race-a-holic

That-a-boy!!!!

Normally taking off in second should be better.One less shift and eliminates accidentally hitting neutral.Depends on the surface you're racing on.The last time I was at little sahara,I raced one of my friend's banshee.I could get it to launch in second,but it didn't want to rev very fast.It launched harder in first.Might just have to experiment.

I'm fixing to replace mine.They are worn bad.It's easy to tell when mine were slipping.RPM's are up yet it just didn't to seem to be pulling like it should.Bikes running with ya that really shouldn't.You get the idea.So it's staying in the shop until I get new clutches.Hopefully that will be soon.I plan on getting them from F.A.S.T. racing as well as the shift mod.I've heard very good things about F.A.S.T.racing.

The out of frames may look cool,but think of how much fun it is to beat the out of frame piped bikes with one with inframes.Seems to me the in-frames make it seem more like a sleeper.My shearer pipes are awesome!

Good job!

I think 300 would be a good starting point.Make sure to check the plug to see if it's lean after rejetting it.

I think a good port job,34 or 35mm carbs,shaved head,and K&N filters should do the trick.It should be alot faster.If you'll look at the really fast banshees,all the ones I've seen were running dual carbs.Toomey T-5's are a good choice.I think the best choices would be either Shearer or CPI.The shearer in-frames I have pull very hard on top end.I've also seen some very fast banshees with CPI's also.

Do you use the air lid or have modified it any?

For mid range to top end,I'd use either shearer or cpi.These pipes are great for drag racing.The shearers I have pull very hard on topend.I think I'd go back to dual carbs.Although,I've never tried a single.They should get you up hills very quickly.Just make sure to hang on.

I looked on Rob's website.He redone the site,and the new pipes are on there.(rdzracing.com)

I've got a set of his' inframes,but have not seen the new ones yet.Are they on his website?

The T-5's are a very good pipe.I think you would be happy with them.I liked the set I had.For a stronger mid to top end pipe,CPI or shearer are awesome.I have shearer pipes on mine.They are extremely impressive to me.

Boost bottles are not only a waste of money,but they get in the way when working on the bike(clutter)and can cause air leaks.A friend of mine actually had to rebuild his bike because of one.It was rubbing against one of his' pipes and caused an air leak,leaned it out,and there went the motor.I prefer the stock cross-over tube. The toomey needles are longer than stock and this allows it to be more tapered.It allows the fuel to be let into the engine slower than short needles that let the main jet open up faster.I had T-5's,Trinity head w/20cc domes,K&N filters,v-force reeds,and a dyna ignition,and I was using a 420 main jet.It run good for a piped banshee.I bought a set of intakes(UPP) from Magic Racing.I really like them.Their ad can be found in Dirtwheels.I've had good luck with them.

Does he have an aftermarket pipe? For 300 ft.,I agree with going with the 13 tooth front sprocket.This race will most likely be won at the starting line.You should beat him if you can beat him off the line.Don't be surprised if he beats you if he gets the holeshot.A piped YFZ is no slow poke.Two friends of mine,one with a piped banshee and one with a piped YFZ,run very close.They are dead even through the gears,but the banshee will slowly gain the lead once topped out.

I'm one of those guys that never really thought much about dialing in the suspension until the banshee was ported,shearer pipes,and on alcohol.I'm learning just how important that is.I've had bikes run with me that motor wise I should have been running away from.Yes,suspension and gearing does matter.

At the track I was at,you don't get R/T,60ft.,etc...Not even a time slip.They just call out your times.I think slicks would definitely help.It may be time for some new clutches too.Remember the porting I got is not an all out drag port.I still have a few more things to try to see if I can get in the 7's. The slicks should help alot.It never even tried to lift the front end.I'm thinking traction problem.On dirt tracks,it will lift the front end through at least 3rd.This could be slipping clutches too.Not really sure.I was using struts all the way around.I'm wondering if shocks on the front would let it lift some and maybe help put more weight on the tires.Any ideas?

Well we went to george's sunday.Had a good time.It was hot.Probably in the mid-90's,and no shade.It run an 8.44,two-8.41's,and an 8.37.I was using nearly slick stock banshee tires.I had my wheelie bar on and really didn't need it.I need some slicks for it.What I'm the most proud of is,I beat a crotch rocket.I smoked him off the line,and he couldn't catch me. I'm not sure what size it was,but still didn't expect to beat him. Oh,and my friend with the diesel ran 10.60.Not bad for a Dodge 4+4,extended cab,dually.

I saw a banshee with the maier(raptor) yellow plastic.I actually liked it.The first time I saw a set(I think they were grey)I thought I'd puke.YUCK! It's probably one of those things you either love or hate.Maybe it was just the color I liked so well.Hey it's your banshee,do what you want. Anybody ever notice how some of the 400EX plastic looks like 250R plastic.Now that's heading in the right direction.4-strokes looking like 2-strokes.I'll stick with either the original plastic or maybe fullbore.

It might be possible.There is more to winning races than just the motor.Having the right gearing tire,etc...I have heard the cubs are putting out some big horsepower #'s on the dynos.The biggest # I've heard so far was a 4 mil. stroker that made 114 hp.They will most likely keep improving them so the powervalves may be in trouble.I think the powervalve only helps the motors on bottom end anyways.Not sure though.Besides the cubs are cheaper and still putting out good horsepower.I'd get the cubs if my wallet would let me.LOL!!!

You're not alone.I've done the same thing on my banshee.It doesn't do it very often,but it has happened.Not sure why.

You are wrong rocketboy.The predator will run by the banshee if he doesn't put enough gas in it.He'll top out the banshee,and it will die on him.Then two days later the pred. will finally catch up and pass him.LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The running out of gas will be the predators only hope,but he will probably still have enough time to refuel and still stay ahead of the polaris.

I'm probably going to try F.A.S.T. Racing for the blaster I just bought.I saw some banshees he's built and they would run away from my banshee.I haven't seen any cub banshees he's built.He visits banshee HQ sometimes.

Are you lonely?LOL!!!

Definitely not.Most people don't have any business on a banshee.Especially if it's modified.Remember there is a difference between a skilled rider and some nut that doesn't care if he crashes or not.I don't want some fool on my banshee.It's not his money that was put in my quad.

I prefered the T-5 over the fatty.I'd get the toomey needles also.Porting makes a BIG difference in a banshee also.I got a shaved stock head on my banshee.Cheaper than a cool head.Bigger carbs. will give you more top end also.