don't set up a whole machine to bore a jug .020 you just hone it out with "rughing stones" let them cool and finish them with the finer stone, lot less time. Remember you'll want 2-3 thou clearence if your running a forged piston.

I run irridium (BR8IEX) plugs in mine at 32:1 mix and I have never had a plug foul yet and I ride approximately 1000 miles or 120hrs+ a season and this is my second season, 2mounths in! Its all in your jetting!

I'd have to agree, I slill shift like a madman, but I don't find myself slippin the clutch more. With a 13 tooth it makes 1st gear useless and 2nd gear reely short!

Threr seen to be a number of people running the knarlys and there not that expensive at rocky mountain, personally I find them a little "balloon-y", I run GBC shredders and LOVE THEM! I heard about them in a magazine where a guy won the GNCC nationals on a pair so I thought I'd give them a try and so far so good, excellent tread life and only $40.99ea. @ rocky mountain. No matter what you choose they'll be better than stock!

Why you gotta be like that ? This is BansheeHQ raptor man

I live in Ontario and there is a Jerry intomassy? I'm sure I spelt it wrong and theres Jeff Muldrew @ M.E.T. His # is 905 372 3632, he's in Cobourg Ont. I rode a shee he ported and let me tell ya... IT WAS MAD!! Where in Ont are you?

Pretty much straight forward, put on your thumb lever/box run your cable and attach it to the slides, just make sure you sinc. your slides (make sure they lift up a the exact same time). Of course you'll have to change your grips. If you cluthch seems stiff or the cable is old or has any signs of wear go ahead and replace it. I should also mention that the stock cable is differant than the cable w/o TORS, if the cable has a little ball on the end its the wrong one, it should have almost like a small sleeve slightly bigger that the cable wich hooks into the slide under a clip, when you pull yuor slides out youll seewhat I mean. To adjust the slide hight, use the fitting and jam nut on the carb top.

Have them honed, a honed cylinder has a "cross hatch" to seat the rings, it should be a certin grit and the hatch has to have a specific angle, I wouldnt recomend doing it yourself you may taper it or remove to much material. I've senn it a hundred times ( I work in an engine machine shop), and it costs more to fix!

I forgot to mention that the stock tierods always bend @ the d-flat (the spot for your wrench) so do away with that.

I've bent 2 sets 1 set being the tusk, the problem is there small dia. My suggestion is what I did, I went to a local chassis shop (racecar chassis) and got a set made with spherical rod ends left and right thred and 5/8 chromoly steel tierods, they have mor adjustment then the stock ones and the rod enda are like 12$ ea. to replace, and if you manage to bend the tierods themselves you have other problems to worry about. Oh and ya the cost 110$ for the pair, and you use grade 8, 3/8 bolts. cheap and super strong.

Is this something you're gonna adapt to a exiting pipe?, if so I could prolably make a set for ya, you'd have to weld them on. I'm currently doing and rz conversion, are you using the rz trans?

wha?

Is the gearing spaced so high that it can't be corrected with sproket changes? do you trail ride your rz shee or race?

Hmmmm....I get heavy with a remainder of slow, re-ckeck your calculation LOL!! Banshee=mc2