spurdy

Depends on what kind of compression you want out of your cylinder. A higher compression dune motor will be torquier. Then you use high enough octane fuel to prevent detonation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a dune/trail port, the power would come on more evenly as you roll into the throttle and RPMs increase. If you did that on a drag port it would act lazy until it finally reach a high enough rpm range and then it would make power violently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The porting on a two stroke is like a cam on a 4 stroke. It controls your intake and exhaust durations. Different port timings will determine when the engine makes peak power. A dune port will cause the power to come on earlier and more evenly than a drag port that causes the power to come on at a higher rpm range and more aggressively. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Made DDQ's jumps look like kindergarten training camps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm afraid to drink with you cause you might decide to weld my flywheel together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^^this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't have to run 110 until I had 17cc domes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dammit man! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First, I don't know what carb your using. Second, there are no specs for carbs. That's why they are adjustable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

20cc domes will get you more compression and probably make a torquier motor. You'll need to run a high enough octane fuel to prevent deto. What kind of carbs? Keihin makes a 34 pj. I don't care for pj carbs. I prefer PWK carbs but to each his own. I think the Dyna has preset curves that you can select whenever you want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reed spacer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love my shearers over CPIs but would welcome the opportunity to try snipers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran both on my dune ported motor. It is an aggressive dune port geared more towards a high rpm motor but that's what it sounded like you wanted. But you can ask many on here how that motor runs for a duner in the trails and across the open dunes. I wouldn't change anything with it and likely couldn't build another like it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's a first gear launch and you can see the roost shift to second. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably gonna be Shearer or snipers. CPIs would contend here also. Shearers on my 4m dune port. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let's do it Sunday night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bring Bucky back! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well come on then! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have the best information to determine why this is happening right there at the carb. Any opinion any of us would have without seeing the issue is going to be based on less information than what you have. The tors units are assemblies that go on top of your carb caps. If they are not there then it has obviously been removed previously. Google images will show what the tors system looks like. As for the binding of the carb slide....you know how it functions, a cable, spring and the slide. Just take it apart and determine why it doesn't come up and slide down evenly. You have another one right next to it that works correctly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. Remember to wear on the piston also. That and check the service limits of the crank shaft and you should be good. I had a motor the still ran great, had decent compression but had 0.012" cylinder wall to piston clearance. So, good to check everything while you've got it apart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's not any indication of your clutch is good or bad. You need to look at your steels. If they are blue from heat, your clutch is probably no good. Severe heat will glaze your fibers. Some times they can be roughed up with sandpaper and you can get a bit more out of them. More importantly is the thickness of the steels and fibers. This is the life of your clutch. Your clymers manual will have the new thickness listed and minimum thickness listed for both. You can by clutches from any sponsor on here damn near. Rocky Mountain atv, cascade, a number of places. I seriously doubt that jetting has anything to do with your issue. Did I miss where you answered the question on gearing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

90 psi is getting low. You can re ring it if the bore is ok. Straight and parallel. The bore can be tapered, or ovaled. If this is the case you will need to over bore it to get a straight and parallel bore again and size your piston accordingly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is no way any of us can answer either of those. Do you need to do a top end rebuild? Do you have low compression? Yes- rebuild the top end. No- don't rebuild the top end. Can you do it? Are you mechanically capable- yes. Are you nOt mechanically capable- no. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk