macgillivary

well heres my setup thus far i got a motofast 2 into 1 intake with a 40mm lectron k&n no lid, lightened flywheel, +4 on the timing, modquad head with 21cc domes dynoport 2 into 1 pipe and a set of fmf gold series if i feel the need for more revs, ported stock reed cages, probably soon to change, and thats it, im running Av100ll in it can ya get away with 100 running 21cc domes and a +7?? might make a timing change but ya so not a whole lot to do besides mess with the cylinders i got all the bolt on goodies pretty much maybe somebody has a good suggestion for a motor with that setup on it but i really appreciate the input guys thanks alot

i had a problem like that on my blaster, never did figure it out, seemed like a dead rev range in 6th, couple chops of the throttle would get you through it though

is it possible to shave the stops a bit so that your tires do turn farther? not so far that you have issues but just a little bit most other bikes wheels turn alot farther then the banshees and id like mine to turn tighter instead of gettin off and pushing my bike backwards in the slow tight trails while the ex's are gone on me

hey i just got a stabilizer used off ebay anyways it was off a different bike, i thought the cartridges are all nhk i think thats the name, anyways it is that name so the cartridge itself is good so i thought just the mounting brackets were different i made mine mount up but i have a 2 into 1 pipe so i put one end on my steering stem, and attached the other end to the vertical part of the frame by the left hand side of my motor, gives it easy access, the dial is on the end attached to the frame is that right? makes it so i can adjust while riding, ugly postion but ease of access i tryed under the front fenders but just couldnt get the angles right at all, as long as i was right in having the dial end onthe frame, but the dial kept binding with my bumper just wanna know if its fine to have it mounted where i have it? thanks

i dont doubt that passion makes tons of power i live in Canada right, i debated using a template for a while, but nobody makes a lowend template and i really really dont wanna send my jugs across borders but i broke down and was thinkin gorr but if i could make an rz motor, parts on ebay, i dont mind receiving across borders i just hate sending them, powervalves would be sick rockets uh oh, after seeing what they made in the other thread that sucks, and top end pipe on a mx'er, no way i got some old school fmfs laying around here too,i heard those work with them? but ya gonna dent them a bit, thats no biggy with me there already dented up near the front

what are all the components you need to run the RZ jugs? and what did you do about a pipe setup, i mean fittin them to the bolts on rz jugs LOL drag bike on the track, yup you sure would get noticed

thanks guys i like the thought of the 4mm but we will have to see how the cash situation holds out gorr port would definatly be cheaper

alright so over the winter or next rebuild i wanna make my motor more for mx i got all the bolt ons i need its an open class so anything goes here, sucks though pros race against ams, just a quad class no serperate classes anyways would a 4mm or some stroker be suitable having never riden one or know what kind of power they produce i really have no clue possibly a big bore, not cubs but something a bit more rideable, i have no clue about the trex motor but they have powervalves that would beef up the bottem end, or do cubs have powervalves too? myself i didnt think they did, but cubs are more for draggin, i never seen them or trex cylinders on a trail or mx bike or would the best setup be stock stroke stock jugs and going with an eric gorr port thanks i really appreciate it and remember its an open class so anything goes here, no restrictions

myself i would say tors unplug the connectors on the carbs, and the black box attached to your frame above the left cylinder i forget if you have to unplug the parking brake one too to completly disconnect it

keep on bleedin em id say i had to bleed mine i bet a good 30 times before i got any brake pressure

ya i was good to change it often, I wanted to try something different i suggest nobody ever use that tech2000 80-90, it was shit man looked like a big bucket of foamy diarehea when it came out

i went to a plumpin shop and asked for red rubber, super cheap maybe that is heater hose? its just a red rubber hose thats made for high temp

well i went and got some ATF type F drained out that tech2000 80-90, sorry i thought it was 85 and not a problem now that stuff was crap man, when i drained it, it looked like it had been in a motor for about 2 years after about 20 min of just getting it warmed up, was all foamy and shitty color looking too note to everybody on here dont use tech2000 80-90, crap oil, walmart special my ass i like the ATF though, seems nice and thin and very clean thanks alot for your guys help

no not a drop of water in the old oil, it was a nice golden color still which makes me think that it is this kind of the new oil itself, because seriously it is very strange that just from changing oil that a seal would go just like that, im gonna check my coolant level there, and ya try out your idea loco if its the oil itself i highly warn everyone not to use tech2000 85-90 pulling the clutch cover is my last resort, really dont feel like doing that

ya thankyou i think what im going to do first is drain it and change back to a light oil that i trust could possibly be something with that oil, seems very strange that when i changed it that this all of a sudden happened, nothing was wrong with the other oil when i took it out im sure ill notice wheni change it too, if it comes out really watery looking i got antifreeze in there will any type F work, ive seen ATF type F, and another brand, just wondering if some have any friction crap in them?

alright thanks ill have to check that out tomorrow heres also what i noticed the bike cooled down, checked it and it looked normal, just like any oil started it back up, its fine looks normal,but then as soon as the bike hits around 160degrees is when the fluid seems to be turning into this white fizzy stuff wonder if this helps in your suggestions, maybe narrow it down a bit more the bottle is still full of antifreeze, have to take a peek in the rad tomorrow too, if its down then i am probably gettin antifreeze in there side case oring i dont know what that is, guessing its the whole clutch cover? or is it the cover with the 3 screws? thanks guys

ok i changed my tranny fluid and switched brands i went from yamalube to tech2000 85-90 i beleive it was, whatever tech2000 makes, a heavier fluid seems to be what everyone is running on here so i wanted to try it anyways after i changed it i ran the bike for about 10 min, puttin around on the street, checked the fluid, and its like a bubblin fizzy white man its got me freaked out cuz i dont think it should look like that but to feel it, like rub on your fingers, it still feels like oil, no grit in it, and its not hot which bubbling i thought it would of been hot, just warm could there possibly have been some yamalube left and they took a bad reaction with each other? man im freaked help me out guys thanks

ya man there is a connector on your parking brake unplug it mine sounded the exact same after somebody else rebuilt it for me i spend about a week pretty much tore eeeeeeeeverything apart and it was just the damn tors if you hold it in that bog it will die right? unplug that bitch and i bet it will rev sky high again

put a piece of hardwood on it and whack it with a hammer needs some muscle to get that off sometimes soft wood will just shatter into bits or actually anything that will spread out the blow of a hammer, you just want to avoid bending something

yup they do i have a modquad head and i just buy the pro design kits

just keep the K&N oiled properly and it will catch anything that comes at it

ya i was looking more into a pep or denton one, scotts is just too much cash for me but i also heard that they wont work with a 2 into 1 pipe because of where the pipe sits in the middle anybody have any pics of a stabalizer mounted on there bike? a picture could tell me if it would interfer thanks

just wondering what you mx'ers are running for gearing im in the process of swtching my shee from a trailer to an mx'er sprocket changes are in the future i would say so im just curious im still running stock at the moment also i have a 2 into 1 pipe on my bike, i heard you cant run a steering stabalizer on the shee if you have that kind of pipe cuz thats where the stabalizer sits, just wondering if thats true thanks

how much water wetter do you put in distilled water and how much distilled water do you use? i deliver for a water and ice company so i get all the free distilled water i want i went by the recomondations on the bottle seems to work but i only installed the temp gauge after i starting using water wetter and distilled so i have no clue how it compares to prestone

ok so i posted but i got no replys heres a maybe better question im running 35mm mikunis on stock cylinders, its overkill i konw i just got a good deal on them so im switching to running a single one of these carbs do mikuni jets work like since im switching from duals to a single that i doulbe the size of the main and pilot? thanks