spurdy

I have done a search on reed spacers and read everything on the forum. I'm using them for clearance purposes only with 35mm carbs. What difference is there in the position??? i.e. between reed and cylinder and between reed and carb. I have heard one for more top end and the other for bottom end. Does it make a difference? DOES ANYONE HAVE 1ST HAND EXPERIENCE??? I've been running them between reed and carb, what do you think?

Let me know what you think of the lightened flywheel. It is something I have not done yet. Mainly due to the fact that none of the guys that I ride with have one and I have not seen or experienced the effects of one. Just curious, so post after the install. How far do you plan on advancing the timing? Out.

http://g.msn.com/9SE/1?http://www.yamahaac...E=8&CS=AWP&SR=8

Dude....I don't think you are going to pull that bearing out! It is a machined press fit. Usually, unless something is wrong with the fit, something that is press fit into place will have to be driven out. I just rebuilt my tranny and when replaced the clutch needle bearing I drove it out with a pin punch and hammer. Of course this completely destroys the bearing but hey, we are replacing it any way, right.? By the way, does the bearing come out the top of the case or from the inside? I don't remember and was thinking it came out from the inside, which if this is the case, obvioulsy it is not going to come out without splitting the case. Good luck. SP

The transmission is a "constant mesh" transmission meaning that the gears have to be in motion to shift properly. If the gears are stationary the dogs will bind by nature of design. This is why rocking it back and forth allows the shift to happen as Chris has stated. If it shifts fine while in motion all is good, sit back, think cool thoughts, and ride. If not there is an issue.

I've always ran Weisco ProLites with no issues. I know there are other sets out there and you can buy Weisco piston that have been modified to be lighter etc. etc....I've stuck with the Pro Lites because I know they are reliable and would be afraid of a lighter piston failing prematurely. I guess it might depend on how much you enjoy wreching.

I am not 100% sure but I think you can go to .100" over without any mod to the head. Correct me if I am wrong. SP

Agreed....crankcase pressure leaking into the gearbox could do exactly that. The only place that could happen at is on the clutch side between the cases or between the crankshaft housing and the gearbox...correct?

You can buy a hole set of Metric allen wrenches for about $10-$12 and the M6 takes a 5mm hex key. A must have for a banshee owner. Out.

WOW!!! 180 bones to do your jugs? We get them done around here for $40 each cylinder and a top notch job. I guess everything is high on the west end. By the way I think Clymer calls out stock piston @ 64mm, so 66.5mm would be .100" over. Good luck with your bore. If it was me I'de find someone to send them to to get a good job done b4 I'de let someone have them that has been known to f them up. Just not worth the headacke. Later

Qty. 8 M6 x 1 x 30mm long Qty. 1 M6 x 1 x 40mm long Length does not include the Socket Head SP

The only thing I can think of is that it was just a fluke or the fluid level is to high for what ever reason. The oil coming out is not comtaminated with anything is it?

Unless I am missing something here I don't see how an o-ring in the head could allow coolant into the back 1/2 of the crankcase, it would leak into the jugs and front 1/2 causing it to probably run like shit since water is not combustable and does not compress well. If it leaked through the impeller seal into the clutch side of the case it could cause the crank case level to become too high and overflow. I am not sure what else would cause the crank case to overflow unless the bike has been upright or upside down allowing crank case oil into the far back chamber of the case where the over flow is located. Maybe someone else has another perspective on this, if so I'de like to hear it also. SP

Na, I checked and Noss and Pro Design heads use a round dome. Trinity has 5 lobes around their dome making it quite unique. I am afraid I am going to have to give them more money. I don't mind paying for them I just don't want to give any more of my money to them, they are bound to screw something even as simple as this up! Thanks for the rest of the info. If what you say is true about the 8 psi per cc and if I am still at 145 psi that would bump me to about 161 psi w/19s and 169 psi w/18s. Not sure what I want to do yet. SP

