trickedcarbine

Love the cones!

When a girl is in to anal, but has an ugly butthole! (I'm bitter about it)

Sleeper is the guy to talk to

I posted this quite a bit and it has helped a few fellas. Trouble shooting list -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Possible but doubtful. Put a coat hanger down it and I bet it's fine. What you have is an issue where the motor is pumping the fuel but not lighting it thoroughly. I would really research the electrical. I'll post a list of things to check in a few minutes.

Think their tech is potentially misleading you. Give them a thorough deuche'.

What crank?

^ Fuggin' SAWEET!

Up down down up left right right left A B B A

24cc

Just clean it.

Inspect for any damage on the piston and ring areas or any other obvious scaring of internals. Take a good peek at the dome and piston crown, even if there isn't any major nicks, pitting, or scaring, look for small "ghost" circle patterns. You could be suffering some detonation issues. Has the bike backed out any plugs or popped the porcelain loose?

Interesting. Might as well pop the head and make sure all is well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"The mods on the bike are v force reeds, pro design cool head, fmf pipes with K&N filter. I was told the compression is about 160 on both sides maybe a little less on the left." I'm betting you got 20cc domes in there if that info above is correct and it's not ported. What fuel type again? Also that jetting could be fattened up a touch IMO, but 3000 feet up is kinda high. Could be ok. What do the plugs look like?

Yes, you should be able to pop the head off and see the engraving/stamping of some sort on the domes. You might find that your popping could be detonation. It would make sense to at least pull the carbs off and look in at the reeds to see if one is flopping around and not closing or even broken.

If you can figure out the answers to the second half of that, you will know exactly what you need to do.

You are being handed a solution, yet keep looking for some kind of loophole. If you don't know, yet ask people who do, why dance around what needs to be done? Why half ass it? Why spend thousands of dollars to risk ruining it when a few changes could make all the difference between an average running motor that comes apart all the time, or having a motor that runs at the top of it's level and is reliable? You're asking folks for answers, but you are just gonna do what you feel is right any way. You wanna buy 22cc domes. What will that put your compression at? Will it be what you need I to be? What kind of compression do you need a cub with even mild exhaust work to show on a gauge to be able to safely run 91 with or with out any timing? Even when you get that gauge to show the magic 150 psi on a cub, is your uncorrected compression ratio appropriate for such low octane?

< giving up.

Get 23-24cc domes if you wanna be on pump. You bought and paid for 110. Why go muddying it up with 91 blend? Just run it straight for now and pay the few bucks for the right domes for what you want.

Doesn't matter if it's a drag bike or not. You have a set up with enough compression to light pump fuel (especially 91 octane) before the piston even gets toward the top of it's stroke. This means one piston is on the down stroke while the other is coming up and before it gets to the sweet spot where you want it to fire, it is igniting on pressure/heat alone. It will destroy your crank, rods, or piston. Maybe all of it. Picture the rod shoving the piston up ward to compress the air and fuel mixture but half way up, you whack it with a sledge hammer. That is the effect detonation has on parts. Keep telling your self it's not a race bike so it doesn't need race fuel. You will rebuild it. Blending 50:50 91/110 gets you 100 octane but it's flirting with what that motor needs. Especially if you got it geared to make good load on the motor or if you're a bigger fella.(heat) I advise against it, but if you wanna give it a run and see what it does, by all means it's yours to do so. I would say pull the timing back to zero first and get it jetted a little fat before doing any wide open pulls. Definitely try 9's for spark plugs. Ultimately if you are not cool with the cost of the cost of fuel, it would be very wise to order up a new set of domes to better suit your needs.

The alba's that can have the link pulled out for longer travel, yes. It you're talking just regular +2 arms, then no. They would be to tall for regular arms.

Hell yeah...

Do not blend it. Run the 110 straight. It'll allow you to give it some timing as well and actually keep it alive.

Piston seizure. Or, maybe you're lucky and it's just the kicker mechanism. Pull the stator cover and try and move the flywheel by hand. Any sketchy event before this issue?