dajogejr

That's not the exact math...but I'm hoping another member can post up the math on that. You can't take the size of the carb and just double it....

Bone stock machine and a lot of drag racing/sand....one to 3 seasons. Pipe and jet it, one season of hard abuse, keeping the tranny/clutch oil changed every few rides. Stock clutch is designed to handle 33 to 35HP...which, it does pretty well just putting around and trail riding. sand robs power and clutch life, as does drag racing. Throw in some simple bolt on mods...well, you get the point. When you're ready for a new, call Jeff @ FAST. His clutch with 3HD springs, 3 stock springs held up all last year with my stock motor, pipes, timing advance and pod filters. It also held up all this year with my cub motor (twice the HP of my stocker) with 6HD springs.... I have no hesitation to put it back in use now that I'm building an alky burning, override/lockup bike....

It depends on what size domes you get... Stock would be 22cc.... Depending on your elevation, I wouldn't go smaller than 21 and use pump gas.

I'd say you're probably 1 to 2 size rich. You're in the fine tuning now. You want a 2mm brown or tan smoke ring. You are very close. I's say if you're expecting a HUGE temp drop, like 50 degrees or so, leave 'em in. But...if your climate is consistent, and this is what they look like with 155's in there, I'd go 152 and then 150 on the main. One of those two should be spot on. Then, clean up the pilot/air screw.... I think you should try 48 pilots, and play with the air screws to see if you can get ideal throttle response....

You'd probably have the best luck with and LT500R motor. Dr. Q over on PS does some amazing work on those motors, too. who knows, he might have one laying around...Stu.

Hard to say...start with that. You need a good quality tester, not a cheapy special from an auto store. Sears/Craftsman sells a quality unit for 60 bucks, which...will do just about any small engine or car. Next, warm the bike all the way up, remove both spark plugs, thread the tester in...hold the throttle wide open and keep kicking until the gauge doesn't go up anymore. It could very well and often does take 15 to 20 kicks.....so....KEEP GOING until it doesn't move. Repeat for the other side....post what you come up with.

First things first...it's cold, you probably haven't bought fresh gas for your YZ in a while. in your list of mods, race gas is not only a waste, but it may be hurting performance a tad. Try fresh pump gas, mixed at 32:1. With a FULL air box and pipes, I'd say 280 is more than a safe start even for our cold midwest winters... (Yeah, it's getting nippy here too boys!!) Mullet...if I remember correctly, you have NO airbox, just a hacked up stocker with only the very front left over, so...basically a non-existent airbox....am I correct? Generally speaking, a piped shee with full airbox and lid in normal riding temps goes 260 to 280 on the main, stock pilots. Piped shee with airbox, no lid 270 to 300. Stock or 27.5 pilot. Piped shee, no airbox pod filters, 320 to 350. 27.5 pilot or 30... This is at or near sea level, average riding temps 65 to 85 degrees or so.... My rule of thumb has been 1 main jet richer for every 25 degree drop in temp or so. SO...our bikes jetted for summer riding normally want 2 to 3 sizes larger mains when it gets chilly. Often, gotta turn the air screw in .5 to 1.0 turns...and, sometimes bump up the pilot if you were already only 1 turn out on the air. Hope this helps...

Do a compression test before you think any more about it.

You must have an old ass one. I got mine earlier this year, and it came with a U shaped bracket that lined up with the stock holes, it's like a strap. I got my plate last night from Steve. I'll be cutting my frame and PC'ing before I put it on, though...since I run no lights, I'll be using the regulator holes for my coil, possibly. Still not 100% sold on if I can keep them that close together and not have issues.

On the bottom of the slides, there is a 1/4 moon shaped cut away. That needs to go to the back of the carbs...towards the airbox/air filter.

Yeah, not trying to get you down...but, I had the same intentions. Was going to keep stock carbs and T5 pipes on my cub motor, stock ignition, and just put a 6 over on it.... Ride some wide open trails 20% of the time, the rest of it drag and dune. Now...it'll never see trails again... And that same motor your building is what I had before my teardown, plus 35PWKs and Shearer inframes. I rode it, rriggs, badassbanshee479's little bro and my buddy Bob have all rode it out at Silver Lake. NONE of them could shift it with any consistent results. It don't shift for crap on a stock tranny, stock clutch setup (new basket, inner and outer this year, HD springs) and a modded shift star.

And Whining.....

