macgillivary

your compression would go down because your destroying your engine air leaks i would say

im thinkin so, the orings arent split but it kinda looks like oil although i had kicked it with my rad cap off before i pulled it all apart and no bubbles

alright so i started pulling pieces off the bike today, had a broken o ring to fix, it was leakin coolant, so i decided im gonna take my cylinders off to get ported too anyways when i pulled the head off, the outer portion of the domes like where the coolant is, closest to the exhaust side was black, the part of the dome thats on the motor looked fine, a goldenish color, what would cause this? my bike was a bit lean lately, maybe it got hot? it never went up over 200 degrees though thanks

you got it, more compression means your motor cant spin over as fast not sure how much you lose on revs but you do

thanks guys i was hoping i could run the +7 but didnt expect the 17cc domes to work, im setting my bike up for mx, i thought all porting lowered your compression but i guess not woah i dont understand aviation fuel i guess it can range from 99.5 to 130 depending on how lean/rich you are?

hey im at sea level, i have 21cc domes with 145psi, gonna get some port work done so im guessing i will get a lower compression number, currently running +4 timing with a 70%pump and 30%AV gas anyways can i run av100ll straight with 21cc domes and a +7 instead of +4 after the port work????? orrrrrr i highly doubt i can do this think i need something like a 110 fuel but i do have a set of 17cc domes dont have a compression spec though at sea level it would be like 200+ probably, is it possible to run those with like a +2 or +4 on AV100LL????? now heres the dumb question, is AV100 actually 100 octane or what? im assuming it is but i really wasnt sure shit i probably just shoulda pm'ed dlnoss hes the man for this thanks

www.ericgorr.com

i made a topic of this and passion and gorr were the top picks gorr is cheaper i believe

how much were you looking to get?

maybe its just the pipe itself i got a 2 into 1 pipe and dual fmfs on slow trails my temp gauge can get close to 200 with the 2 into 1, but the fmfs always stay at the normal temp around 160-170, rarely will go up to 180 my jetting is on too i just play with my lectron and its done so maybe just these pipes are hotter but then again im measuring coolant not exhaust

ahahahah nice i did mine, just open em up but not so much that the reeds dont cover your knew holes

ok well im in the middle of midterms so i dont have time to go mess with it right away but i know that ya the tire shop didnt use enought sealer cuz my back right tire goes flat over a day or 2 it shouldnt be a bent axle cuz when i replaced it with a brand new axle it was still happening the axle bearings are new i replaced them this year castle nuts? those the ones on your hubs? ya there tight im gonna guess its just the wheels out of balance hopefully ill block it up later on tonight maybe and see what i see

bad throttle cable? or if you have stock carbs with stock tors possibly the rubber piece where the tors goes in is worn and water is getting in their making the slides stick? i have never had to fix that though so im unsure of a fix on that rubber piece

HAHAHAHA bansheehq infomercials

hey i just wanna give a thanks to bansheehq and its members this site rules , i know when i get home from class or work i start wearing out the refresh button on this site just wanna thank all you guys that have helped me out gave me suggestions, im new but posted quite a few topics lately this site made me from scared to jet my bike to wanting to build my own motor pretty much if it wasnt for bansheehq my bike would be sitting in the shed completly stock thanks guys for all the help you gave me and free tips

actually it doesnt shake it violently shakes, like makes you not wanna run it that fast cuz its hard on your body, the harder the surface the more harsh it seems, pavement seems to be the worst something is bent for sure but it has been doin it for a couple years actually i noticed it after the first winter i bought it, i didnt bother cuz its only at high speeds and not that often i get a chance to open her up, at first i thought it was a flat spot in a tire from goin flat and sitting over winter, nope cuz i changed em and its still doin it, thought it mita been a rim, nope cuz i changed them so thought it might be an axle, nope changed that and wasnt it, bent swinger nope changed that, the only thing left is the hub, think possibly my shaking is from bent hub studs or a bent hub somehow? im glad i wanted all these parts instead of spendin all that money to fix it cuz if i spent that much on trying to fix a high speed shake id be pissed, anybody else have a problem like this before? thanks P.S. its definatly feels and looks like its in the back of the bike cuz you watch the tires shaking when your wide open

thats what i was thinking too

the current stem hole, turn that stem around so that its inside your rim is what he meant you gotta drill a hole and put another stem in the opposite side of your rim

well will bolt right up is a ims 4.0 but do you really only need 0.8 of a gallon more? just stap a small gas jug to your grab bar if thats the case now if you want to slice the sides off your front fenders get the ims 5.6 gal tank, i got one and i can go all day its nuts if i were to go buy another tank though i would of bought the clarke 5.5 gal tank, much much nicer looking then the ims tank, get the clarke tank

thanks alot for the input, woah i was going to sell it for like 4500 in canadian funds, 4000 grand U.S is more then that but i had my hopes up glad i caught it though was a mean ebay scam, buddy was selling it for 2600 shipped to my door,heres the link to what he was sellling, nice bike eh, so glad i caught on http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 all and all im disapointed but glad i get to keep my shee was gonna be sad having to part with it, i couldnt afford both

the rubber piece connecting the 2?? just go to a plumbing shop and get some red rubber, heat resistant, youll pay under $3 for what ya need plus 2 hose clamps for each side, not the sexiest but does the trick

considering selling my banshee , seen a sick mx yfz450 and want it, my banshee is close to mildly mx ready but i can get a sweet sweet deal on this yfz so how much do you think my shee is worth in U.S funds 2003 banshee, blue, ims dessert tank, spider web grill, 2 sets of race cut fronts, renthal bars, tusk tether switch, temp gauge, DG nerfs back end: 8 inch blue labels with worn out holeshots but a brand new pair of turf tamers waiting to get mounted, +4 axle, stock axle, -2 stock swinger, also a stock swinger, stock shock front end: nothing yet a arms and shocks were in the works but wont purchase if i get this, just razrs on stock rims motor:K&N, motofast 2 into 1 with a 40mm lectron, modquad head with 21 and 17cc domes, ligthened flywheel, adjustable timing plate set at +4, stock head also, 20 hours on new topend at 0.02 over with wisecos, brand new crank and rods with rebuild, dynoport 2 into 1 pipe plus fmf gold series pipes with silencers i think thats it, i would put it in good shape, everything is nice and tight on it, no bad bearings or anything, sorry about the no pics thanks

i would say 280, im at sea level, i had fmf pipes, K&N with the snorkel removed still had the lid, that was back when but the jetting was spot on a nice golden brown, no rich or lean bogs just plain ran good

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=macgillivary there ya go man i had started a topic about it a little while back, good explanations in there with pictures

thanks man, i wasnt sure most people i seen on here i thought mounted them under the front fenders by the bumper bracket any interference if you run the dual pipes?