trex banshee

Yes, i have bought them all at cc specialty. If you are the girl who answers the phone i have talked to you more than a few times. :biggrin: I cant remember the handpieces ive got exactly but the mc1 is one for sure. Also got the vise and other stuff as well, i plan on buying more stuff in the future when i graduate and get a job! lol the porting looks pretty good. A few things i would try is get a smaller round tree or ball shape 6"x1/4" bit and make the "curve" of your transfers better. Where you can see that you havent cut yet needs to be. Make it all on the same level if at all possible. If it were a set of cylinders i was porting i would polish the exhaust more, its up to you and looks ok but id spend some more time on it. What grit did you finish with?

dont port your cases unless you take it apart. All i use is the double cut carbides. They work awesome. The only single cut one i got is my alumi hog they call it i believe, serious cutting with this.

well cool, sounds like everything is coming together nicely. What i meant about my statement was it ran like crap, and by no means did i intend for that sound like i was predicting what yours is gonna do. It will run great. the first set i did i had no idea what i was doing i just raised the exhaust port too much and it made no power. I was 18 years old and experimenting! heck im 22 now and im still experimenting. :biggrin: but with positive results now.

be sure and let us know when your done, im excited for you. I remember about 4 years ago when i done mine.....boy did it run like ass!! lol, since then ive came a looong way, and so will you. It just takes time, time, time, patience and oh yeah money! :biggrin: Lets see those pics.

.040 is what i try to get all my motors towards. Well the important ones that is. If its a stocker i get them to .050-.055

I believe those are vitos pistons. They are for stock rod length. The exhaust side of the piston is stepped down to simulate a ported cylinder. It makes the exhaust port open sooner than with a normal piston but still keeping the transfer openings at the same time, this increases your blow down time.

I use carbide anyways, on all my cylinders. The trex cylinders just seem tougher if that makes since. Or more dense maybe is the word im looking for, the aluminum just doesnt want to shave away like that of OEM cylinders. Ive never actaully weighed them but just my bare cylinders id bet to weigh close to 20lbs!

who done the porting on the cylinders, they should be able to tell you what dome to run. That seems like big durations for an oem cylinder. If i were you id put it all together torque it all down and measure how much of the piston sticks out of the cylinder with your base gasket add whatever squish you are planning on running then have your domes made from that.

thanks for the compliments on the porting, i try and make it look the best as possible. many many hours in my trex cylinders. They suck cutting compared to oem cylinders. Ive yet to touch a cub or anything with nikasil though.

dont go boring your cylinders just to get displacement, your just wasting the life in them. Porting is very interesting, i got into it a little over 3 years ago and have done quite a few bikes here locally. Its pretty cool on how you can make two run completely different with just a little difference here and there in angles and heights and such.

yes those are additional exhaust ports. and yes they are my trex cylinders. they were first ported by someone else for the additional 4mm stroke with a spacer plate, i then got into the porting world a few years ago and ported them more myself. I could do nothing about the big transfer duration because of the way they were ported before, i will tell you though its big, too big for that fact. The triple exhaust is to acheive more exhaust time area without going over your safe exhaust port width. The durations on my cylinders is 202 ex 134 in

I think what he is saying is the previous owner wants his old top end back (cylinders, pistons, head) eveything. siccbanshee is asking if he runs a stock top end, which he called head, will it work. Now if thats your question, depends on how it was setup before, but more than likely yes. Some things will have to be changed back but it is possible..

how light are these arms? If they are like mine i would not be doing any trail riding with them. My are fireball which is different brand i know but still. Whats the O.D. of the tubing? Can you post some pictures?

for my exhaust ports when i polish them i do it in a way very similar to deckheight. Although i do not use premade sandpaper wheels, mainly cause i dont wanna buy them, :biggrin: . I just take one of my old 1/4" by 6" burrs that is dull and not used for cutting anymore and i wrap it with sandpaper. I start with usually 80 grit then on to 120, 200, 300, 400, and so on until i get the finish desired. Sometimes end at 800. here is a good pic of the stages. the one on the left is probably at the 400 grit stage the right one is 600-800 grit.

who done the port work? Your problem could be there.

Ive got a bike that ive built for a 300+ lb rider that is really strong down low. A lot will no believe me but it has a lot more low end than any 2 stroke ive ever ridden. Its a pretty aggresive dune type port with rockets and 28 pwk's. 15/41 gearing and stock yfz tires. 1-5 nuetral down tranny, +4 timing and 160psi for compression. I ported the cylinders with relatively high intake duration and low end favored angles. He can ride the bike anywhere he wants to at little sahara dunes.

I need a set of stock cylinders that are 65mm or smaller, the smaller the better though. They must be unported and in good shape. Got money ready to buy. Thanks, Thomas

go bigger and see what happens. After i ported my cousins bike with rockets, 28 pwks, +4 timing, 160psi...it wouldnt run on anything other than a 62 pilot.

lol you got us there, i agree with ya on that one. This particular bike however it was unneeded. It was a mess! :biggrin:

aint that the truth! :biggrin:

the lighting sucked was the problem and all the access wires and regulater, it wasnt being used anymore. I got rid of all of it and its back to normal now. Thanks for the help. :biggrin:

I believe it had been converted to DC at one time, i had just never seen that before and was confused as to what all the extra wiring and rectifier was for.

like loco said if the tranny is setup correctly you shouldnt have a problem with the forks. my cousins and brother have been runnin WCR duneables for over a year now with no problem what so ever. Ive ran WCR 1-6 standard override that is currently holding up very well for me now for almost 3 years. And yes about your question earlier that means you lose 6th gear. atleast on the 1-5 duneable, and i would also recommend getting the nuetral down option. now for the 1-5 duneable and manual 6th from WCR unless it has changed if you get in 6th gear you MUST come to a complete stop to downshift or it will blow up, any gear other than 6th you can ride it like a stock one. This is what my bro has. Just pay attention and you will be fine. Greg is a great guy and will stand behind his work.

FAST.....cant tell you if he is the cheapest but with the cutomer service you will get, its a good choice.

definitly go for it! You wont regret it. My cousin does basically the same riding you just explained and he has the 1-5 duneable with a lockout and its nice to ride, i love it. You will never want to have a stock tranny again.