dajogejr

Well that's where you're wrong... if you paddle it enough and set up the chassis/clutch right, you don't spin with the bigger motor. It's all in the setup. 10 mil Trex, most of them are a joke. There are very few good running Trex setups out there. A guy on here has one....T_rex banshee I think. You can bolt on a cub and smoke a 10 mil trex easy.... There are more big motor banshee based bikes on pavement too...Siquiatra actually holds an ATV record...but it's a 10 mil Trex on so much spray it's ridiculous....

Sorry about the formatting. I wrote the post in Firefox. Went to edit it...it doesn't work. I edited it in Internet explorer and got all the line breaks ( the <B>) in there...sorry if that's hard to read!

Just tell me what kind of numbers it runs in 300 foot sand.Considering since the fastest bikes at PS single cylinder 4 stroke unlimited ran 3.8 or 3.9 and the fastest in the 0-475 cc LIMITED (No NOS or Turbo) run 3.7s...I'd like to see that statement contradicted.I'm not talking about 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, etc.Planet Sand's events are the biggest stage for 300 foot of sand racing year after year.And I would bet that Raptor has nitro/turbo or a combo of both.A 10 mil banshee on methanol (cub cylinder, 68 bore) will put out 120 to 125HP all day long, probably 10 or so less torque.Easily, cheaply and reliably.And that's 465 cc's compared to over 700.Take a 10 mil DM which goes up to a 78 bore, won't even be close....Now, of course I'm talking aftermarket cylinders without turbos, nitro, etc. Just methanol.Put a large caracal, scimitar or large twister motor in compariable cc's (700 to 800) and that raptor will never, ever even be on the same track. Untuned or not.

Start with 340 mains and 27.5 pilots. You already know you're choking the hell out of that motor both on the intake (carbs) and exhaust (Trail pipes) side of it. A true drag port will respond well to a CPI pipe and 35 to 39PWK on gas or 39 on alky.... Are the cylinders ported for the 4 mil crank?

That...is flat out sweet!!

I know this is easy to say, but hard to practice...but if a methanol bike runs off on you the best thing to do is pull the clutch, upshift as many gears as you can, STAND on the brake(s) and floor it then dump the clutch to kill the motor.

I can tell you for sure it's not Laker or Fullbore. Most of the aftermarket fiberglass makers have no holes for the radiator....I know, I know...you said plastic. Beats the hell out of me....

I've used the Magnum clutch basket in my bike going on 4 years now. Tough as nails, well built. If their radiator is anything like their clutch basket, it may not be pretty...but it'll get the job done!

I need to become friends with you guys....can you occasionally have some extra methanol on hand, just in case? I understand....

Are they beating some of the fastest banshees out there? Not even close. Depends on what you mean as a "banshee". Banshee based motor? Not even close. If you're talking stock type bikes, like piped, jetted, ported...yep, give them a run for then money and sometimes beat them. But once you get into aftermarket cylinders, stroker crank shafts, etc...the 4 strokes are still a long ways behind.

No offense, time to read up on a few quick and easy mods. Oversized pistons should be used if you blow up a motor or it's worn out. Only to the next needed size to get the bore to piston clearance within spec. I agree, V Force reeds are a total waste of money unless you have a strong port job and/or a drag motor. The timing plate is a cheap and easy mod, but you need the correct thread in flywheel puller to do the job. +4 is the most common timing increase for near stock or stockish motors, is safe and yields good results.

Fine point indeed. Without knowing the compression ratio AND timing...hard to say. Compression ratio and timing dictate the need for higher octane, NOT cranking compression. If you go by cranking compression, you're only guessing. I'm not sure I understand "want to run mainly pump gas". You either run race fuel or pump gas....unless you want to switch domes and timing when you switch fuels.

It'll probably raise you compression to around 180 or so PSI. What is your timing at? Don't be afraid to crank up that timing. With race fuel and the domes you have I'd be going 9 to 10 on timing...

Without knowing your compression ratio, it's hard to say. I think a stroker dome with 21cc or 22cc would be safe for pump gas.

