dajogejr

I've always liked the idea of those baskets. My biggest fear is a rivet coming loose and a stainless insert wreaking havoc inside there.

I know this doesn't help or solve your problem, but this is a perfect example of how easy it is to actually F UP a cylinder instead of making it better. For the DIY porters, be prepared to go through a set or two before you figure it out OR give up and put them in the hands of a professional. Did the guy that ported your cylinders give you any setup advice? Like timing, compression to shoot for, jetting, etc?

The helical or straight cut gears have nothing to do with the deto on this motor. If it locked up solid from a bearing or crank failure...then I'd look that route. Fuel, be it gas or alky, cools the top of the piston. When you add more timing, you add more heat to the motor...so you add more fuel to compensate or cool the top of the piston. There is no exact science there, so you always start rich and work down. I'd like to know: Cranking PSI UCCR Dome cc Squish Thickness Squish band thickness Was it checked for an air leak or not? What kind of ignition, what kind of spark plug, what size gap. 4 to 8 degrees is a big step. Normally, that would rattle a plug loose in a 300 foot run if the motor didn't like it. I understand your hill/dune runs are much, much longer. My guess is it ran out of fuel...get pumper carbs, get a fuel pump...problem solved. For as long as you guys run, I don't know if bigger bowls will be enough. You still need to be able to get fuel into the bowls...and gravity can only do so much.

If it were me...those were smacking the head pretty good. I'd be pulling the crank and checking it as well.

You're asking the right questions, but you're not listening to the answers. With 2 hours on plugs, you can not get an accurate reading, period. The plug with half the bottom burned is how the heat range should look on a plug, but because it's dark as all hell, it could be jetted rich on one circuit and lean on another... The carbs could be out of sync. One side compression could be a little higher or lower than the other. One spark plug cap could be going bad.... One side could have an air leak.... There are a ton of variables...trying to read an old plug isn't going to get you anywhere is all I'm getting at. Do both carbs have the same size jets and needle clip positions (don't laugh, I've seen it before)...

Friends don't let friends work on their banshees with a hammer... I would say that could very well be the problem. When you pull the spark plugs out of the motor and check for spark, it doesn't matter if it's +10 or -10 on the timing, both plugs should spark (and both will spark at the same time) Tell your buddy he owes you a pickup coil.

Garbage... I went through two of them in two years...the second one I threw in the trash at the track because I didn't want to get stuck at an event and have it fail a 3rd time. I sent Rick's Motorsports an email a long time ago, asking about their products, etc.,.. They replied quickly that Rick would get back to me (his secretary answered the email) and I never heard from them again. My advice, find a cheap used OEM in good shape and stick with it.

Highly, highly unlikely, unless you fouled them both out before you swapped plates. You're missing a ground wire or as said...pickup gap is wrong. HOW did you remove your flywheel, with a thread in puller or a jaw type?

They used to, not sure if they still do. They're both made in Taiwan, so go for the better price. IMO, unless you're buying a billet crank, all forged cranks are the same. It is MUCH more important to get it welded and trued properly with a tight tolerance, and put a good max load or TZ on the PTO side.

I can't tell anything by looking at those plugs. Neither can you if you looked at them after a quick run...richened up...then didn't look at them again for a few hours. Start with the main, look at the plugs after a warmed up WOT run. I go by feel after that. You could be lean in one area of jetting and fat in the other...I always do mains, needle then pilots. GENERALLY speaking, if the bike starts with 1 or two kicks and isn't free revving or zingy, or blubbery...the pilot/air screw are close.

C'mon Joe...you got to come to the pros...LOL. You need a rubber isolator from Grainger. I had my upper pipe seam split twice, and talked to Shearer in detail about these. They need to be rubber mounted to the peg, but they should be solid mounted to each other. I used a stock pipe hanger (drilled through the middle and put a bolt through in case the rubber shears) and an isolator from Grainger. You don't want it to flap around like a bird wing, but it needs to have some give. I also put a bolt through the top cylinder hold down and use two springs to hold it to the cylinder. Seems to be working good so far!

Shouldn't have anything to do with it. I've used FZR1000 frictions in mine for a long time...even tried Raptor 660 clutches.

Steelers won the Super Bowl. oh wait...that's old news too.

Well I can certainly appreciate building your own motor instead of buying it. It does cost more...but you know what went into it. Kudos for realizing some used parts are just better to have vs. buying new. I'd never buy a used piston, but I'd sure as hell buy a used carb, etc. You get what I mean. Glad you understood what we were getting at and you're up to a challenge. For your purpose, my advice is just have you guy clean up any casting flaws in the cub, should you go that route. A 4 mil cub setup right should have no problem running in the 7s in the 1/8 mile. 6 is possible, but that's work on the chassis, setup, tuning and overall weight (rider and bike) It can be done, but setup halfway close 7s should be no problem.

If you only have 3K save your money and wait. 3K will barely get a motor done. That doesn't include a longer swingarm, a wheelie bar, tires, gearing, etc. You could build a big motor with all the potential in the world, but if it's not getting the power to the ground, it does you no good!

Remeasure that cylinder. If it's a supercub, you can get a NOSS head made for the super cub. If it's a stock cylinder...good luck. I know at 68mm on a stock head there is paper thin material between the Oring groove and the head stud. ON an aftermarket head, stock stud design, not a ton of room either between the dome and stud. Make sure you do in fact have a 72mm piston, then give Dave Noss a call to help you out. I got a feeling you're just gonna have to run your stock head with a copper gasket. And if that's the case, get your stock head polished for the bling. Have it smoothed over, nubs and fins taken off, and polished. They actually turn out pretty nice!

Since you bought yours from me, if it has any issues anything similar to this guy, I will get it handled.

He is a one man sales team, marketing team and operations team. Yes he has several machinists making the parts, working the machines. But he is the one and only in the front office. Not that it makes any difference, he should call back within a reasonable time frame, I agree. But he's not a large, enterprise business like you think, that's all!

If I didn't have Ionia coming up and the fam with me this weekend, I'd be there...just can't. Too much going on Saturday...too bad it wasn't Sunday. This is the track most of us MI guys consider our home track...I've always had fun at Bob's and they treat you right. Don't look at these 20 feet long, monster motor bikes as the only things that runs there. Not the case at all. Piped stockers, 450s, and even smaller bikes have just as much, if not MORE fun than those of us with drag bikes. It's always more fun making pass after pass after pass than make a pass or two, tune, tweak, repeat.... I've made so many passes there I felt guilty for all the ink and paper (time slips) I drove away with. Great time...make it if you can guys!!

Not saying you're stupid at all. You asked, we answered. Too many times someone beefs up their motor but doesn't take into consideration how to get it to the ground, under budget the product, and they come out very disappointed. The folks here are, myself included, just trying to help your learning curve, nothing more!! :thumbsup:

I don't think the ambient temp has anything to do with welding the ball, it's free wheeling at top speed with the clutch pulled in. Pancake bearing fixes that every time!!

The CFM I was talking about was in PA, then TX or something like that. Never in MI. So...either totally separate and different companies (And if so, my apologies to CFM) or The scumbag moved to my state...in which he tries to steal from us we'll deal with that accordingly.

Good points. I can't tell where Cindy Crosby's dick ends and Gary Bettman's mouth begins....

Goalie, defensemen (2) forwards or wingers (2) and the center. 6 guys a side including the goalie. Unless it's the wings. We get all the penalties called on us so it's normally 5 on 4...and the other team could rape and murder our players and the refs just look away....

I would like to be her customer...LOL I'd like to shake her dad's hand on a fine job there!!