dajogejr

I've yet to see anything concrete (via dyno pulls or track ETs) to state one setup delivers more power than others. As said, a longer rod lessens the angle throughout the stroke and puts less stress on the rotating assembly, in other words...your crank doesn't want to push the piston through the wall of the cylinder quite as bad with less angle. In theory only, a short rod crank might rev quicker due to less mass...but again, that's only my theory...I've never read a dyno pull or seen that proven at the track.

Uninstall your Antivirus program, turn off any firewalls. Surf porn for 3-4 hours and click ok or yes on every popup that comes up. That should F your PC up to where they'll give up cleaning all the crap off it. Make your wallpaper a FAT chick with flabby titties, that'll give the repair guys something to laugh at.

Just get a BIG Magnet. Turn it off...place it on top of the hard drive for a day. In order to delete critical files from the registry you might have to go in safe mode or go into the registry to allow changing/modifying system files.

Found mine JD...I knew I already took pics....

JOe, Go right back to Tyson and have him make you a wheelie bar mount for that arm. I run exactly what badass is talking about . front mounts to the lower shock mount, the back mounts above the pinch bolts on a plate.

Nice looking bike....!! I'm thinking I'm going rigid one of these days. 50lbs and 3-5 tenths in 300 foot of sand/dirt is not happening. Unless the fat guy is a TERRIBLE rider. Trust me, I know... 50 lbs is a tenth to tenth and a half... I got a friend that rides mine, he's 120 lbs lighter than me, gets him 3-4 tenths on my bike in 300 foot. I can't tell you I have the fastest 10 mil in MI, I can tell you I have one of the most if not the most consistent....

As said, we can only give you a baseline...final tune is on you. I ran that jetting for a year, even some cold weather. The cub was from FAST cleaned up. I hotlapped it at the track, through the dunes, etc. Never had an issue with them...and sold them at the end of the season in perfect shape. We're lower elevation as well...

Hopper and I should be there around noon or so. We'll rope off a big enough area for all our crew.... They have classes for everything!

I did change the tranny fluid in my 10 mil....today, if that makes you feel better. Oh, and I swapped out the plate on my trailer, put it in my name today...

I've got my grille and my floor boards from JD...I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow, I'll get pics up later today!!

He did...and here was my reply for other users as well. You'll have to fatten the pilot jets (to 55 or so), .120 on the dumps sounds about right. Probably start of with 3 sets of mains drilled. One set at .116, one at .118 and one at .120. The main can only flow as much as the dump tube is drilled. I honestly don't know what needle to run. Dan Hull @ A&S racing is the man with PJs on methanol. He grinds his own needles....he can probably tell you better than anyone out there. Also...when my buddy had his 34PJs done by Dan Hull, he also told him unless he had triple exhaust ports on his cylinders, he didn't need a power jet (an external adjustable jet that uses engine vaccuum to pull more fuel) While he is the man, for a little extra money I would rather have the insurance of Powerjets for more fuel.

I've found the jetting between 35PWKs and 39s doesn't differ very much on the same motor. 48 pilots, CEL needle, 152 mains to start you off. That's if you're less than 1000 feet ASL and normal riding temps....60's to 80s. You're fat right now on your jetting...but I bet once it starts revving out it pulls nice...it'll pull cleaner once you clean up the jetting.

If you just put it back together, do a compression test AND a leak down test. All the jetting and electrical advice in the world means nothing until both of these are done.

19.99...bought mine on TV... Easily 15 to 20K over the past 4 years. two different motors, two different frames, upgrade this, replace that, chrome, powder coat, etc....

I'm not worried about you...you get drunk and pass out before me.

I am 99% sure I'm sleeping in my truck. Running. Doors Locked (so don't get any ideas....LOL)

These are dual purpose guards. 7 year old guards and drunk old guy guards... Thanks again....he gets home from his dad's house today...he's gonna love it!!

I looked at the flyer, there's a 0-450 and 0-550 heads up pro tree class. That might be tough for you to be honest...unless you got a real light jockey. That's going against up to a 7 mil cub. I'm just over the 450... There's another stock cylinder motor, Jeff's that would be a good race for you. It used to be Pop's bike...and Jeff has it now. It's always been a good runner! If you need to get ahold of Dan Wade...you'll have to email him. http://patriotracing.net/ You can read up instead of me explaining it to you. Unless he's out of town, Dan is good at getting back to people pretty quickly! I think you should stick around for the party Friday night, maybe even try your hand at the gamblers race...then head home early Saturday. I promise the party Friday night will be worth it.

Joe...they have a ton of heads up classes. And you'll probably have one of the fastest 350 motors there....

As promised, here's the mini quad with JD's custom floor board/foot gaurds. They are mirror stainless, and I put grip tape on the bottom for the little guy...

No offense, don't take this wrong...but I agree, Dan and Tim are some of the best out there. That being said...why are you asking on this site when you could easily call one or both of them and ask them what they think. It's their motor(s)...let them give you the final say... What you're doing is asking a bunch of college guys, myself included...how to run a professional sport... Ask the pros!

I use RTV on everything, reed cage gaskets, base gaskets, head O rings....(that being said, I can't tell you the last time I used a stock style head with a flat head gasket). Years ago I had an issue with leaking coolant, air leaks...etc. No more.

Without knowing all the specs of your motor, hard to say. My top end got ported and freshened up over the winter...and it came out a tenth faster thanks to HJR. That's impressive to me. In the beginning of the year (all of 08 and part of 07) I ran Patriot Cut domes by Dan Wade. They worked, flat out. Many builders will tell you alky has a different flame propagation and having the correct dome cut for it will help. I believe them. Kevin @ HJR gave me a set to try...they were different. My bike still turns the same times. About midway point this year, I stopped trying to go faster. I concentrated on being consistent. WE don't heads up race here, we bracket race/index race. I can't tell you if the domes Kevin gave me run any better/worse than those from Patriot. In my opinion they run the same. I can tell you don't run a 16cc gas dome on a 10 mil on alky at our elevation...or you'll get 2-3 passes on the motor.... Joe, you'll need to know a bunch about your motor before any respectable will cut you a dome. Piston angle and deck height are just a few. I can tell you Dan won't just "blindly" cut you a dome. I liked that. I like when people ask me the right questions.... Speaking of asking the right questions....you better get your arse out to Ionia the 16th and 17th. Last race of the year. I have my Patriot domes, but they're 20cc and cut for a big bore...if they would do you any good I'd loan them to you. But...they won't work right for your motor.

I can assure you 100% that Athena is not making them from Vitos. Either the manufacturer that makes them for Vitos is making them for Athena, or...Athena got their hands on a set and is having the Chinese make knock offs of them.

JD Made me a custom set of floorboards/heelgaurds for my pit bike/kids bike. Wait till I get them mounted up...they are absolute works of art!!