trickedcarbine

I see this a lot on asphalt and dirt drags. (Cars, trucks, atv's, etc.) not on sand but anywhere the dust isn't relentless. I tried it on the ice but felt like it made more of a frozen mess.

Gaskets melted? We talking rubber O-rings for a cool head? And the base gasket is fried as well? There might have been another underlying issue.

FAST for any little clips and what not. He even has full circle clips if your cases have the groove in the top Half to take it.

You're going to be playing in some of the nastiest machines. Go 10mil if you wanna really play

^ true. In the live thread that my bike felt more responsive with bigger pods, but to be honest, I have no proof it helped up top numbers wise. I liked your analogy with the straw. Really simple way of describing it.

First, confirm your suspicion that it's toast with a simple compression gauge. Then do a leak down on the motor. Follow that with a pressure test on the coolant system. This should help in figuring out what caused the burn down. Take photos of everything as you tear it down. Spark plugs, domes, bores, pistons. Take it down to the cases. It's not so bad really. Jut get a clymer manual.

Yahtzee!

Have you tried spitting on it? Perhapse don't be cheap and buy some quality lube. Bitches love good lube. It shows you're thinking about them........

Yep, whole lotta faggin' off in here. For the record, I'm classy. Like that slut in pretty woman. If I were to be blowing dudes I'd be doing it in New York or LA where the good looking dudes got money. Not fucking Kansas. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

^ nah, it's slow cuz you can't keep it together long enough to dial it in ; ) You're cursed, if you aren't burning shit down you got wild life kicking you and your shit over sideways.

If it's not electrical Leak down ( there is an awesome write up on making one here) Systematically check carbs - fully disassemble them -clean them - blow all offices out with air - re assemble with slides in correct position -check choke tube -check bowls are oriented correctly

Here's a misc. list I keep around for electrical. Trouble shooting list Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switch Swap CDI At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

There should be two little reliefs in the case where you set those nubs. Also, you're rebuilding this motor? That means there was a catastrophe? Are you sure this crank is worth putting back in? Was it checked? If so by who and how? No sense in putting a sloppy crank back in.

Totally forgot about this

Good read ^ if you are really wanting to grasp these things . There is even a contributors forum there now.

The part where the transfers from the cylinder sit

Nay. Just drops in. May want to look in to case porting. Definitely worth it on a cub cyl.

Any one remember this ¥ Get in line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Awe, he took the time to look me up that's cute. Just remember, anyone serious is smart enough to not leave an E trail. And I'm just talking about dumb ol' criminals like my self. So where do you fit in on that?

By the way Brian Turfrey is good at what he does. So what happened with you?

This just shows that you are an idiot........ Dude, get over it. And grow up. Also, if you seriously do drop a threat with some one, it's not a good idea to do it with out even knowing who they are. But since you are making your problems your enforcer buddy's problem I guess that's cool. Just shows what kind of PUNK and moron you are. By the way, I've got my 1%er patch and earned my red laces, but you don't hear me going around being a fucking internet thug bragging about doing time and trying to be tough guy. Ask your intelligent GP friends to pay your tough thug friends to slap some fucking sense in to you. That would be the smartest thing you can do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Those are not shabby^ I use two of the huge ones for tools at work. More try rugged.

Think of any of the stupid stuff not in the manual. Seen many times where someone is in the top end so they move all the cables and wires and something gets moved or bumped so it's loose or not connected. The throttle cable has all the ends in the bungs of the 2/1 section, the ends is seated in the carb tops and throttle perch?

Tire balls anybody.....

Hmm, that's an odd length. It might help to PM Banshee332. Brad runs 500' but I'm sure he can help you with 400' runs