trickedcarbine

No. Race gas motors are designed to combust with a more violent explosion in the combustion chamber. Whether it's done with timing, additional compression, or a combo of both is up to the guy building the motor. A race gas motor is fun, and can certainly be reliable but a pump gas motor is gonna carry a bit more reliability and be far less stressful on parts. If your friends are just telling you to burn race gas, that's just nonsense. Running race gas in a motor not designed to run it will leave you with an incomplete burn. It won't light properly and will actually hinder performance. Not sure why people seem to think race gas just makes a better bang in any ol motor.

Hell, keep it cheap and build a 4mm stock cylinder on pump gas. Super reliable.

Billit. The Billit cases and cranks are sort of one of those things that when you need it, you know you need it. As you are still new to this, I'd instantly tell you that you won't be needing any of that. It's all for very large motors that make big, big power and to keep one alive is gonna take lots of experience or a lot of money in broken parts to gain the experience. For a fella like you, I'd suggest a 421 Serval or Driveline set up. Either of them will be on a cost effective 4mil crank, 68mm bore and all go in stock cases with modification. Although it would be smart to port match either cylinder to the top case. That's easy stuff though. A 421 serval is gonna be in the 80hp range, carry a really fun torque curve, and allow you to ride all that different terrain you mentioned. You can put it together with out all the porting and ride it for a season, and decide if/what you would wanna change, and have a builder tweak it to your liking.

Holy fuck! I love seeing someone who is actually motivated.

Just snatched up a 535 Cheetah for a decent deal, and it came with Shearer Big Bore Exhaust. I'm curious if any one out there is running Sniper inframes on a 500cc and up motor that has ran both as inframes on a duner or bike that gets hot lapped?

How the frigg did I just miss that bumper?

Paddles in snow are definitely a fun time. At least if you are dressed right.

Shoot I totally botched that post. You are correct as they are just venting the bellow. Rotax are spring tension, I said similar in that it is a blade driven by pressure.

Anything but Mod Quad

-2For the super serval and cheetah.

Remember there is more to the world out side the box you live in. Daryl Rath has been building chassis parts for over two decades. Several bikes out there with his TI parts, but it was always limited and costs big bucks.

FTZ may be worth calling. They did a ton of them years ago.

I believe it was 1.125 ID. I swapped the flange and just bent the tube to go out back and ran them a few weekends with no silencers. I honestly couldn't give a direct RPM as it never went on the dyno, but with every thing else the same I gained a consistant 3MPH on the straight a way of our 1/2 mile oval.

Depends on what class, but yes.

Interesting.

Well that frame is gonna be 450 geometry, so it wouldn't matter either way. However on my current bike I was gonna bolt up those light weight Fireball Arms that never sold, but perhaps this may be an option. Let me mull it over a bit. I'd assume he'll be around $1500?

Lay that cover on a piece of granite or heavy glass with 600 grit. Run it in figure 8 pattern and then finish it with 800 grit. It'll be fine.

Ouch, Coolant is the anti lube in a cylinder, but it wouldn't cause a hole in the top of a piston. It is possible that it ate enough coolant from the system that the radiator didn't have enough fluid to properly cool the motor.

Then I wouldn't worry about the above issue.

Fuck! I have already committed to having Rath build my TI arms. The six5 stuff is killer!

You can still get all the cheetah stuff new. Harry McDermott sold Trinity to Dasa I believe, but he is now working under his own name at McDermott Motorsports. He kept the rights to a few Trinity products after the sale though. The cheetah is the main product he held on to.

For me, it is perfect on the ice. I've tested with plenty of sleds in oval and it works. The 535 I have coming is going in my current bike and it'll see trails to. Our trails go from twisty stuff in trees to open power lines and fire roads. So it'll be nice to lug the bike in tight stuff and then be able to get it wide open with out it feeling like it's hitting a wall on the top end. There is no question that a properly designed PV set up can benefit any motor that sees a variation of RPM. It's getting it to work in a particular application that makes it worth it or not.

Lotta boats in the smaller classes with snowmo engines doing this.

Trinity valves work very similar to the Rotax Rave valves. However, they use a keihin jet to bleed off pressure from the bellow. Smaller jet bleeds less, so you get a slower operation of the valve. Larger jet bleeds off pressure and makes the valve react vaster. It's not a bad set up. I fiddled with a 421 cheetah and it was actually pretty easy to get the valves dialed in for a buddy. I've got a 535 on the way now, so I'll see how it goes a second time around.

Only if someone porting really has no clue how to do it. That is currently the least of your worries.