trickedcarbine

Then it's a dirty or worn needle and seat. How does the little plunger doohickey right at the pivot of the float? Have you had it out yet?

Porting is gonna be 3-400ish. There is a laundry list of engine builders who are doing great stuff with these machines. Hit the sponsor list and start making calls to see who you feel is on the same page as far as budget and goals are concerned. Ive sent stuff and bought stuff from multiple guys on the sponsor list. Fast, Redline, LED, etc. all great fellas. I'll post on the head info in a bit.

Check float height as well and beware of dealers! These things are simple once you do it all once.

Whoever you choose, JDS can do custom covers and lenses with a multitude of designs or even your own design.

^that

Stockers are good and if you're not ported it's nonsense to swap carbs. If you can't make the stock carbs run clean, what makes you think a new carb you have no experience with at all will fix your issue? They all need to be dialed in regardless of size and brand. Believe it or not, a 2/1 requires a better tuner then if you had the stock dual carbs. They get finicky on the midrange to top end transition and takes a perfect needle and position, otherwise they just feel goofy. Your decisions and money, but I reccomend learning the stickers before spending money. Maybe, just maybe, if you had all the bolt ons, I'd do a set of 28mm PWK's but that's after everything you could do before porting. Now once a motor is ported, not just material moved here and there by someone who thinks they know porting, but an actual two stroke specialist, you have a whole different animal.

Lotta has been folks out there. I'm saying his claim is doubtful or fellas on bigger bikes weren't riding well.

Shoot, I never checked this. Sending PM

Not sure, it's an Aprilla with a 421 cheetah.

I'll see what I can find.

Exactly

The FMF set up was a T Rex with actual Rotax powervalves. The other option out around that time was from LA sleeve and it was a Mono and had proprietary valves as well.

You keep saying Rotax powervalve. The Cheetah did not use a Rotax Powervalve. They used proprietary Trinity designed valves. I'm just trying to be clear, you had yours set up with actual Rotax powervalves, or just the powervalves that come with the cheetah?

There is definitely weight to be saved on the battery these days. FTZ did a lot with those when they came out. They are mostly doing small sprint car type stuff these days, but it might be worth giving them a call.

How did Kan fit the Rotax valves? I have been looking for options other then the regular Trinity PV's and it looks like a bit of work to get Rotax valves on the cheetahs.

^ good

Unhook the cable from the perch. Move the clutch arm on the engine case till it stops. The tip should align with the arrow on top of the case when you push it to its stopping point. If that's not happening, you will need to pull the clutch cover and use the adjuster in the middle of the clutch pressure plate to make it line up. Once that's good, you can set the cable tension how you want it. If it all lines up but you steel need excessive adjustment to make it not stall, it's probably time for a new clutch cable.

Sudco or pjmotorsports

Should. Can't hurt to call and ask.

That's stock as fuck. You definitely need at least a 27.5 pilot. Any local shops you can buy jets? I'd say you should grab 27.5 pilots, 280 & 290 main jets.

Make sure to use a properly sized screw driver so it doesn't Gaul the top up. If it doesn't wanna come right away, use a hammer to give the end of the screw driver a little whack.

yup

Ok, posting photos here requires a photo host. Tapatalk is the easiest way. Are you on a apart phone or tablet? If so down load the tapatalk app.

Do you mean Kurt? I think there was a fella named Kurt that helped a bit on Jim Vidmar's Pikes Peak Duncan build.

Gotcha, we know where you're coming from. Your first step to making tuning easier is to remember this: Idle-1/4 throttle (pilot & air screw) 1/4-3/4 throttle (needle) 3/4-full throttle (main) Main concern is making sure that with colder temps coming in, that you have enough fuel going through the carb or you WILL melt a hole in the piston/s. Your 270's with FMF exhaust and the pro flow intake will more then likely need to be just a touch richer if you want it to be reliable. 270's would typically be ok with the stock airbox with a lid and stock filter but your intake feeds more air. Couple that with colder denser air temps, and that thing will wanna eat just a bit more. Now, your off idle throttle. That is where the pilot and air screw actually make a difference. You are trying to just whack the throttle and get it to come alive and you are getting some hesitation? Typically two strokes will have just a hint of hesitation at that point. It's the nature of the beast. But, there are things you can do to make it seem non existent or so minimal it's not noticed. Simply put, proper tuning. Take the bowl off the carb, and right in front of the brass hex shaped main jet, there will be a recess and inside is a flat head brass jet. Remove that and tell us what number is on it.