dajogejr

Go two sizes down on the main, turn the air screw out 1/2 turn... Obviously, your mileage will vary, but I've rarely had to change a pilot jet from winter to warm weather, the air screw handled it.

If you buy a set of cylinders already sleeved...then live with it. But before I paid the time and money for a set installed, I'd buy an aftermarket cylinder. The problem with big bore sleeves is it chokes down the transfer area even smaller. A lot of the power is made in the transfer area....

The way the stock fuel valve works is two pickup screens. The taller one is on. The shorter one is reserve. If the pipes are hitting the fuel valve, shim it out with some washers, you don't want that heat traveling into your fuel system...

Leak down test as said, then start looking electrical.

Yep...buy the right ones, clamp 'em down right. To be honest, on a non-busy or non-holiday weekend, you may or may not get away with it. Otherwise, they will be on your ass. They know what sparkies look like, they've seen thousands upon thousands of off road vehicles, they will look for a US Forrestry approved stamping and/or poke 'em to check. It's a 150 dollar fine...vs. 160 for a pair you'll have for as long as you have the bike. I hate it, it sucks...they look like ass, load up with oil, etc. That, or don't ride....

Just buy a 4 stroke... Ha ha ha ha... Just KIDDING. IMO...stock banshee cylinders done right with the right additions make the best trail motor for a banshee. To be honest, I'd spend more in suspension than motor work...the geometry and suspension are horrendous.

Nope. Redline, Klotz Super Techniplate or Benoil and Maxima 927 are the castor based methanol compatible. MAKE SURE your purge oil is methanol compatible as well.

I have a JJ&A knockoff, 28 inch end to end, gun drilled. My LSR was still a little lighter. I kinda miss my LSR axle...they are very tough. The splines can wear over time, but...if you simply snug the pinch bolts on the hubs before any ride/weekend, they'll still last a long, long time.

I dunno... Cut T3s are a damn good drag pipe. You just can't find them anymore....

Bob @RB builds nice motors. Local MI guy also... I'm not making any excuses for RDZ or A&S...but setup is everything.

AWW...fatty has a crush on me, that's sweet. I appreciate you taking the time at 3:30 in the morning to say hello sweetheart. Probably about the time in the morning you figure out you're not getting any...ever. I appreciate the love note...

Nope...I understand now Mopar...I was just confused by how you wrote it... I've never been an Amsoil fan, never had luck with it. However, I love my Dodge truck, always hated them before I owned one...and I'm sure there are plenty with horror stories about them, and just about every car/truck known to man. Same could be said about oils....

Happy birthday Tim from Stellar Performance, hope you have a good one!!! :beer: :beer: :beer:

Damn... You're right, that looks 100% bad ass...nice work!!!

On gas...80s to low 90s. Methanol, 90s... With some MAJOR porting and time spent...probabaly low 100's on methanol... Just out of PURE curiosity, why a blaster frame if you're gonna lengthen and widen it?

They were 41.3 Packard Lectrons and blewbyu bought them...

I say 70s as well. Trex flat out will take a lot of porting and work to run like a CP cylinder, but in the right hands....they're a handful. My question is...do you have Afflack? 70ish HP in a short, narrow blaster frame is gonna be more of a death trap than a handful... 70HP in a stock banshee frame is a wheelie machine all day long...

OJ's not on here very much any more. I talked to him a week or so ago... He sold his banshee from what he told me, and is playing with some four strokes. I think he said he's on exriders.com now... I thought that was a Honda EX site, I was wrong...LOL. This was one of the few heated arguments ojcool and I had. Since then, we've been just fine and get along...we've both tried to help each other with parts finding/selling, etc. since. Try a PM to him, he might answer quicker. I have his email, but I don't like giving personal stuff like that out....

I'm trying to figure out how you can say don't blame the oil, but in the next sentence, you say certain oils provide better wear protection... Isn't failure ultimately wear, either over time or premature?

It took me a few months to put my 10 mil bike together, but it took about two trips to the track with my 4 mil as a duner setup to say F this...I'm going full drag bike. LOL. Learn how to work the forums, how to look for parts for sale cheap, ebay, craigslist, etc. I don't have a lot of "new" parts on my bike. Most were found on ebay for cheap...to be honest. I got a 700 dollar crank (retail new) for about 200 bucks off ebay. It needed a bearing, so with my buddy who is able to do cranks, trannies, cases, etc., I have about 275 bucks in a crank. Roughly a 3rd of the price new. He also found me a Lonestar drag axle on ebay for about 350 bucks...in good shape. The guy had it listed wrong, and it only had a couple of bids. Just examples on how to save a few bucks. Like Shayne said, you're never done. Racing is only to pass time between rebuilds/upgrades....LOL.

I would've totally went off on her. You're tying up a police emergency line because you couldn't get your cheeseburger done right? They should've sent the cops, then sent her the bill for wasting their time...instead of tax payer money. F'in idiots.... Police. To Protect and Serve....and fix your drive through order.

He would've had to press that bushing out AND how is the bike starting? Not saying you're wrong...but it doesn't makes sense it's left out of this particular build.

100% done to yourself. Glad to see you trying to fix your charred name.

Sounds like those hookers in Vegas back in my day.... Believe it or not guys, I don't cut them, my bud does. I'm not very good with them...I just don't have the tools, room, etc. If it was the gear on back the basket (that engages the kick starter) he'd know....he'd go to kick it, and he'd be stabbing at dead air, nothing to catch. Does it shift through all gears ok? Find Nuetral ok? Back up... Did you pull the tranny out of the cases and remove all the gears off the shafts? If not, rule out tranny gear. Only other gears that come to mind are basket drive gear, crank drive gear, (which...stock are both helical cut...so, that rules them out) the water pump gear (which, is not hollow in the middle) kicker gear (which is smaller) and the basket gear to engage the kick start. Which...as said, the bike won't start. So...as said, I'm pretty sure you're just fine. However....you might jump on your lawn tractor and find yourself unable to go forward or backward. In that case, install a cup holder, sit and drink a cold one as the wifey/girlfriend pushes a mower to cut the grass.

Non-trans fat oil...take that. Only problem is...you can't use it in your "trans" since it specifically says "non-trans". That's what I thought it meant anyways... :yelrotflmao: