2003LimitedBanshee

I think you knew what you were trying to say, but you flipped it. The stiffness you feel is due to the compression of the spring. Nonetheless, by weakening the spring you feel less resistance on compression, but this is also why you have to watch reducing resistance too much as it could potentially make the slides slower to close. :thumbsup:

I didn't realize Twister was in Oregon... anyway, I think I'll probably just send it out to Jeff. I was taking the impatient route and wanting it now, now, now, but in reality it is going to take me several weeks to port my cylinders. So, if I do my degreeing, mark everything up and then pull the crank to send off to Jeff he'll have it done before I get done porting anyway. In case I do get impatient, I'll keep the rest in mind though. Thanks for the replies!

A buddy of mine runs more or less the same bike as me, minus timing and head, and he runs an 8 paddle and loves it. He does outweigh me by about 25 lbs though too (I run 190 more or less). I think you'll find you can run lower air pressure with the Haulers. I'm not a fan of the V-style paddles personally, and you'll definitely get much better pull out of the Haulers when dragging.

Well, I've been told many a time that my bike is over-paddled, but here goes anyway... I run a 9 paddle hauler on my bike (similar mods to this point, until I finish up my cylinders!) and absolutely love it. The sand here in Oregon I have been told is typically not nearly as powdery as the sand at Glamis or LS, so I would assume you should be able to handle that paddle as well or better. Now, let the "you're killing the bike with that paddle" commenting begin, but I will stand by my 9 paddles. Keep in mind you can do a lot with air pressure. I usually run 4-5 lbs, but find at 5.5 or so, I have too much wheel spin, so...

Hey all, I'm looking to see if anyone knows of a shop capable of trueing/welding my stock crank up, in the souther oregon area. If at all possible I was hoping to find something within driving distance. Anyone know if CP Racing does this? I have a friend that is an amazing TIG welder, legitimately builds NHRA chassis out of his own shop, so I know he is more than capable of welding it up, but I still need to have it trued. A buddy of mine runs a machine shop, but I wasn't sure that trueing up a Banshee crank could be done using standard automotive tooling... thanks! If not, I'll probably send it off to Jeff, as I think I will be hooking up with him for many of the rest of the parts to complete my build.

So after reading the posts I have to wonder where the general opinions fall as far as the break over point for switching to a forged piston such as Wiseco. I've always heard nothing but good about Wiseco and was planning/recommended to run them in my bike once I finish porting my cylinders, but now I'm wondering. Where are our resident builders to weigh in on this? Are we talking cast on unported (ie. lowere RPM capability) bikes and forged on ported (higher RPM/strung) bikes???

Nuff said...

My suggestion would be to keep your eyes out on eBay. I just snagged a virgin set right after it was listed (luck) for $180 Buy It Now and $15 shipping.

BigRed, you running a set of Shearer's on your new bike? So about the head to pipe clearance, are you aware that they hit the head currently? I really want to switch, but I'm not big on the idea of shimming. Either way sounds like a real fair price! edit: Forgot the main point of my post... I'm sure if you do you're probably hanging on to them, but you don't have an unstamped set laying around? Basically no way to get unstamped anymore is there?

They're calling on my 20cc domes from my sig. No the jugs haven't been decked, but yes it is on a stock port. Plus, porting reduces compression in pretty much all porting styles, so porting wouldn't increase compression. Like I said, pay for the flight and you can kick it yourself, heck bring your own gauge if my Snap-On is too shitty for your likings. The only thing I haven't done is personally cc domes. So unless dlnoss engraved the wrong cc into the domes when I originally purchased the head/dome combo it has 20cc's.

Well you're throwing the bull shit flag on my SNAP-ON compression gauge. You pay for the flight and I'll let you kick, test all you want. The simply fact is that it's on. At 2000' ft (my home) it kicks 170-175 in each cylinder day in and day out. Maybe if I was using some POS Harbor Freight crap like a lot of people do I would agree with you, but since I don't... I can post some pics of the readings if you'd like in short time?

In regards to the flywheel, I wouldn't use the impact gun if it was me, but I know a lot of people do. It is definitely not a technical tool in the least. I bought the Motion Pro Clutch tool which has dowls for holding the flywheel while it is being torqued. As far as tightening the spark plugs I have an adjustable angle Snap-On ratchet that I use. Torque on the spark plugs is "about that" as we say. Basically once you've done enough spark plugs you can just feel when it is right. I've honestly only torqued spark plugs on one car, our blown '67 Nova, since you can never be too specific. But for everything else it gets the mental torque setting, but it has never failed me before.

