trickedcarbine

Not to be rude, but with out pics I'd be willing to give you AIDS for both......jk. But seriously....

Sitting on a set here in White Lake. Please hit me up in a PM. I will be available tomorrow.

^ this guy speaks truth.

Mattoon or Direct Drive if you are building a drag set up that will need changes and adjustments. But if you're just a trail guy looking to tame a more potent motor and won't need to be in and out of the side cover at every race weekend, then I'd say the Driveline Slingshot style is the hot ticket. Yes the actual unit it self is more then the finger style, but you won't need to buy a fancy clutch cover so there is some money saved overall.

Will those work with the 35mm PWK's? And where are they from?

Have you investigated girdle options? Like the TDR one that is solid aluminum?

Has the quad been rolled? Could be upper hoop damage.

Tony at TDR. They have pretty decent pricing on the WSM forged stuff.

Carl is close. I'll bet with the PC's it'll wind up with about 52-55 pilot and main will probably dial in around 168ish. Set the idle with the choke knob. Run it all the way in (clock wise) and back it out 7-7 1/2 turns. Use paint pen to keep track. What needles do you have, CGL or CEL?

Agreed, there's a member who ate an ice bank due to fire ball parts failure and they would do nothing. I get why they don't wanna replace stuff, but in my opinion I feel that if there are other companies who will with out question, that's the stuff I'll choose to run.

EK or RK. Starting to see stellar results with the Driveline stuff and will probably use it next go around.

Well, as mentioned. A quality thread repair is in order. Helicoil or TimeSert should do. Also, bank on that head and jug's mating surfaces being pretty well destroyed. So lap them or have some one qualified check for flatness and properly machine them.

Nothing pertinent to what OP is looking for other then they are white base....

Long time ago I think.... Like 2000-05 ish.

Check the seal behind the sprocket.

^ you with vintage smoke?

Clean the head and verify it's flatness. Lap it or mill it if it's to far gone. Do the same with the cylinders. When you install it, leave the jugs sorta loose. Then torque the head first. Do the base nuts after. This allows the jugs to pull up and seal to the head more evenly.

Pop? Like from out of the exhaust? Some thing inside the low end letting go? That's the most vague decription...

^ pics to prove otherwise?

^ That, or check the float bowls. They are left and right specific.

Water gets in the carb slides and acts like a suction cup and kinda keeps them open. That's just the pre-curser to the motor eating enough water to hydro lock it or even bend/snap rods.

If it won't simply come apart after a few clutch romps, then you may need to check the basket and hub for wear/grooves.

DDQ is fiddling with one. I'm sure it'll look cobbled but give you some ideas.

What type of power is the bike making? If it's pretty well built you may need some trans work done to promote better shifting. At a minimum there are some simple bolt on items that can help. Otherwise, check ALL components for wear and properly adjust the eccentric/shift shaft.

I'm not just sure....... I'm HIV positive!