Hey guys, I posted earlier about changing from 21cc to 19cc domes. Sounds like anything much over 150 psi compression warrants a race fuel mixture. If I remember right I was at 145 psi with the 21s. I have a Trinity head and I really don't want to give them any more money. Does anyone know where I can get a set of domes. I found a set of 18s on e-bay for $15 + s&h but I am not sure I want to go with that high of compression. How much compression will 1cc difference make? I also notcied a post about having the domes cut to improve performance. I have never seen this. Can someone fill me in. Trinity offers a "turbo cut" on there domes to improve "squish" but I think it is about as effective as the "boost bottle". What to do? SP

Never seen this formula before. Works pretty slick. Calculation came out .2cm cubed off but this isn't rocket science either. Nice

.010" = .25mm / .040" = 1mm / .080 = 2mm Stock piston size is 64mm so .080" over is 66mm. I don't know for sure but I would think as long as you don't go to a big bore set up you can use a stock size dome. I think you can go to .100" over (2.5mm) before needing to resleeve. To find the cc volume of the cylinder take "(pie x R squared(piston)) x stroke" Piston = 6.4cm (64mm) /2 = 3.2cm 3.2cm x 3.2cm = 10.24cm x 3.14(pie) = 32.15cm. This is the cross section surface area of the jug. 32.15 x 5.4cm (54mm stroke) = 173.62 cm cubed for 1 cylinder 173.62 x 2 = 347.2 cm cubed for 2 cylinders with stock bore and stroke. Later

The only reason I replaced the seals was because I had the cases split for broken gear. I wouldn't reuse old seals or bearings. Not considering the cost of seals and bearings vs. the work to disassemble the case. You don't have to tear it down to get the clutch seal out. Just remove the clutch springs and the actuator shaft should slip out. You might have to rotate it back and forth because of the actuator arm at the bottom but this is easy to do with no tension on the push rod. SP

The outside demision of the shift shaft seal is 22mm not 25mm. The ID is 10mm. The width on mine was 6mm however I could not find a 6mm and had to use a 7mm. It sticks out a little but I have had no issues. I cut a chunk of 1/2 fuel line to use as a spacer between the shifter and the seal to make sure it does not come out. The clutch seal is ID 17mm x OD 28mm x W 6mm. Later

I had the same issues with my carrier. I went to a fine thread bolt because they handle vibration better. I drilled through the frame flange for clearance. I bolted through the carrier and the frame with a lock washer and nut using red locktight. It is not the easiest to take apart however it has never come loose during a ride

Shift shaft is 25 x 12 x 6 I think....not sure on the clutch shaft but can check when I get home.

I had the same thing happen. I said f the thread repair and tapped the hole to an M12 and have had no trouble since. It was cheaper than investing in the helicoil or thread insert kit.

I've got a boost bottle I'd let you have but I cut the end off to use it for a pen holder for my desk

Just my 2 cents. It is not worth it to go with someone close just because they are close. Shipping is not that much when all is considered. Don't rush into getting porting down without researching the builder. I sent my jugs from Kansas City to Trinity without checking into them enough and was very disappointed in performance and customer service. I followed everything they said to do along with about $4000 to have a bike that was a turd. It has taken almost 2 years and another $1500 to be happy with her. Just be thorough and don't rush into anything, you usually can't undo a bad port job. I hear very good things about Passion Racing and I think they are are of Tulsa, OK., I think the guys name is Jim. Good luck.

I recently broke a couple of teeth off in the transmission and locked her up. Amazing how fast that can bring you to a stop! Anyway, I have replaced the gears and have the cases and top end reassembled. I want to up the compression by changing domes in the head. I am currnetly running a 21 cc and was contemplating going with a 19 cc. Will I have to run a race fuel or a mixture or can I still run 91 pump gas without damage to engine? I want to have the option of using race fuel but I don't want to have to use it. Any suggestions?