cbn70

I guess it sounds like I am one of the many that have had this problem too. It only seems to happen in the sand. Never in the mud or on a hard packed road. I thought if it was the chain skipping on the sprocket, the rear sprocket would be missing teeth, or the teeth would be rounded off. This does not seem to be happening. Also thought it was the sprocket carrier slipping on the axle, but marked it and it is not. Also if this was happening, the splines on the axle should be stripped by now. I have an aftermarket skid plate on it, and can only sumise that it is sand building up and going through the rear sprocket. I am hopefully going to take off the skid plate and try riding it this weekend and see how it goes.

Looking to buy the upper right and upper left control arms for a 200o she. thanks

You have a pm,

pm sent

Soap and water in the kitchen sink. then spray the cylinder with WD40 and wipe out with a white paper towel, if it is gray looking then wash again. then do the WD40. Once the paper towel is white after you wipe it on the cylinder it is clean and ready to go.

you have a pm

Like the topic says looking to buy a shortened swingarm. Probably -1 or -2 . What do you have???

would be interested in both upper control arms.

That is what I was thinking of -1 or -2. the others seem to be a bit much??

What lenght of swing arm are people running for flat track racing?? -1 or -2?? I will be using +2 wider and +1 forward control arms as well as lowering it. thanks

I looked at the wiring diagram that I have and the B/W from the YPVS motor and the B/Y from the cdi should be hooked together. I think the problem is the brown from the YPVS motor is the power wire and needs to be hooked up to your fuse box/ power. My qwiring diagram does not have a brown from the recifier, only a black and that is the ground wire. Hope this helps.

you have a PM

Don't you usually try to dyno in what ever gear you have that is closest to a 1:1 ratio??

thanks for the reply's. I think that I will like these pipes for the trail riding, but have some others to try for dune riding, and other types of riding. I have T-3's, T-5's and a set of paul turner midrange as well.

any others?? :baseball_bat:

that is kinda what I was thinking, but have never used this setup before. The guy I bought it from said he set it up for trail riding. It will work good for that, but don't think it will be that good for when I take it to the dunes. Might need to put a set of different pipes on it.

I just bought a 2000 banshee with gnarly pipes. It also has ignition advanced 4 degrees and a k&n filter. This thing pulls like crazy on the bottom, but is flat on the top. Does not pull on the top like the other banshees I have owned over the years with the regular fmf fatties and toomey pipes. I have had the carbs apart and done numerous jetting runs and the jetting is good. Is this the nature of these pipes?

Boonman does awsome work!!!

What are the casting numbers off the cylinders?? Are they off a US bike, or a Canadian bike??

interested, what kind of shape are the reeds in?? Any pic's. If so send to [email protected]

thanks for the replies

I thought someone a while back posted a link to a site that showed how to port you stock reed cages to make them flow better. Does anyone know of this site?? Or have the info on how to do it/ where to take the material off??

What needles are you running in your 34's?

If you are talking about the UFO's, I have used them and they are great. They make your bike way snappier in the midrange. Also noticed theat I needed to jet alot less. They were a little work to put in and get jetted right, but well worth the money.

I had a set done about 5 years ago(ceramic coated), and they still look the same as the day that I got them done. I only got the flat black done, I think now they have more colors to choose from.