dajogejr

Oh boy...here we go.

Look...final answer, firehead is still the king of drag. Settled.

There is no general rule of thumb on carb size. It has to do with what is all done on the bike. If you don't know that...your guess is as good as ours.

Aha... Let me add this, however...poor track conditions effect the guy/gal next to you as well, though. Which leads to the tuner...it's their job to get the bike to work as best it can on the track. Shitty track or not... An engines true performance on a dyno is nothing without being able to get it to perform at the track. It is absolutely the responsibility of the tuner/rider to get just that. I agree with you wholeheartedly... But I look for the end result. And the end result...or the finish line if you will, is at the track. If you're only looking at the starting line (the dyno) you're missing out on what's ahead...

Also...you're running stock carbs. All the exhaust in the world isn't going to help when you're restricting how much air/fuel you can get into the motor... How aggressive is the port job? I think, and correct me if I'm wrong for making this assumption, but you want to bolt on a set of pipes that make power to beat your buddy with CPIs? If that's the case...you're doing it backwards. Pipes are the icing on the cake...not the main ingredients. Not trying to sound like an ass...just telling it how it is and being honest.

IMO...you're wasting money on them. By the rest of the mods in your sig...you're not really setup for them. If you were a strict duner/drag racers, I'd say go for it. It sounds like you're a trail rider that likes to play ride. Pipes alone wont' make you faster...but they could very well hurt performance.

I would answer that two ways. A. No. They go up and over the air filters (Pod type setup, actually very nice bends around them vs. a CPI or Toomey setup) and B. With Shearer inframe pipes, you have no business running an air box. They are top end drag style pipes, inframe or out of frame. If you need an air box where you ride, chances are an inframe drag pipe is not the correct choice for your type of riding.

Ok, now I'm lost. Correct me if I'm wrong. Say two bikes, identical weight, setup, etc. One has 110 HP, 65 Ft. Lbs of torque. The other, 120 HP, 55 ft. lbs of torque. Which one you think wins? I'd bet the one with more torque does. But it has less power... I know I stated ET and MPH are the best measures of performance...because...uh, I stated it. Like I said, when a dyno passes me on the track, then I'll put faith in that number. Until then, as I've said....it's a tool to use to tune your bike, only your bike and on the same day/time/atmosphere. It has zero bearing on a bike vs. bike or dyno vs. dyno when it comes to results on the track. Unless there is a drag racing league that doesn't compete anywhere other than a dyno room, which..if there is, I'm unaware of it....you absolutely HAVE to include the variables such as track, setup, etc. It is absolutely 100% fair to introduce these factors. Moreso because they are more of a factor than a number on the screen. Maybe we're saying the same thing in a different way, I don't know...I just know some of the fastest bikes in the country start off on a dyno, but get tuned in at the track in the real world. Maybe that should be a new show. Pinks, all out...Dyno Edition....

I use this stuff, can get it at Murray's/Orileys, Auto Zone, Pep Boys. It's a semi-drying liquid gasket, exactly what yamabond, hondabond or threebond is. This works fine....and is readily available. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/72/12556/ITEM/Permatex-MotoSeal.aspx?SiteID=CSE_GBase_072&WT.mc_ID=80003&zmam=88421133&zmas=1&zmac=2&zmap=12556

(Sorry...edit not working again correctly) This post goes along with my posting on the king of drag motors found right above or below this post. All that HP in the world doesn't equate to squat on the track if you're not setup correctly. If a bike isn't getting power to the ground, or is running out of gear....your ET and MPH will suffer accordingly.

I think that is probably about right...a bit off on MPH and ET...but not by much. And it's possible it wasn't geared right either. 887 feet is an ODD distance to race on pavement. Normally it's 660 feet (1/8mile) or 1320 feet (1/4 mile) Maybe it's the Metric System...LOL. I know this... My bike is in the 120HP range. I'd say give or take 7 HP either way. I have a very, very common motor around here, and the guys that have dyno'd their bikes here are from 115 to 130, depending on where you go, etc. Bikes similar in build to mine in 660 feet run mid 6's at or around 100 MPH and mid 10's in the 1/4 at or around 120ish MPH. Again, that's a rough estimate based on my friends that have run the pavement. I never have on my current bike. Considering 887 feet is about 100 feet short of being inbetween an 1/8 and a 1/4 mil strip, as is that time...(albeit a little on the slow and high ET side) it's in the ball park. Maybe he wasn't geared right and ran out of gear early, maybe his tires spun like hell and he wasn't getting full bit for a good ET or MPH.... It's not that far off, but does seem a bit slow.

If you can convince me that the bike with more HP always wins, I'd see your point. It's a fact a smaller motor with less HP can and has beaten a bigger bike with a bigger number. If you say the bike with the less HP has a better setup and better rider, you're proving my point. If you say a HP number is the true measure of performance vs. an ET and MPH....then you live in a hypothetical world, whereas I live in a real one. And last I checked, any form of organized racing was based on 1st place finishes based on ET, speed, etc. Not by how much it read on some screen. Regardless...I'm glad this thread has remained civil, no put downs or personal attacks. Your opinion is yours, and mine is mine...simple as that. I just agree to disagree...that's all!