What banner are you boys talking about? personally....I think you'd get better performance out of a set of T5s, FMF or Trinity Pipes than jumping in to a CPI or other drag pipe on a stock port motor. For the price, fit and finish....T5s are really hard to beat. They are great little pipes. Yeah, going from stock bike to just pipes, filter and timing...then properly jetting it is a HUGE leap. Those stock boat anchor of pipes rob you of so much power it's not even funny..

Call Jeff...he'll hook you up. Also...he sells taller cable adjusters and lighter springs so you don't get popeye forarms. Don't forget... with 35's you'll also need intakes and new air filters as well.... It's more than just carbs. If you already have your TORS removed and got the cable, and it's in good shape....just reuse it. The same cable works on PWKs as the stockers with the TORS removed...

150 dollar coil/wire setup to save a 2.00 plug? MM....ok. Jet your bike correctly...10 to 15 hours on a plug is just fine. 10 to 15 minutes would be a problem. I personally think they are a waste. Tried them on cub at Silver lake dunes a month or so ago (last weekend of October)... NO difference at all in my cub motor...and I have a Dyna ignition AND Nology w/ hotwires. Any plug can be fouled, period....

Let me promise you this...a properly tuned 421 will smoke a average build 450 all day long. My buddy and I just went through this. He has a 450R honda, put a 564 NMotion kit in it, pipe, cam...everything but a good port job...and I flat our wrecked him. He had high hopes....let's just say he's buying a cub'd shee when he has the funds, he realized what a properly tuned 4mil cub can do....

It really doesn't matter if the tranny is in good shape or not. Mine is in great shape. When you take a tranny designed to handle 33 to 35 HP stock, and triple that...it ain't going to shift very good, period. Get the override and lockup...or just leave it as is. I honestly think you're totally wasting your cash on a lockup without an override....

Yeah, if you're going to buy a new carrier AND swingarm...go roundhouse..you won't be sorry. Swingarm shop on ebay makes good stuff....at good pricing.

I was thinking the same thing...until I read all he rides is trails...and the machine is bone stock. Override for him would be like tits on a nun, total waste. That doesn't change the gearing ratio...which is more what he's asking. I think you're going to be wasting your time on this, trail riding the shee, unless you're ready to sink some money into it and the motor. You can gear it to where the it stretches each gear, but...because of the nature...you will be bogging as said in the beginning of each gear til it gets on the pipe. Adding a set of aftermarket pipes, good air cleaner, jetting it will help your cause. It will make it run stronger all around and pull each gear better and longer. If you plan on keeping it stock, though....sell it and get a 450. WAY more trail worthy all around.

Did you really ask your parents twice?? LOL!! Jeff's site doesn't have a shopping cart, it's a show and information piece. He is without a doubt...a people person and wants to talk to you before you order to make sure both you and he have the needs and order right. Can't beat that with a stick... 189.99 for VF3s is a smokin deal... Did you hijack the local parts truck and hold him hostage? Great deal...bump bump....

Had the same combo...10 paddle haulers, 6 over, 4mil cub on gas. If you're good on the clutch and practice your launch...you can control it at the strip...but, in the dunes....yeah, wheelie central just about any time you want. I rode stock gearing, 14/41 and launched in second. You're gonna want an override and lockup clutch for that motor if you plan on doing any real racing. You put that many ponies to a stock tranny...it ain't shifting. A dunable override is just what you need. There's a video of me launching mine at Silver Lake, one of the very few times I was actually able to shift through the gears (Lockup and Override on the way...)...in the Videos section. DG vs. JT I think is the name of it.

Ok. Question answered.

Depends on how aggressive the port is.

Bro... C'mon...you're splitting hairs over a few dollars now. If you buy that kit for 149.99..you're going to pay 6.00 or so for shipping off Ebay. Then, you're going to pay 5.00 for each of the wrist pin bearings or so... Would you rather trust a shop like Magic Racing...or deal with Ebay? If this was like a 20, 30 or 40 dollar difference, I can see. But at this point you're worried about saving less than 5 bucks any way you cut it. I'd go the magic racing route or motosport.com route....period....why trust ebay, despite his feedback record...when you can have a major player ship you parts?

I'd love to see one in person...and perhaps try it. Since I live in St. Clair Shores...would you like to meet up somewhere? I'm a few months away from having my frame cut and PC'd...but, I'd like to take a look at this. Also...I'm wondering if it would get in the way of the air filters and Shearer inframes. I'd like to use that to mount my fuel pump and CDI if possible...