dajogejr

Incorrect.... The same bike will have less cranking compression at a higher elevation than lower. Dome size is irrelevant. You lose roughly 10 to 18 PSI for every 1000 to 1500 feet of elevation...roughly. Big Red Rides at 7500 or 8500 feet, and he uses his own 16cc cut domes, to get him good compression. At or near sea level where I ride, I wouldn't even dream of running 16cc domes, it would put me into the 200's for PSI, and make my bottom end life very short lived... To answer your question, however, bada put it right. Compression check... There are NO rules, only educated guesses and guidelines. Here are the ones I go by, taking into consideration you run +4 timing. 150 or less, pump SHOULD be ok. 151 to 165, mix pump/race 165 or more, 110 octane, etc. Now...these are estimates. some may run more compression on less octane, some may run less compression on more octane. Bottom line is check the compression for a baseline starting point, and use a GOOD QUALITY tester, not an auto store el cheapo. Then, listen to your motor and check your plugs often.

Kinda pointless, since after a ride or two, carbon will be sticking to it, regardless how much you polish it. If you have more time on your hands than you know what to do with...knock yourself out. You could make sure it's nice and smooth with no bumps, dips, etc...but polishing it would be a waste IMO.

I set mine at idle, then again at 3/8 to 1/2 throttle. Once the slack is taken out of the cable (off idle) you should only have to measure it once, it shouldn't change once the slides are no longer touching the idle screws... It sure is a handy little tool to have..

Porting in a nutshell is having someone machine your cylinders, they change how air and fuel get into your motor and how it exits. Based on your input to whoever is going to port your motor, they will modify your cylinders accordingly for your riding types and styles. You mentioned balance..and ironically, you need to do just that. All the power in the world isn't going to do nothing without being able to get it to the ground and use it. Gearing, tire selection, swingarm length, suspension setup are all very important in maintaining that "balance"... Here's your best bet. First figure out how much money you have to work with, what your expectations are....and how soon you want all your stuff to be done. Then figure out how much you can do yourself, vs. what you need help on or having someone else do all together.... Then make some calls. If a builder talks down to you, treats you like shit or doesn't call you back, move on to the next one. It's your money providing their livelyhood, and the really good ones don't ever forget that.

Get a clymers manual. Disassemble and clean out the carbs, one by one, noting what size jets are in it. Buy a quality compression tester and see what the cranking PSI is according to Clymer specs on how to test it.

1gb and XP? You must have a ton of stuff in startup, printer software, music and download services...etc... Tell me you don't have Norton internet security, the biggest RAM hog of all!! Might want to go into Start, Run, msconfig Check your startup items, that'll help too. Shutting down the process in task manager is only good until your next reboot.

sorry...long gone....

You got a pic or a link as to what type of tool you are talking about??

8 paddles, no more. with that engine, tuned properly on a stock swinger, it's going to be a handful. I agree...+4 would be much more efficient...and safer..

I don't want to hear it. Any of you want to trade for the Lions? I know the Raiders had a rough season....but, at least you guys know what a playoff is in the last 2 decades....

IF being the key word there...count on it!! My 10 mil build/parts lists are coming along nicely!!!

You're in the ballpark...PM sent.

Stock cylinders? I'd advance the timing 4 to 10 degrees...see how the motor responds. What size swingarm are you going to run? The longer the arm, the more paddles are needed. Also, what kind of riding? More duning, or more drag racing..?

If that doesn't work out, I'm going to be putting together a 96 roller with title...minus shocks. Since you're gonna make it a project, I can leave the frame as is or powder coat it....your choice. Let me know if you're interested. This frame is A1 perfectly straight as well...

Would'nt have mattered. That 54 yard try by the chargers fell and hit the back of the endzone...even it if would've been straight enough... My buddy wanted the chargers, I'm glad the pats beat 'em. He said Tomlinson deserved a super bowl ring. Yeah, so does Peyton, and our beloved Barry Sanders sure as shit deserved one...Tough shit...he he...

To be 100% honest, no I have not. My good friend has a Snap On tool...and I've always used his. I won't trust a cheapy....but, I think Craftsman is a brand I'd trust. I do plan on buying one one of these days...but, 60 bucks can buy me another part for my new build...LOL. Remember to add a few LBS if the adapter doesn't thread into the cylinder as far as your spark plug. At 140ish compression, as long as your timing isn't cranked WAY up....pump gas should be fine if your jetting is correct!!

Are you interested in a complete A Arm roller, minus shocks? I think I'm going to put my +6 stock carrier swinger back on mine, clean up the frame (just clean up a few old brackets, like stock pipe tabs, etc.) and get it powder coated. I have a mint, straight 96 frame with clean/clear MI Title.... I'm toying with the idea... jankab has the frame at his house, I was gonna cut it...but, I think I can get more money out of it as is, PC'd...as a roller. Besides, I'm going cut J Arm for my 10mil... Any interest? I think it'll be a few hundred for shipping/crating to CA.... (Duh....my frame is in my sig, just click on it for a larger pic....)

Yep, you are WAY fat on the pilot, and a little rich on the main. If you removed the airlid, your main would probably be a hair rich, not much, but your pilots are WAY out of reach!!

Similar... my old motor, 4 mil, Shearers, K&N Pods, 35PWKs, 500 to 750 feet above, I ran 150 mains, 48 pilots, CEL needles, mid clip. When it was cold @ the dunes, I opened my powerjets to 1.0 turn out to be on the safe side...ran good!!

Viagra..... I'm even more of a dick now than before...LOL.

Some people do enough to keep 'em on hand, some will just want your core to cut. Depends on the shop. I sent Jeff @ FAST my core and got back a whole new drum, gear set, etc. (Not new...different, sorry...) I've looked at a normal 1-5 cut trans and dunable 1-5 cut...not much difference in the cut of the actual gears. It's in the springs, really....

Sorry JD...just parsed this thread again. I think with 29mm carbs, FMFs are a better choice. If you wanted to get a drag port, then larger carbs...CPI or Shearer would be a good compliment. But...I think you're fine with FMFs...to be honest. Yeah...I might have my 10 mil done sooner than thought....hopefully we get some ice!! JMD...you bring up an interesting point. Normally, you want a tighter squish and more compression (smaller domes) when you go bigger bore....there is more piston surface to compress the mix, why did you get 24cc's for your .080 and .100 motor? Just curious....not trying to be a smart ass at all....

I agree 100%. Unless you're running alky through that bike, I've never had to use larger than a 30 pilot... Stock pilots should be just fine, I don't know anything about that moose needle....I'd say go back to the stocker, or get the Toomey/Dynojet needles or the Vito's Needles....

That 60 dollar Craftsman kit comes will all the adapters you need. Keep in mind, Tony...unless the adapter that screws into your head has the same depth as an actual spark plug, your reading will be low a few lbs....

A. Do a search....this has been beaten to death. There is such a slight difference in power between these two pipes....that other factors will make the difference, NOT the pipes. Rider weight, gearing, proper tune of the bike, traction, rider skill....all of those will provide more input than pipe choice alone comparing just those two pipes.