On some of these aftermarket clutches the fibers and/or steels are thicker than stock. I line my adjustment up to where the arrows are just about to meet. In other words, if you were looking down the left side of the bike from sitting on it, the arrow will start to disengage just before it hits the arrow. Pancake bearings are a pain to adjust, but a necessity in my book.

get yourself a good digital micrometer. Measure the tip of the needle to the brass insert on the slide where it threads in. Start with 48mm length. Any needle will work to get the bike to idle. Warm the bike up, and wrap the throttle 3 to 4 times real quick. It should be crisp and clean, not blowing a ton of raw fuel out the pipes (a little is ok for methanol) If it's blowing raw fuel out, turn the needles out 1/4 turn at a time until it's revving clean. Then you're done. Remember, the flat side of the metering rod MUST face the engine, so once you make the needle longer, push the needle up and turn it so the flat is facing foward, you'll feel it "click" back in place. Keeping these needles the same length is critical. I get mine within .02mm or so of each other. Then, turn the power jets all the way open. Keep turning them in until it pulls nice and hard. That's your safe point. If you go too lean on the metering rod..it'll surge and feel "tinny" and rev funny....1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time is what I'd recommend. Just use the two outside screws on the carb tops until you get the needle set, then use the third to fasten it (in front of the cable) On my 10 mil cub, alky, with Packard Lectrons same carb as yours but bored to 41.3, I believe each of my needles are at 47.3mm or so... It's crisp every time out...

Hardest (longest) part about changing a fuel valve is draining the gas from the tank. You can cheat, take the tank off, tip it sideways...but you'll have the best luck draining the tank (swish it around and get any debris out while it's off) and using brake clean on a rag to get a clean, dry surface. If you do got with a pingel, don't forget to use teflon tape on the threads of the fuel valve where it goes into the plate. You can usually find a used pingle for 50 to 60 bucks, and a new for 75ish or so. I saw stock fuel valve rebuild kits, however...on ebay for 17 bucks shipped just a week or so ago.

HJR has them for a pretty good deal, Herr Juggs Racing.

That's what I was thinking.... Toomey might make a great pipe, but that's about where their knowledge ends. A couple years ago, I had a back and forth with Stuart Toomey about pipes, jetting, setup...etc. He couldn't answer half the questions I had about setup... That "sonic reverberation" or so they call it happens in the exhaust pipe. I don't buy that "sonic wave" being bounced back in the intake tract....someone needs to clue them that's what reeds do...seal for the compression stroke and part way through the exhaust stroke. I guess if I needed to sell air filters as well as pipes...I'd try to come up with something that sounded good as well. I've rode my bike (before it was a drag bike, when it was just a stocker motor with T5 pipes, K&N Pods AND their 2:1 filter), with the crossover tube, with it plugged off, with Pods and with their 2:1 filter. Not a single bit of difference, period. I kept their filter around as a backup, for a long weekend of dusty trail rides with a group of 10 bikes....so I could swap filters after the second day instead of clean the pods. Sorry..I call BS. Now...if they want to talk about the "Sonic Harmony" from the exhaust pipe design and port timing, I'm up for that conversation. That's one of the principles pipe builders build to....

Who are YOU and what is your 2:1 filter?

I got a Dinli 50cc kids bike I'm hoping up that is gonna smoke that shee dawg....bring it on!!!! gangsta!!

Sorry, I'm just realist. The original poster was talking about racing a new YFZ, it was the YFZ rider's first time to the dunes an the banshee had paddles, the YFZ didn't. At that point, I'm not sure why the YFZ would even drag race..or the poster with the banshee and paddles would even bother giving us results. 100% totally pointless in my book. Guys... I just get tired of reading "My piped banshee is the fastest thing ever" I see them doing 120 MPH on ebay and all that stupid shit. Bottom line is the new breed of 450s have more power, less weight and with riders in close to equal skill and weight....the 450 will win every time, mod for mod against a banshee UNTIL you get into porting. Bolt on vs. bolt on....450...

Just because he's been riding for years....doesn't mean he has drag racing skills.

So you beat a bike on sand with paddles and the YFZ had stock tires... Uh....ok. Since they're the same bolt pattern...next time give him the paddles and you take the knobbies.

It ran great. But this was a 4 mil cub... I've always run a lot of timing in my bikes...not sure what it'll do for yours. My advice is put the plate on 1 or 2 and then go from there...