dajogejr

Don't know but someone put a LOT of time into those jugs.

I have to be honest here, I'm a big guy too (250 lbs). I've been doing this a few years. IMO...you'd be absolutely crazy to just jump into a 3 second bike. I would build a 4 or 10 mil cub to start out. Learn to tune it. Learn to ride it. Learn to set it up. It will be a much cheaper experience...promise. And tuned right a 10 mil cub will get you into the LOW 4s. On a stock cut chassis mine takes me into 4.2's and I've been 4. teens on two tracks this year. No one just jumps to the top of the heap or food chain overnight...they learn through mistakes how to get there. There's the possibility you never get it tuned right, miss something, etc., and it scares you away or annoys the shit out of you to make you want to quit, as well... We've got a few people over here that have started, quit...are trying to get back in, etc., and it's because they don't have the patience...to be honest. I personally, would walk before I ran.

I'd use Pepsi...I hate to waste Coke. WD40 and a REAL fine steel wool as said, and finish it up with NeverDull. LOTS and LOTS of elbow grease too...it takes time.

Take MJ with you. Now wait, he's gone...no wait, he's back...then gone... The only reason he needs two hands is because they're little boys hands...and they're smaller, much smaller.

I wouldn't trust that lid on a stock air box any further than I could throw it. If it were an aluminum box...sure. My advice is get an outerwear cover, a pro flow kit and a single K&N filter. That box will warp and get shit in it...guarantee. You don't need compressed air. Just use the K&N Filter cleaner, let it soak for 20 - 30 minutes and rinse it off from the inside out with warm water. Hell, I use K&N Filter cleaner to clean the outside of my carbs, sprocket area, hubs, etc. It works awesome without a brush or sponge. Without knowing your elevation, rider weight, riding temps or who ported your motor or it's specs, all we can do is guesstimate. 280 to 320 mains and MAYBE a 27.5 pilot. I would leave the stock pilots in (25) and turn the air screw out 1.0 turns. If it won't idle or run well off the bottom, and you have to go another .5 turns in...then go 27.5 pilots. 190 to 210 are the stock main jets in stock carbs. 200 was stock from the factory but depending on the locale of your dealer, it could've been from 190 to 210. Unless you were in an extreme temp or altitude change, like Colorado or Alaska for example.

Here's two things I can tell you from experience. When you power coat a frame, run a quick tap through any and all holes. I don't care how well they're taped off. Second, use a thread lubricant/anti-seizure on each bolt as said. Stainless will gall with the slightest nit, booger, thread imperfection, etc. You absolutely must use some kind of lube or antiseize for each and every bolt. Oh, and I got fastner guy on my bike. I bought 4 kits at once, 3 banshee and one YFZ450 kit...got a little price break and break on shipping. Helluva nice guy to deal with.

If you swapped coils from one side to the other and it didn't follow to that cylinder, it's not the coil. Did you put the right carb bowl on the correct carb when you cleaned 'em? Start by checking the stator, ground wires, kill switch(es), pickup gap on the flywheel, etc. badassbanshee479 had a bike that would miss and hit on one cylinder and it ended up being a bad kill switch. Shit happens...

Once or twice a year, I'll take my cable off at the cases and the perch. Make a small paper funnel to get the oil in, and flush the cable out with WD40 or liquid wrench or tri flow, etc. Take apart your perch, clean it up, and add a few drops of oil to that as well. You'll be absolutely amazed what a difference it makes, and my bike only sees a groomed drag strip, not trails, dirt, water, etc. For 12 bucks, I replace my cable every year or year and a half. They can stretch...and it'll make you scratch your head even with a perfectly adjusted clutch, etc.

Do you have a Ricky stator stator? how about check your connections/grounds. I agree...small main as well.

One of our buddies runs a 6 mil cub....I can't tell you if it's a modded 4, 7 or 10 mil cylinder, but it does rip...that I can tell you!

I still say Amsoil is garbage... Roll with Klotz.

They may be different companies, but they are selling the EXACT SAME SHIT as Ricky Stator. Since they both get their shit done in China....you can expect the same results. You couldn't give me their shit unless you wanted me to make a video blowing it up or using it for fishing anchors. I have used just about every spark plug out there...and always come back to 2.00 a pop BR8ES for stockers and B9ES for my alky bike. One of these days, I will get my hands on some Nology Silver Plugs...just for giggles. I've tried Irridium, split fire, Denso, Platinum...just about everything.... As said, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc. I get mine from my good buddy Rich at Richard's automotive. Not only a local guy, but a supporter and promoter of our racing. http://www.richardsautoparts.com/

Gotcha... The most common 10 mil is the 115 rod small pin, in which case you don't need welding, but you already knew that. Be careful when you weld the cases, they can warp on you and that will screw up your sealing/mating surfaces. WCR makes a new "extreme dunable" which I haven't seen yet...but he's willing to warranty it for a year no matter what. He'll have to get your shift forks as well. For TT racing, that'd be the route I go.... In my opinion, once you get a properly cut tranny, you don't need the bearing on the end of the drum. If that drum was spinning around and round...I'd say go for it. But...it's not...

Changing out clutch basket/crank gears is no walk in the park. He'd be much better off to carry 2-3 different front and rear sprockets.

You're wasting your money on all of that. The RZ Drum has a roller bearing on the end. What Whitaker does to the drum is the same thing....for a banshee. The machines down the end and puts a roller bearing on it. Getting your stockers welded and cryo is a total waste of money IMO. Unless you're putting in a big pin rod or a longer than 115mm rod, there's no need to have them welded... You're getting an EZ shift cut, not an override...correct?

You can safely add 10 to 15PSI if not. You start jacking the compression way up, it's going to take away from top end (the motor is fighting itself) and you're gonna put undue stress on the bottom end and bearings....

If you don't mind buying a few more sprockets and testing out different size tires...I say go for it. But your setup will be different than anyone else's...which, would me a bit longer learning curve!

People post VINs on ebay all the time. All that would do is give a potential buyer peace of mind it's yours, not stolen...has a clean title, etc.

First post and you're selling this? What is your Ebay ID? What is the VIN on the quad?

That, or the threaded end is not as long as the spark plug or he tested it incorrectly....

Two things about cutting an RZ Tranny. One, they are becoming more scarce than banshee trannies. If you have spares, keep them. Two, the ratios. If you're ok with that...move on. We've cut RZ trannies for override in a banshee based motor, no biggie. The only reason I'd do it is for the ratios...especially if I wanted to run 1/8 and 1/4 mile. You wouldn't have to run as exotic of sprockets (read...expensive sprockets...)

I'm watching the fight on MMA Scraps right now. Everything I've read so far has said shogun won and got robbed point blank. I'm glad I didn't pay 60 bones to watch the fights.

Most newer computers will shut themself off if they a. get to a certain temp, or b. detect a failed fan or a fan running below a certain RPM. They actually put a few thoughts into building these things....LOL.

One way to find out.

It's only funny because I do computers and networks for a living. When somebody screws a computer up, they get a porn pop up, etc, it's always "somebody else was screwing around on my computer"... Mmmm...ok. No one looks at porn, but it's a billion dollar industry because of "the other guy/gal" who used the computer. I just play dumb, take their money...and wait for them to do it again. I tell everyone the same thing. Look, I can put a big nice steel door with a bunch of pad locks on it at the front of your house. It'll keep people out. But...if you're the dumbass who leaves the front door wide open and unlocked in a bad neighborhood...don't cry to me when you get fucked up. Pay me....see ya next time around...