dajogejr

Exactly.... I have no idea how opened up a K&T port job is. My guess is 35PWKs and some CPI or Shearer inframes. The only thing I can tell you is this...though. With a shearer pipe, it's a lightswitch. You're either on or off the pipe...no bottom, no mid. So...as long as you can shift it and keep it on the pipe...that would be my choice.

I just went into paypal, and I looked as far back as Jan. 1, 2004. So...they keep records, you just have to input the date range. I don't know where anyone is getting this 1 year of history bit. So...that being said... Neither the buyer or seller has any excuse for not being able to go back far enough to research transactions.

Yep...you got a 1 year warranty. I ran a std watt on mine all last year, ran fine. First time out with it this year on a new build motor, it took a dump. I found my receipt and sent it back to them, one week turn around time back to me from the day they received it....no questions asked. That being said...I keep my stock 96 CDI and a stock 96 Stator in my parts box on trips "Just in case..."

If it was a direct drive cover, I'd have you a tracking number already... I'm gonna pass though...thanks anyways.

Actually...after reading this, I'm gonna pass. I already have a quick change, no lexan. And mine doesn't leak.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81509 Thanks anyways... And to be honest, I think it's BS you'd try to pass off a leaking part to other users without any mention of that...

Do you have a picture you can post of it?

I bet you could find one on ebay (new or used) or it'll pop up with a Google Search. I know Nac's Racing carries them, too.

Put me 3rd on the list for how much $$ you want...I can overnight you one.

Have you tried Rocky Mountain ATV? The only banshee axle that "won't" fit in the stock carrier or drag axles...

Stock cylinders ported by Eric Gorr... I know he moved to England, I heard he's coming back to the states. He has the best woods/MX port on a banshee cylinder I've heard/seen about. Now...the other question...if you're serious about MX...have you thought about a 450 four stroke?

Try posting pics...sounds like a rippen little play/duner bike!!!!

Are you using fresh plugs? Drop a 240 in there just for the hell of it...if it doesn't make any or much difference...as said, look elseswhere. Dumb question...but here we go. Did you put the carb slides in the correct carb (the half moon shaped cutaway needs to point towards the back of the carb, airbox side)??? Also...did you reconnect the choke tube between the two carbs?

Bike is up for sale, here's the details... http://detroit.craigslist.org/rvs/379540100.html

I know what you mean. Just think...JD, this time last year I was ok blasting around on a 4 mil, gas...no override, etc. Once you ride a bike with an override, you'll never go back... Big Power +Big Bike = Big Grenade when things go wrong... Old man John (not on HQ) put a rod through the front of his cases yesterday.... I can remember sitting there telling Roger last year, yeah...I'll never build a drag bike, I'll just keep mine a duner. Less than a year later...Bingo. I'm such a liar, I swear....LOL.

I don't blame you... I hit Port Huron last night for the Boat Night party...about 95 miles round trip...and I think it's about 240 or so mile round trip for me to Bobs.... On the way home I had to grab Starbucks before I fell asleep..... I know Tommy and Hopper are planning on hitting Albright for the 4th. Tommy's basket grenaded...so, I'm hoping he has time to get it back together! He might have put a hole in his case, but I'm not sure!! I should've let Dan take a spin on mine...and I was BEGGING Bob to ride my bike down the track. He rode my bike last year in dune form with my 4 mil on gas, no override....etc. You just really haven't ridden a bike until you've ridden one with an override!!! Be nice to see you at Bob's on the 4th...but, who knows...maybe I'll change my mind and make the trip to Albright with Hopper and Crew!!!

I assume you mean stock stroke cub jetting? Start with 160 mains, CEL needle middle clip, 50 pilots. Lean out from there...

Any year banshee...same motor since day one. The only real things that changed is after the first few years, they went from J Arm to A Arm front suspension. Little things, like wire/harness connections got changed over the years...everything is interchangeable...except the afore mentioned. here's the first few questions you have to ask yourself. Do you want to have a Duner that you bomb around on, Jump...and the occasional drag race...or do you want to drag race MOST of the time, and hit the dunes every once in a while...? Your answers can range from a 70 HP duner to a 130 or more HP drag bike.... Oh, and your wallet of course. A banshee is sand is very, very general...how do you plan on riding it....

Stock carbs have a tight bore/slide. I wouldn't go use 50 grit sandpaper, I prefer a medium to fine scotchbrite pad... Hit the outside of it, the bottom edges, etc. You're just smoothing things out, not going so far as to remove any real amount of metal...

While your jetting may not be spot on, it is NOT causing your detonation problems. You have a few things to look for. Air leak, cable not releasing the slide, stuck slide (I know you said it's not...check anyways...) If anything, your main might be a hair rich for running T5s, stock air filter and airbox with a lid. By NO means will it cause your bike to run away on you...you are overlooking something simple...and I'd bet it's something sticking...

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Simply awesome.... nice call fo sho!!! TTT

Another great time out boys!!! Can't wait to do it again in two weeks... I"m pretty sure I'll be at Clarksville.... I'm gonna try and drag Bob out again...as well. Shane, I gotta hand it to you...that little 4 mil of your flat out rips. I think you bested mine and JT's time today pretty handily.... Nice to finally meet you in person as well!!! Good time had by all and you simply can not beat the price or turnout we had!!!

Buy a new Oring kit. I never reuse the Orings, it's 20 bucks for a new kit, and covers ALL the stud rings, plate and cylinder orings. It's simply not worth it to me to reuse them. I'm a recent convert of how to put it back together... I used to RTV all the orings, slight coat. Now... A little grease on the dome Orings so they don't fall. Use a hair of RTV on the studs and tighten it in sequence (in the clymers) to 10, then 15, then 20 ft. lbs....in sequence. Warm it up, check torque again once it cools down.

Someone had some for sale here....but, here's what I would get if I needed them: Scroll halfway down. spacers, bolts, gaskets...everything but someone to come over and put them on for you. http://www.nossmachine.com/yamaha_banshee_parts.htm Also...pm majicmike. He might have spacers too...but I'm not 100% on that one. I do know he makes killer intakes...but, you don't want to get rid of yours...

I'll PM you my address...and I'll reimburse you for shipping, the very least I can do... I'm confused as far as what you're asking me on the crank, are you asking what I would buy if I were you, or what to buy to match the domes you have?? I would buy a 4 mil long rod crank.... If you're asking what crank to get for those domes...you'd get a 4 mil crank on a stock stroke cylinder...if they are stroker domes, they're designed to push the pistons slightly into the head.... However, port timings would be messed up. If you run the std. length rod, you need std. banshee pistons. If you run a long rod 115mm rod vs. stock 110, you run either a 795 series stroker piston or a blaster piston matching the bore you have... Does this answer your question???

Hmmm hot exhaust and plastic?? My money is on the exhaust melting it...LOL. Cascade sells thermal sleeves that cover the stinger tubes around the carbs/airbox that prevents this. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ Look under Banshee Parts & Accessories, then exhaust heat wraps....