cbn70

pm sent :thumbsup:

I have ran diferent pipes and the ones that I like the best for trail riding are the FMF Knarly pipes.

I never knew that they will cut the head to make it all work. What is the best way to go? Or does it really matter?

If you are going to put a 4 mill stroker crank into your shee, do you need a spacer plate or are there pistons with wrist pins located 2mm lower? What are the combinations for the different stroker cranks htat are available??

Why not just send your stock head to the person who did the porting and he can set up your stock head to match your porting??

would be interested in the upper a-arms

How much for the cylinders and what bore are they on?? What are the casting numbers on the side of the reed cages?

nice to see some one other than a dealer is stocking the banshee pilots.

count me in too

thanks GEEZR thats the same way that I checked mine. Solder through the spark plug holes, then turn it over by hand using the stator and squish the solder and pull it out the measure it. chuck

used some solder and put it in the cylinder and then turned the engine over.this then flattens out the solder, then take it out and measure it.

had one on my 95 shee. Color (purple ) did not match up to the stock yamaha colors too well. also had to cut the front plastic(part where it wraps aroung the stock gas tank) to make it fit. But it sure was nice to have the extra fuel.

What is the best way to increase the squish? Just double up on the base gaskets or does someone make them in whatever thickness you want?? Chuck

What are people running for a squish clearance(piston to head). My motor is about .020 of on inch. This seems to be a little tight?? Might have to put in another base gsket to increase it??What does everyone else have?? thanks Chuck

motor has 4 degree advance and the compression is 180-190 psi compression.

any luck with finding the control arms?? thanks

Just wondering if someone has a chart that had compression vs. what octane fuel to run. Courious to know where the cutoff is between premium and 50/50 race and premium and 100 percent race gas(110 octane). Some one must know??

yes I just need the upper left control arm

cool let me know what you find. Chuck

still looking

Glad some of this info is helping ya. If you want a good book to read about jetting mikuni carbs, get Carb Tuning Handbook by Olav Aaen. I got it from a snowmobile shop. Might be able to find it online. It is really the best book I have found explaining the different mikuni carb circuits and how to change them to make them work for your particular application.

What I did was file off some material from the front(air filter) side of the slide. This will make the slide leaner and helped with leaning out the bottom end of the carbs. The stock is a 2 and I took off about 1 mm. this would make it about a 3. hope that helps. Chuck

I have a k&n filter with boysen reeds, and the gnarly pipes, also the air box lid is on. My jetting is as follows. Main jet is 260 pilot is a 35 Dyno jet needle in second from the top Slide has been cut from a 2 to about a 3 or 3.5 With this set up it seems to pull hard right from the bottom to the top, but not a lot of over rev, but that is the pipes. It seems to be a good set up for the woods and trail riding that i do. Needed to cut the slides because i could not get a leaner set from the dealer.

that is a sweet unit!!!!! What are they charging for it??? Does it include domes??

bump