H300F

Did you buy these carbs off of bansheeboy95 on ebay? Is so I have these carbs and they are nothin but trouble.

good idea. let me give it a try. ok, wont start on either of the cylinders, only kicks over for a second. however it is revving up on both cylinders, both are pushing out the same amount of smoke and exhuast pressure. i did notice that if you catch it and shut it off before it really winds up it will shut off immediately. if you let it rev for a few more seconds up higher and then try to shut it off it has a delay to takes a few seconds to kick off. if you let it rev up high for a long amount of time it likes to keep running.

I have read that you can cut everything out that is TORS wires. On mine I didnt in fear I would cut something wrong out. I did take the wire out of the thumb throttle and the box on the lift side of the frame above the cyl's.

Well I put the same main jets back in that it prevousely ran fine with and no change at all. And with the stock carbs it does not have any of this, it runs perfect, and im using the same boots, and the motor is only about a 1/2 year old. And the caps have 2 screws to hold them down so its impossible to put them on wrong or loose.

I have rz forks and drum and they arent as good as I thought. I did switch around the shims, which puts the gears closer to the engagers or whatever you call them for quicker shifts. I did however blow many teeth off of 3rd gear on the street one day after shifting into it wide open, after about a month of doing that. I then put the shims in the stock locations and have no problems. your call

Oh, and yes it seems like an airleak. especially when the motor gets really wound up before I kill it, it sounds very weak and powerless like its lean. But where is the leak, I cant find it!!! And after killing it and checking the plugs, they look normal, no white.

Hey, no these dont have choke tubes on them. They are similar to stock carbs though, D-slides, mains, pilots, airscrews on the backside of the carbs, screw down caps instead of threaded carb caps, 2 chokes, and the bowls have a plug to take the main jets out. And I am using the same boots as stock carbs, band clamps, fuel lines, same everything. Yeah I went over everything when I cleaned the them. Nothing seemed out of place.

I have the Keihin 30mm carbs on my banshee. They worked fine for 2 or 3 months. One day after riding for 20 mins I decided to put smaller main jets in since it was running alittle rich on top. I went from 180s to 170s. After doing so, I started it up and the engine screamed close to wide open. I then checked all my clamps over about 5 times and couldn't find anything wrong. So I then put the main jets that I was previousely using back in 180s, and still the same problem. I then took it home and cleaned both carbs out really well. Bolted everything back on, and still the same exact problem. I then put the stock carbs back on, started it up and it runs fine. I then put the keihins back on, and same problem, goes wide open. I made sure the boots are seated well, sparyed wd40 on the boots (no change), checked the slides and they are not sticking (didnt check them with engine running), adjusted the air screw (nothing), set the idle screws at all different spots (no change). I am using the same jetting as I was when it ran perfect. And now it is hot out instead of being really cold, so its running richer which would not cause this problem. When I start it up, it idles high equivalent to giving it between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle, and after about 3 seconds it starts to sky rocket and then I hit the kill switch and she likes to stay running for another 3 seconds. One time it stayed running for about 10 seconds wide open, even with the plug wires off. So what can be wrong with these carbs??? Please help I am stuck.

yeah that looks like the spot. its the piece that sticks out and the end is cut at a 45 angle.

wheres meat? did he get squashed by a tree his bud hacked down?? motul, ya they still have that big pheonix as far as i know.

are you guys freaking crazy!? pay for this site! hell it would be down to 20 guys talking about the same mods over and over again. i would throw my computer out the window too i think, i wouldnt have much of a need for it anymore. and let the kids ramble, sometimes i get a good laugh out of what they say. atleast they ride banshees and not 4jokes.

minkia, how much are you talking?

my banshee has a ratio of about 3 times its pulled out of the woods to 1 time it runs good and makes it. i have replaced just about everything on it. i guese i just love the 1 time that it runs great so much that i dont mind when she breaks down. i dont know if it has anything to do with riding and beating it to hard or if its on yamahas part, you got me but i do know i install everything right. do whatever you have to do, thats a nice looking one i would hate seeing it just sit.

hey thor, i ride in a different area then meat, same state, and its the same way, old strippens that is private property. no worries man, the cops dont have anything to get in the trails with here, and they are used to seeing 20 trucks lining the road, and 50 quads in the trails. they have grown to accept it. you should come, private property is the least of my worries.

$26 or 28.

All banshees, it seems no matter what you do, will still have that take off at a certain rpm, from what ive seen on dynos the motor turns on at 4000-5000rpms. you can help smooth the powerband out with paul turner mids, but you may loose a bit of topend pull. i run them and dont mind if i miss alittle up top because i just love the way she performs with them. how close is on your ass, 3ft, or 3 quad lengths? i would experiment with the jetting some and just keep riding it to get the feel for her.

if it was me i would run the stock carbs or pwk30s. you may want to look into a set of paul turner mid pipes, they will work awesome on an mx track.

i would say you definately have an airleak between the carb and jug

I have been running the interceptor for 6 months and so far its good.

i run 360s in mine.

the front brakes on these are so screwy. before i go riding every time i have to bleed them. you didnt even flip it over? maybe as it was going up you grabbed the front brakes out of frantic and blew the seals in the calipers?? thats my only guese.

thats what the cotter pins are for

the bandits dont do good on the coal hillclimbs.

for it to run proper you should have porting done as well. do a search theres lots to read.

54 more days, better start warming those engines up!!