trex banshee

if everything is bone stock i would go with some t-5s but if he has anything done internally i would have to say rockets for top end drag racing.

i need a stroker crank, preferably wiseco either a 4 mil or 7mil in good condition. won't be much of a problem to buy new bearings.

thanks RNBRAD

i will call them first cause there is no reason on completely restarting on a new engine when i just do drags for fun nothin too serious. i have been at there websitebefore but can't seem to remember it. Anyone know there site or a number i could call?

well its sounds like my best bet would be to try and sell and buy some cubs. my rockets wouldn't be enough for my ported trex motor. also if i port them from k&t i probably won't be able to ride dunes anymore will i?

that is what i have been told if i keep them that is where they will probably go. But if i can get them sold to buy some cubs that would be awesome.

i have thought about doing that because of the added power and technology of the cubs. how much you think i could get for my cylinders? how much do cub cylinders cost?

i have called a few places already but they are the big names that cost too much and don't do any better than someone on here. i will go to the website to get the number and give GRR a call.

sorry to hear about the ass kicking man but i was wondering what did you get thrown in jail for the first time. i didn't know that getting your ass kicked was against the law.

well that is what i thought but mine didn't go enough on the handle. the only change i did was buy a new cable because my old one was coming undone making it longer. so when i got a new one it was alot shorter(actually correct lenght) and the clutch was being disengaged all the time or really close to it. so i had to unscrew the pushrod just a little. mine was out of adjustment alot more than it should have been.

does it make a difference where i send them beacuase of them being t-rex that is why i was told about K&T. it doesn't really madder to me i just want a good job for a reasonable price.

ok the only place i ride my shee is at the dunes and the local dirt drags every other weekend. now i want to get my cylinders ported for more power. would getting a drag port take my dune riding away? or should i just get like a play port? i was told to go with K&T for the porting what do you guys think?

when you replace your clutch cable from a stretched or broken one the newer one is going to be shorter so you have to change your adjustment on the clutch boss. i had the same thing happen to me replaced the cable and i couldn't hardly pull in on the lever because the pushrod was screwed in to far for the longer cable.

damn that isn't cheap i'll just keep looking for a plated set

i would make shure that your bleeder is closed that might be where your fluid is comming from. yes there will be air in your line especially if you have fluid comming out you will have to bleed them.

well if it was being starved of fuel on the pilot (being lean) wouldn't it make the plugs white. mine are pretty black nice and rich but its not too rich its just where i like it just not idling. so with higher comp. i don't need the timing advanced so far? thanks for all the help.

i guess that does sound like a good idea unless we can find somebody that has dipped these specific arms before.

that seems a little to high. it will probably be cheaper to get ours plated won't it? do you know of any place to get them doen?

yeh i have got the idle screws up as high as they will go. i was told by someone else that they get really temper mental with high compression and won't idle.

any one have a set of stock a-arms that have been chrome plated or know of any place i can send mine to get plated? thanks

hey guys i need some help with my banshee. it idled fine last year never had to give it gas just kicked and fired. since then i have have advanced the timing 4 degrees, took 12 cc domes out and put 8.5cc's in, and went from running 91 to 111 octane gas, and sst's to rockets. now you have to give it a little gas for it to start and even when it is warm it will only idle for maybe 10 seconds. so i dropped from a 148 pilot to a 142 and not a whole lot of change. i am running 140 mains with 35 airstrykers.

i just used high temp rtv silicone. make sure your exhaust flanges are clean of all oil and the pipe. then apply a nice thick bead of silicone and put your pipe on and let it set for 24 hours atleast. i know its really tempting to fire your shee but if you don't want it to leak you will wait.

i am guessing you mean hydralic brakes? yes you will have to brake the system and then bleed them when reassembling but it isn't to bad. just make sure you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder. first, pull the lever and hold then unscrew the right bleeder just enough for it to breath then retighten it, then let off of the lever. do this over and over(in the meantime keeping an eye on your fluid level) until you get no air on that side then swith to the other side and repeat the steps. when you can't get anymore air then just pull the lever back and forth or more like a tapping motion and watch the bubbles come up this make take awhile but you will have really good brakes. also DO NOT SPILL ANY FLUID ON YOUR NEW PAINT BAKE FLUID LOVES TO EAT IT RIGHT OFF.

never mind sold pipes to sycoracer911. thanks anyways