trickedcarbine

Thanks for the heads up on the coating. Think a soak in brake cleaner would suffice or do I gotta get drastic?

STY, I'm about to buy a bunch of new components from Barnett actually. Am I wasting my time and money ordering a set of the Cryodized Aluminum plates? I've got tons of steels already Cryo treated. Just wanted to give them a try. Also, I am no longer seeing their Carbon Fiber frictions available individually for the banshee.

There is no pistol on that list. I'd start there. Find him on face book and go have a shot.... I mean chat.

^ DO NOT DO THIS. Stock mains will burn that motor down. And thinking the main will affect start up is backward. And not to be rude nique, tearing a motor down and dropping a trans in it and re assembling everything else does not count as a full top/bottom rebuild. The compression is pretty low on that thing so that makes start up difficult as is, but it'll also compound just about any other issue. A stock bike with FMF's and pods WILL be 27.5-30 pilot and 270-280 main. Start checking over electrical as well. All the simple stuff like that can make a bike run piss poor. -Set the pick up gap -Clean nubs on flywheel and pick up -Gap plugs -New Plug Boots -Grease Connections -Clean the ground You got my number, calls or text for any help.

What mods, that's dang close but it should be more brown and not so whispy lookin.

Should see his family's race cars.

Get a honda thumb throttle, maybe an aftermarket one, but the OEM Honda thumb is pretty nice. Call Fast for the proper cable.

Sounds normal to me. Crank case and trans area are separate. The trans has a vent right on the back and if you stand it up or over fill it, it will puke immediately. About as fast as you can tip a cup over.

Nice, hope the flywheel is still good. Better the tearing down a motor and not finding an issue.

VRX is on point with the screw on the ends of some polishing heads so buy wisely. The Mother's Cone is Ok..... But IMO you can buy actual wedges, cones, mini wheels that are the same make up as actual Buff Wheels to get the same results as a stand up buffer would give ya. Here's a write up I did a long time ago. You can just sub wheels with different shapes. Same principle applies. Oh, if you need to purchase some polishing stuff, run up to a Performance Tool on 59 & Telegraph.

Corded high speed drill gets in pretty well. Use cones instead of wheels to get in tight. Start with a medium to firm wheel to start with aggressive compound and work up to softer compounds and wheels. Finish it with Master Formula Metal Gloss polish and sealer. It will look chrome! Or you can use some foam mothers wheel and whatever compound for meh, results.

They need to be pulled and pressed on, so if you got access to that it's easy. I'd definitely have yours checked for trueness and phase, and get a quick weld on it at a minimum.

You forgot the snake skin boots.... But that's probably 'cuz you're a boot fella your self.

30 pilot Needle full rich (work up) 320-330ish main

Tried another kart company and the guy didn't think they were the same. The 28's I believe are a smaller body.

I dig the hammer powder on the wheels .

Bearings could be nearing the end. Look at everything under the clutch cover. If nothing apparent shows up, you need to split the cases.

To lean on the pilot.

My 4 mil liked a CGL in the PJ's. Before that I had a finicky mid range on CEL's. This was on a dune port. Try the CEG's and see what it does. Also in my experience, i feel that with the way the choke is at a constant on the PJ's keeping them FAT helped it feel more responsive. Doesn't need to be blubbery rich, but you certainly won't need to lean them up to make them feel crisp off idle.

Carbs getting fuel? It fired with fuel being put in the cylinder, so I'd suspect the carbs at this point. Clean them, clean the petcock, check choke tube and slides.

Those adjusters are sweet!

Smoked lexan grills!

How about machining off the area by the water pump like Tabata posted a while back, so the pump cover and vent cover are exposed?

I ran the MR Gasket brand 16psi cap and it lasted all of 3 rides before crapping out. That thing looks even cheaper... But give it a go and see if it stays accurate. It's only a few bucks right? Can't hurt to test it out if it's cheap.

Fuck yo big ass scratch!