dajogejr

Round 1...ding ding ding... Everyone and their brother is going to say T5...because you'll want to get it ported someday. Yet 98% of those people never rode a ported bike with T6 pipes, guarantee... You said bone stock...I say T6s and get it jetted. You really should get a better air filter, and remove the snorkel as well. It is critical you jet the carbs accordingly. The next question is setup. How long is the race? Dead Stop? What kind of surface you racing on? I know you said fields...but are you racing in dirt or grass? Once you pipe your bike and jet it accordingly...you could probably maximize you setup with a cheap gearing change, air pressure, suspension setup and practice, practice, practice... The bikes will be very close either way...unless he can't ride, or you're a 100X better rider...you're not going to SMOKE him, period. Unless you weigh 90lbs, he weighs 300lbs and can't ride for a shit... You'll never find a pipe that gives you more bottom, mid and top. That'd be like baking the cake and eating it too...just not gonna happen. Any one pipe has good characteristics...but falls short in other areas....

Let's hope for his sake it's a rubberized handle...LOL...

I used stock on my 4 mil on gas, 1st gear was useless...but, 2nd gear on was nice...when it'd shit...LOL. I've used 16/39 and currently 16/44 on my 10 mil. I know my bike will pull 17/44 no issues...

Compared to the 3 fiddy's he's talking about...421 is Big...LOL....

Tool box drawer....LOL... Let's see now, I need a 14mm, 17mm...and...Dan. That ought to work...

So...you can only sleep 3 1/2 people? (Sorry...I just had to....) :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Spend a few extra bucks (5 to 10) and get the clutch from Jeff @ FAST. If you don't have an extreme mods, use 3 stock and 3 HD springs, alternate them. get an ez pull lever and perch. It will last you a LONG time. I'm on my 3rd season with mine, from a bolt on stocker in 05, a 4 mil cub on gas last year (95HP or so) to a 10 mil on alky with override and lockup this year (115 to 120HP or so)...this thing still keeps on ticking...

Big motors with a lot of torque pull big sprockets..

Yep...i agree... However, unless you're running big motor or aggressive, real aggressive port job, 3 of each should be fine... That EZ pull lever with ball bearings is the shit, however...

If I don't go...you and JT can fight over mine. Rog....I know they're Honda Rims...but, I'm sure you could figure something out... http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread.../gonew/1#UNREAD

I'm pretty sure dynojet made the needles to "Toomey" specs... Well...that's what Stuart Toomey told me, anyways....

WAY too high... Guys around here run 160 to 180ish. Squish....that's another subject. There are a lot of factors involved in determining that. However...on my 4 mil and 10 mil, I run mid 40's...(.045 to .048 or so...) There's a real good thread on PS about squish, with several good builders and their input....

When I first put my 10 mil together this year, I never thought to check the compression or dome CC. They ran fine all last year on my cub, on gas....never though to check it. Well...I should've. I wasted two trips to the dunes.... 16cc domes on alky near sea level is a bad idea...LOL. I melted a ground strap once, other than that...I popped two orings, and backed out a lot of plugs. The domes are still perfect...although I did have them re-cc'd to 20cc.... Those pistons were fine, too...until my last round a few weeks ago.

I'd like to see what it does in say a 400ft run. I'm either winding out 4th or just clicking 5th before the traps....

Although I agree with Brandon, just for the sheer hell of it, make sure the vent tube on your gas cap is not plugged up. With a clogged vent tube, it'll die after a few minutes...as well. It's the little things like that that can cost you a bunch of money for such an easy fix. Hell, start it up with the gas cap loose and let it run...if it still dies, it's not the venting of the tank...

I wouldn't count on that. Rich from Richards auto is promoting the event, he's a truck guy, big time...as are his buddies. 9 hours is HELL of a lot of T&T. But...I got a feeling, they're going to be grooming the track quite often due to the big guys.... I'm just hoping I can afford to make the trip!!

I can tell you the head won't always show signs of deto... My 10 mil just deto'd a piece of the piston off, just above the ring land on the intake side. The head is 100% perfect.... I had a few top name builders tell me the same thing, deto...after looking at my pics. HOWEVER.... I also thought I was getting enough fuel, I wasn't. And I could hear anything abnormal, either...

IF funds allow, I will be there early.... I'll call ya next week when I know for sure! I PM'd ya my number as well....

yeah, I've tried gearing changes, you saw the post about the piston from leaning it out...etc. I have only gotten it to go 75MPH one time, a 4.303 pass... Every other run I do...72.5 to 74 MPH. I've tried other paddles, different gearing, etc...so, I'm no longer concerned with MPH. I'm Going for ET and working on a consistent reaction time... For a 250LB fat kid on a stock cut frame without a wheelie bar, I'm happy. We got a few 4 mils over here, similar setups that run pretty much the same or similar times and MPH as well...

Mine hits 74 MPH....in 4th gear in 300ft...of sand...LOL....

Yeah, that'll do it. Then put the bigger jets in so you don't lean it out and melt down. I can tell you for sure 220s are too small for your mods...

Wait...what what what? I thought wheelie bars are for sissies.... :biggrin: I'm trying... Already got a dog sitter, gotta get my motor back together, pay bills...and see where the money stands. I'm hoping at the very least to make the Test and Tune all day....if I can do that, I'll be happy.... If I don't go...JT...you can get your ass over here and borrow my tires (just bring me some to put on the bike to move around the garage...) Or...I could probably get these to Hopper or Tommy...

No...there is a rubber hose that connects one carb to the other. It bridges the choke circuit...if you look at the left carb with the choke knob, draw an imaginary line from that point through to the other carb. There should be a small rubber hose connecting the two stock carbs....the right carb does not have a choke knob, so the two share fuel for the "enrichment" or choke circuit.... Gotta have that hose in place.

Sorry Travis...I just remembered this, went out to the garage and ruffled through the bottom of the box and my stand up tool box. can't find it.... However, I did find a bunch of other stuff I forgot I had....so I assume the next time I have to look for something, I'll find that fuel valve as well. And I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night...

You should have a little slack in the cable....when you turn the bars lock to lock....you need a little wiggle room. When the throttle is completely closed, the idle screws adjust the height of the slides. I always turn each idle screw (TORS Removal kit) until I can just barely see it raise the slide. Then I turn it two full turns in to raise the slide for idle. Then...using the adjuster on top of the cap, set these to where the slides pull (open) at the same time. It's very tedious, and I've spent 20 minutes getting them as best I can by eyeball. You may have to turn the idle adjustment screws out 1/2 to 1 turn, but that's a good start. Jeff @ FAST sells a syncrometer that you stick in the bell of each carb while the motor is running, it measures vacuum, and you can set the idle and carb sync with that as well..a very handy tool to have.