odaen

I like mine, personally. It's probably a little more than you are picturing though and most come with a bearing instead of the plastic stock bushing.

I bought a complete motor off ebay a few years ago, and someone had tried to port the cylinders with a straight bit, so they were junk. Well, i yanked them off and bought a set of cylinders and had Redline port them. He bored them .030 over to the size of the pistons I had and re-ringed them. Has run pretty good thus far and saved me $100. normally, I'd just stuff new pistons in though.....but times are tough.

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pics would be good too :beer:

About a year and a half ago, I approached a few builders about making a set of shift drums for override trannies. As it was then, I think every builder that cut trannies still had to manually weld and machine the grooves in the shift drum, which is the most time consuming part, and all of them that I'd talked to would gladly fork out $60+ for the drum. I'm really not certain what the material and machining costs would be, never really made it that far, because we got busy as hell at work. It's highly likely you could charge much more, since they typically charge 300-450 per tranny. Also, looked into making some pegs for multiple ATV's, where the peg itself was common, but how it mounted to the bike was different. Material cost for that shouldn't be too bad.

If you're gonna do any jumping and such with it, I'd recommend a gusseted one like a lonestar or knockoff of a lonestar. Keep checking ebay, craiglist, and places like here and planetsand. Can score some really nice deeals from people changing their setups.

Doesn't that mean you are effectively selling stolen property?

I've run them on a couple of bikes, and they work fine for me. The problem is more likely your jetting being just a tad off than your actual carbs. 6th gear puts the heaviest load on your motor, so it shows any problems that could otherwise be masked because your motor isn't working as hard. Might try moving up or down a main size and see how it runs then. Could also try a new set of plugs too. Good luck! :beer:

First, I don't think you understand gearing. If you go down in size on the tire, you need to increasing your gearing to keep the overall ratio the same. So, going to a smaller diameter tire, then dropping 2 teeth off the front will drastically lower your overall drive ratio. Second, I've heard you don't wanna run a sprocket smaller than 14teeth from a few builders, because it puts more strain on the chairn having to bend around that diameter. Dunno if that's true or not, but I've always kinda took it. As for porting, a dune port will really make a huge difference in your power. Top speed on the sand is almost pointless as well. If you find a patch of sand long and flat enough for 6th gear wide open runs, more often than not, you'll see some guy waiting patiently for his buddy to run back to camp for the tow strap cause he just melted his top end.

Currently, you are way over paddling your bike. Even when you get it ported, that's a ton of tire for what your bike will be. After porting, assuming you launch in 2nd, I'd guess somewhere around 14-44 for the gearing would give you good results. You might wanna keep a look out for some 21" haulers on an 8" rim, 9 or 10 paddle, and 14-42 gearing. You'd probably like that alot more.

Yeah, just got another 4mm motor done, and it re-invigorated my love for banshees. :beer:

I installed it last night from home from the links.... which link is giving you problems?

It's not nearly that simple, I can assure you. Here's a program I wrote that can calculate durations given all of the needed parameters, and a whole bunch of other stuff. As a footnote, I refer to negative deck height as pistons rising above the top of the deck. First you have to download and install this: ftp://ftp.ni.com/support/labview/windows/...VRunTimeEng.exe Then download this, unzip it, and copy the contents anywhere on your pc. http://www.redline-racing.net/PortMapper/PortMapper.zip

K&N filter with the lid on, off, or K&N pods? Lid on, I think I ran a 260 main with my T5's Lid off, probably 280'ish Pods, probably around 320'ish

I don't remember the stock port timing or distance from the deck that the ports open, so I can't help ya. If you knew the distance from the deck to where you want the roof of the port to be, I could tell you the duration.

I dunno how a lockup clutch or override is gonna make his tranny more durable. From your mods and tires and such listed in your sig, I'm gonna assume that you ride dirt and trails. In both cases, I doubt I'd recommend either of those options. Transmissions are funny. I had one that acted like it was skipping a tooth on the chain every once in awhile under load, and when we pulled it apart, it was hard to see the wear on the cog that caused it. About all you can do is inspect everything thoroughly and replace anything that's worn with new. They're pretty bullet proof for most bikes that are not fullout drag bikes with over 100HP. Even then, they use the stock gears aside from a billet 2nd. Just use good tranny oil and don't use worn out shit and you should be ok.

That bike is beautiful, man. And that's a sweet ass deal on those pipes and clamps. Free bump ^^^

Wes, you suck. Been wanting some of these for a while now! ::

^^^Bueller....Bueller

Welcome to HQ! While it's half-way apart already, I'd strongly consider just tearing the motor down all the way and getting the crank welded and throw some new seals in it. If not, just make sure you do a leak-down test once the top end is back together. I normally just ride the bike for a few minutes (not overly hard) and let everything warm up to normal operating temp and shut the bike off til it cools. Rinse and repeat several times for the rings to seat, etc, and that's how I normally break in a new motor. Good luck with her. Also, make sure your jetting is right, or you'll be putting another top end in it in no time. You may want to look at milling the head to raise the compression some, and get an adjustable timing plate to bump your ignition timing up a few degrees. That will give you better throttle response and HP going up through the RPM.

There are 2 things I hate about going to Cascade: 1) I realize how big of a pile of shit my bike is compared to theirs 2) I never have enough $ to get all the stuff I want.

I haven't run anything other than a tusk kit in my banshees for the last 3 or so years, on bikes that have dyno'd at 76, 100, and 73 HP. Although it doesn't matter what clutch kit you run if the other components (hub, pressure plate, basket, springs) or tranny fluid are shit.

Thanks for the nod, Jeff.

Not a big fan of Moose products, but I broke the adjustment on my Fly perch over Memorial Day, and all the Yamaha shop had was the Moose racing one, and I'm glad they did. Most of my bikes, the adjustment on the perch sits so far out, and there's so much leverage against the adjustment where it screws into the perch, that it bends pretty fast, and in my case broke off. Anyway, if you are having similar issues with your perch, give the Moose one a shot... Broken Fly One Moose One

Bump ^^^ Sell me those front hubs!