Again, I respectfully disagree. I will agree it will give you a rough starting point. Beyond that, it's all tuner and rider (as you said)... If any number on the dyno translated to exact results on any given track at any time....You'd be dead on right. But it never, ever does. It can give you a baseline...or best "guesstimate" starting point at best. That's it.

This is where I'm coming from. An engines true capability means nothing on a dyno. It's true capability is measured at the track....and the engine is only one piece of the puzzle. Saying an engines true capability can only be accurately measured on a dyno is false IMO. And I gave reasons why it's false. Sorry if I lost you in my reasoning. And cc for cc, a two stroke will always be faster...unless the 4 stroke crowd pulls something out of left field that revolutionizes engines. But...it's been over 100 years. So..I don't see that happening any time soon even with the technology we have today.

I used to do it. It handles fast turns much nicer, keeps it planted on the ground. It does reflect the bumps back to the bars more, as said. The only thing you need to be careful is turning it lock to lock...at full turn, the inside tire can buckle and cause issues....it's more of a problem when you're pushing it backwards, just word to the wise.

The right side having 5 more PSI could be a sign too (with tranny fluid in the cylinder, it'll seal more and cause a little higher reading)

Sounds like the crank seal is seeping tranny fluid in the right cylinder to me. The ignition side and lighting side of the stator are separate. Just because one is working fine doesn't necessarily mean the other is. Since you swapped leads side to side and it did nothing, it's not the coil or coil end caps. Bad stator or crank seal is my guess.

No rubber boot on the carb will not cause this. I've run mine for years without a rubber boot. 6th gear in dunes/sand? My guess is it ran out of fuel. Stock carbs? Stock fuel petcock? Stock fuel line? Just because the jets are getting it enough fuel under normal riding doesn't mean there's enough fuel in the bowl after a long WOT run to supply the motor. I'd be checking the screen on the fuel valve, possibly checking the gas cap check ball assembly as well.

I disagree, respectfully, for a couple reasons. 1. Just because an engine makes a ton of HP on a dyno, doesn't translate into good numbers at the track. And vice versa...a lesser motor can run faster at the track if setup correctly. A dyno does not take into account chassis setup, gearing, etc. There is more to measuring a bike's performance in a race than just the rider. 2. If take my bike to a dyno here in MI, say it reads 120 HP. You take your bike to a dyno by your hourse, it reads 100 HP. Does that mean mine will beat yours? Nope. 3. If we both took our bikes to the same dyno, ran them back to back in the same conditions...it still doesn't mean the bike with the higher HP will win on the track? No. Again, setup, weight AND rider ability determine that. Throw into that mix track conditions, temp and surface can change throughout the day, let alone week after week.... So...I stand by my theory a dyno is ONLY a tool to measure a single engine's performance with different mods on that given day. Comparing Motor A to Motor B on the same dyno, same day, same conditions doesn't mean anything, it's only a number which doesn't transulate to anything on the track.

I couldn't disagree more. A dyno is good for tuning a certain bike on a certain day, that's it. There's nothing regulated about a dyno. You can make it read any number you want. Some measure at the sprocket, some measure at the rear wheel, some people run lower gears to get a higher number, you can play with the correction factor... A dyno is best for a single bike on a single day to tune, that's it. The track is where it's at... One of our members has it in their sig. When a dyno passes me on the track, then I'll worry about Dyno numbers.

The stock (short rod, 110mm) will rev quicker. The long rod (115mm) puts less stress on the motor. The longer connecting rod puts less stress by not wanting to push the piston through the front of the cylinder. The long rod 115mm is the more common setup when dealing with stroker cranks 10mm or under.

My advice would be to remove each carb separately, clean it...then put it back on. Don't want to accidentally swap carb bowls or slides...and remember to replace the choke tube.

As said, a lot of what iffs in the thread. That being said...if the rider weights are somewhat close, your porting is up to par, and you get a decent launch, it should be no problems. This race will be won out of the hole...

I have UPP, I had boss. I have the UPP without any holes for the crossover tube. I haven't used one in years. Yes, you'll need reed spacers unless you want to bend down your clutch actuator arm and grind off some of the drain plug bolt for the carb. Otherwise, it will hit. And as said, just because it's new, doesn't mean it won't leak. I use a thin coat of RTV on both sides of ALL the gaskets. The spacers won't effect performance. Keep in mind the intake/reed cage is part of the overall combustion chamber and need to be sealed correctly.

What..no love for Magic Racing? You guys are really kicking the MI economy in the dick...LOL. I use Magic Racing because it's 30 minutes from my house, I pay tax and shipping (6.99 for ground) and have it to my door the next day.... I've never actually bought from RMATV. I get my stuff from site sponsors or friends who race. I've gotten a LOT of parts from Jeff @ FAST over the years.