It is of course going to change how the bike reacts in the air. But, as long as you stay away from the "Drag Style" swingers (usually oval or smaller diameter tubing for weight) you should be fine. It will make pulling wheelies a bit more difficult, or controlled depending on how you look at it. I've been running 190-192 psi in my bike for almost a year, on an unwelded (soon to be welded though!!) crank with no problems. Although the sand can create some pretty hard load, the cranks seem to hold a little longer with the higher compression due to the give that the sand provides. I wouldn't recommend it on an asphalt bike.

Instructions for potheads: Step away from the Banshee. You're never gonna live that thread down jack. There is a link in a thread just a few down to Toomey's website that has detailed instructions on the install.

Wherever you are looking at VF3's stop! You can get them from Jeff at F.A.S.T. for just over $200 normally. He had them at $190 or something crazy around Christmas I believe. VF3's are totally different reed cage and carbon fiber petals. An hour should be do-able but it depends on your mechanical comfort level. Usually you do not have to rejet, possibly, or possibly a needle adjustment. It's always a great idea to check jetting after any engine modification even if the jetting should be unaffected.

Dangm you beat me to everything. I love how many people say remove the "rev limiter". As the joke goes the only rev limiter on a stock bike is the stock pipes.

That's what I did, fool proof! The only thing you will likely find is that you will almost certainly have to file the boss down a bit farther than it takes to get it flush. I believe the Toomey instructions tell you to go to 20mm or something, but I ended up taking mine down an additional 2-3mm over whatever the Toomey number says. I found it necessary, and I've heard of many others who have also, to take this extra material off so that I could get the adjustability out of the idle screws. If you even have basic mechanical skills it is no sweat.

As mentioned they don't they're a totally different design. A word to the wise, as I've run both over the years. I had the Boyesen's for quite some time, thought they made a difference and I believe they did make a small difference, but nowhere near the difference as when I switched to VF3's.

As bright and shiny and sparkly as the paint is, I do admire their ambition, but the workmanship appears to need some work. If you look at the picture from the back, it is swayed to the left of the picture. I'm not sure what they've got going on with the front plastics bars etc. but not as clean as I would have hoped. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying it is a heap, but not up to the level of workmanship I expect. It would be quite difficult to fab, so I'm not saying they did a horrible job, just looks to need a bit more planning, remeasuring etc. before they broke out the welder.

Like I put in the original thread, the hookup was super easy. If you have an '03 or later it will have the brake light and yes it does work great. The hardest part was creating a clean mounting bracket, but I was able to draw out a design, cut and fab all in one evening.

It's not an R1 or R6 taillight, but here is a link to an older BHQ post from when I converted to an '06 YFZ 450 taillight with a few external lics to pictures. I fabbed the bracket out of some aluminum I had laying around. I set the taillight a little further under the bike and a bit tighter to the plastics. Just reused the rubber mounts from the old taillight bracket. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...Z+450+Taillight I've been running it for right about a year and I love it. It's amazing how many people will stop me and say, "That taillight is cool as hell!" It's also nice and bright for tighter sand trail riding at night; really grabs the attention.

Not sure about the rest of the post, but I think this is the best part by far and sums it all up. :beer: edit: almost forgot, can someone please DELETE this, PLEASE! It's got no place here

If you're referring to studs they aren't bad. If you're referring to heads then the NOSS has to be the easiest in my opinion. As mentioned, they also look the best to me. Haven't picked through the P.D. heads that much, but the engineering in the NOSS head is top notch! Also as mentioned, dlnoss is a sponsor of the site, and they are very nice to deal with. I absolutely love mine!

Not sure that I completely understand what you are asking, but... If you are replacing them with stock Yamaha replacements you need to find out what side makes for the flushest mounting to the reed block. The best possible scenario is one where you can flip the reeds one way or the other so that they "seal" to the reed block. If you can't get one to totally seal, try swapping it to another side or reed block. In theory you should be able to get them to all mount flush. I hope this is what you were talking about.

You will notice a difference with these mods without a doubt. Truly, your biggest limitation will be staying within the pump gas range. If you don't mind running race gas (which it sounds like you've already decided against) you can make a much more noticeable change by jacking the compression up considerably higher. But, you should like those changes even when staying within pump gas.