dajogejr

Yep....I agree. Gotta start somewhere....and I'm on board 100%. It just sucks that it has come down to this...I've dealt with a LOT of people here and PS...both over the net and in person... I'd like to think we're all brothers and sisters with nothing but each other's interest at heart, but there are cocksucking scum bags out there no matter what ya do. I'm for it...maybe LEE can give us our own topic instead of using the Neutral forum...someone want to PM him on it??

Thinking of selling my Dyna Programmable ignition... It has a 95-96 wiring harness, but can be cut/soldered to fit any year....just match up the wiring colors. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it...I have two stock CDIs that I use, and I simply don't have the time to get to a dyno and tune this in for my drag bike. They retail for about 260 or so new, this has a season and a half on it... Thinking of 200 shipped, any takers? It still has the stock curves that came pre-programmed from Dyna in the box. It is for the ignition only , no software or programming cable. OBO...

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Oh...I'm all for a pitbull sodomizing these worthless fucks... However...the info is only as good as what people put into it. I have people PM me all the time, as I'm sure you do....to ask about dealings I've had with this member or that member... I've only had one bad dealing here, and it turned up to be over 2 bucks ...but it was the point...as always. I see your point, though...so, what can I do to help? (By the way...J...I'll be sure to give you 5 out of 5 stars for Butt Plug of the year ratings....) :yelrotflmao:

Good pricing....too bad they're X Ring chains or I'd pick a few up...

I had my stock head sand blasted, and I left it that way...it looked just like my cub cylinder... Obviously...don't hit the sealing underside....and clean the F out of it with hoat, soapy water to remove any sand/grit/dirt left behind.

Guys...we already have a Good Seller/Bad seller forum. As well as a neutral forum.... All you'd have to do is search for a user's name in that forum...if they're not in there, be weary...if they are...read up. Am I missing something?

Pancake bearing has nothing to do with shifting, it's so your clutch ball doesn't weld itself to the shaft. Don't get a modded shift star AND the shift pro...it'll skip shifts on you by accident...do one or the other.

Paypal will only refund your money if he has money in his account. I'm sure the scamming dickbag emptied the account. They will...however freeze the account. Hopefully they used a bank money order so the bank can help. If you bought a MO from Habib @ the corner party store...good luck. but you could always call the issuer of the MO to see if they could help, or at least report the fraud.

90....and If I remember correctly...some late year 90s' had A Arms... Sred...just buy the bike and build a dragger...you know you want to...LOL...

Try that with a methanol bike....there should be little to no coloring, no deposits... Methanol blows out the exhaust whatever it doesn't burn...

Package that drag bike with it and I'll give you 1999.95....plus shipping and handling...LOL... Yeah, I hear ya buddy...maintaining two bikes isn't easy.... Good luck to ya.... Free bump...

Very nice...Dan!!

Not a whole lot to go by... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=25201

Yep...as said, I've seen twice the bike for half as much. Throw an A&S Triple running low 3s on a drag frame, then he'd be in the ball park....

All depends on who does your drag port... I'd love to see you try and dune with a motor that comes on the pipe from 8000 to 10500 RPM....that's a real drag port.... If you don't mind running race fuel...you're set. Looks like a good combo... I ran a lightened flywheel on my stock port, stock motor with timing and T5s...and I loved it. I did NOT ride tight trails however, I duned, drag raced and rode wide open trails... I agree with -eman if you are gonna ride tight trails, stick with the stocker flywheel.... It does get on the pipe quick, the R's also fall faster with less weight to keep the engine moving.

Oh...just buy a four stroke...LOL. JUST KIDDING... I think a 4 mil setup, long rod...and a 1 into 2 33PWK setup would be a GREAT trail bike.... And blowit is correct...get the right pistons, don't cut the head....

I'd like to see that as well. Brad's said he hasn't rode his bike in sand yet, just dirt tracks...and he's running gas but thinking of going to methanol. Every video and post of Brad's...however, is him trying to figure out how to get traction. I'm not trying to start anything...but how do you know how much gear Brad's bike will pull without it being able to hook up properly?? My bike seems to get the best traction at the track on a freshly groomed strip. As the track gets a little chewed up...it starts spinning the tires pretty good...and my 60 foot times show it big time. Now the dunes...for some reason, is the opposite. It seems to me the more it chews up...the better it hooks. I'm not sure how much, if any...clay is at Bob's track. Then again...I have no lights or timers to verify that by...of course. It's according to my "butt dyno"...lol. Just goes to show you...what works one place doesn't necessarily mean it will somewhere else...

Gotcha...confused which bike you were talking about. I started by running 16/39 launching in first, now I'm at 16/44 launching in 2nd. I play with air pressure from 3 to 8 pounds.... As said, I'm 250lbs...no bar. This last time at the track, I ran 15 Extremes, ran my best time ever, best and consistent 60 foot...but I also changed the ignition and leaned the jetting. I'm guilty of trying too much at once... But my buddy that rode it at the dunes (and it was chopped up sand to say the least) said it hooked very, very well with 3PSI in the tires and he is about 200lbs. Don't know if this helps at all...

Ahh...I see you changed it a bit. My 4 mil was setup up more as a duner than a drag bike. I wasn't smart enough to put a lock up OR Override in it...and I ran a bone stock, uncut and unlightened chassis...gas...inframe pipes. With a 6 over swinger, 10 paddle normal haulers, 72ish rollout, I used stock gearing. I have one video of it....the far bike is me, the close bike is JT on a 4 mil, override, alky.....right before it went boom... Launching in second...he gave me the leave due to his tranny and alky. It ran hard for what it was...and what it didn't have... This was a wet sandy day, colder than shit (due to our gear...).....keep in mind Jim I'm 250lbs, so...I've got a few lbs to get to the tires...LOL... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=61...h&plindex=0 I've been to the dunes twice with my 10 mil build. Neither ended well..once I got my issues sorted, it's run good at the track all year. My good friend had it out at the dunes Labor Day weekend...I couldn't go. Several people at the drag strip a few weeks ago said it ran pretty well...

Jim...no bottle... I have that in my sig on E2S just as a joke...I've never put NOS to it...yet...LOL. I'm not sure what you're asking...or which bike. My 4 mil on gas last year, or 10 mil on alky this year.... And max gearing as far as what? How much does it pull, or how much do I feel it will pull (gearing combos are what I think you're asking...right?) I don't know the distance we play race at the dunes, but if I had to guess...it's probably around 400 feet or so. Maybe others can chime in to confirm or add to... Sand tracks...all three I've run at are 300ft.... So...that being said...how can I help you?

Snop...most of us run drag strips...300 feet. You'll barely see 5th, let alone never 6th... We run the same tires...probably just a few more paddles...

Most after market clutches are NOT offset on the steels, nor do the fibers use the rubber orings to dampen noise, either....

Lightened flywheel and advance the timing...they're under the ignition cover on the left side of the bike, won't be able to tell, should run 100 bucks for both or so...and is a big improvement....