dajogejr

Get the T6s if you NEVER plan on porting your motor, or only plan on porting it very, very mildly. Or, get some FMF fatty's or SSTs. They are all fine choices. I had T5s, loved 'em...but, I wouldn't tell you not to get 6's just because many on here read they don't work with porting but have no actual experience with them.... Either/any of these pipes would be a fine choice. Two filters and outerwears in sand work just fine and will continue to work fine if you keep them properly cleaned and oiled.

Wow....since we have the same name, Dave...I think we should both celebrate a birthday today.... Have a good one bro!! :beer:

Thanks to both of you, Bought my pipes and cub cylinder/crank and what I think are very fair prices, no run around...quick payment, very good and fast communication. Everything went better than could be expected. Thanks a bunch to both of you!!! Dave

You as well...Steve....I almost cried though when you told me the "plans..."...LOL.

SOLD to smkmupbanshee....paid. Thanks Steve...nice talkin to you boys!!!

Other may disagree...but, in my personal experience, the foam filter will flow more air when it gets dirty than the K&Ns will... Performance dropped off a little more (albeit very slightly) quicker from the K&Ns than the foam 1 into 2 Toomey...

I didn't have to change jetting on mine... I used both when I trail rode my shee on a long weekend trip, one got dirty, swapped with the other...didn't change my jetting a bit.

Ohm the stator to start, then...pull the flywheel and shake it, make sure the magnets inside aren't broken/busted up. Moisture from sitting normally effects a stator first, due to it not being sealed.

It is the one yearly mecca I make every year when they come to MI. I was really spoiled back in the double header days at the Pontiac Silver Dome... However...with RC out, I'm not very impressed with the new talent of riders. I"m not particularly a Stewart fan. Yep, he has talent, there is not doubt...and fast...Just not a fan of his.

At this point honey, I'd rather have the vikings than our Lions...(Even though they did beat the cowboys in the last regular season game.) Our Lions can't even lost the game they need to for a better draft pick. WHen you can't lose properly, you know you got it bad. If you're a Lions fan, you always have a "2nd team" to root for... I've been a Pats fan since the Drew Bledsoe and Bill parcells days...plus, Tom Brady is a Michigan Quaterback...so, it's all good! Plus, how do you argue when a Linebacker's name is pronounced "Brewski".... :yelrotflmao:

If you can find DG pipes for less than 200 bucks in pristine shape, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise, for 300 or less, you can find T5 pipes or FMFs, which...most will tell you will outperform and sound better than DGs. ANYTHING is better than stock, but if pipes are all you're gonna get...might as well get ones that perform a little better on a stock motor...just my .02.

Smoother, due to the power valve, but now you're talking even bigger coin for a Cheetah due to needing a new/special head, different reeds, etc. Plus, it'll still have a drag race style hit, just not as severe as a Cub. Cub or Cheetah, they belong in the dunes or the drag strip....

Another shameless plug to sell something I see...LOL. I guess this could be chalked up in the "FAST Racing helping someone" category...wouldnt it?

Dude...it's a 6 dollar item...plus shipping. Thinking like that is why you wound up with a broken L2..whatever the hell that is. ::

Yeah, I didn't even read who wrote that reply, If I would've taken that .5 seconds and seen you...I would've just chuckled and let it be... I gotta unplug from the computer for a while, I swear....

It's all good...I've studied my printout that came with it a dozen or so times.... I have it right in front of me. Curve 4 is stock. Curve 1 advances real early, but...dips lower than curve 3 at about 4500RPMs... Curve 3 is the most advanced...and curve 2 is in between 1 and stock. Curve 3 is advanced about 22 degrees from 3500RPM to 5500 RPM...then gradually goes down to about 16 at 10K and above,... Wish I had a scanner...LOL.

No idea...but, I think on non-holiday weekends you should be ok.... Each pipe is gonna be different, I'd say they're probably over 100Db or close to it.

according to the printout in the box with the dyna, NONE of the preprogrammed are less advance than the stock baseline, for a banshee anywho. I ran curve 3 (most advanced) and 8 degrees on my plate, giving me about 30 total degrees at the most advanced point.... Cub motors love timing..period.

Wow...this guy is in Clarkston, only 1/2 hour from me...should see what he wants for one of those radiators. Then again, my 4 mil wasn't close to overheating on stock rad, straight water and a billet impeller... The last one got up to 200 bucks or so... Toomey used to sell a bigger radiator, but...I don't see it on their site anymore...

You can get just the idle screws from Vitos...but, I still think you have to buy them in a pair... Doubt the stealership would have 'em... um...or not. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=372&page=1

I was thinking about putting a cub motor and reed spacers on my Honda Spree...will it still be good for trails? :: :shoothead:

There's a disinct difference in the two, out of the box. The dyna starts off with more than stock advance in each of it's three pre-programmed curves...but, as the R's raise, the curve dies down. Now...on a plate, your timing is increased across the board....no retarding the timing as the R's rise. I think you're just fine with the dyna and no plate. I already had my plate, and wanted all brand new ignition for my cub motor...so, dyna was my choice. When a dyna really pays off is if you have a dyno to use, a cable and programming software. Once I get my 10 mil put together, I plan on doing just that...to post up what can be achieved with a dyna using the pre-programmed curves, then what can be done with custom curves.... But, from reading your other posts...you're no where near a big cub build....just the dyna itself is just fine Casey...

I'm not trying to start a builder war, but I think Duncan's banshee work is over priced and outdated... I wouldn't pay extra just for their name on the motor. The chassis as decscibed sounds very nice...but you can get easily 70 plus reliable HPs out of OEM cylinders for duner, all day long...and it'll be easy yet a blast to ride. Lenny and Loren have been around a long time, and back in the day they may have made an impressive motor...but, banshee motors and tuners have come a long way...I think there are better choices out there, and probably 1/3 to 1/2 the price...

I'm sending this to my buddy...he's got more parts/motors laying around then Hef has cheap ho's at the playboy mansion...

I think it's time to do a compression and leak down test before you troubleshoot jetting any further. Do a search on leakdown test...a thread here shows you how to make a kit, or...PM Machwon on here, and he sells a very inexpensive kit to use as well.