dajogejr

Cases, Yamabond...every time (or 1104...same stuff) I use RTV on every thing else....but I have a stock head cut and Oring'd...and a cut. Paper gaskets only for the base...yamabond for the head.

You think...or you know? Thought you had Pro Circuits duals on there now....? reed spacers are worthless unless you have stock intakes and bigger carbs to clear the clutch arm...

Yeah...OK....sure thing. Are you talking slopping the shit on, or thin...skim coast to fill voids... I agree...too much is too much, but a thin coat is all I use and have had no problems for ALL KINDS of motors, big and small...for years, period.

Start with 300 mains, probably fat...but safe/close. Middle clip or 2nd clip down from the blunt end if it's "blubbery" from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle... I don't know how much fuel Trinity's motor likes on the pilot. I'd leave the stockers in....and leave the air screws at 1 turn out.

You're right...you're not my homie. Nor are you someone I care to help anymore...with your piss poor, poor me bleeding heart sob story. I can understand about being anxious about riding your bike...I go weeks on end and have a TON of money poured into mine...that doesn't give you the license to be a dick... Good luck...

Chris...why are you selling these? they will work fine for your motor...

i'm confused as to what all is done to your bike. Please list your mods, ALL of them, your riding temps, your riding elevation...and rider weight. Those plugs are lean... Dial in the mains first...then bump the needle as it needs to be. could be lean on the main and rich in the middle... I'd go up 4 sizes on the mains from whatever they are here, IF you keep all the rest of the bike the same (airbox/filter/lid/exhaust, etc.)

Slow your roll, homie... You gave people 24 hours to respond...no one here is on call, some people actually have to work, too.... There are plenty here to help...just have to be patient a little bit.... 270 with pods is way too lean...you're gonna pop that motor as said. If you plan on running the air box with no lid, 280 to 290... If you're gonna run a lid, I bet it'd be fine with 270 in there.... With that much desert riding, be sure to get an outerwear to filter some of the dirt/dust you're gonna encounter, they do keep your filters cleaner longer. Jeff @ FAST sells a tool called a sycrometer. You'll probably have to remove the airbox to sync the carbs, but it will get your sync spot on.... http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59

All day long baby!! I run a .020 on mine...squishes out perfect...

Free billet impeller with a radiator purchase? nice deal...nice looking hardware. You could just run alky...then the motor will never get hot...LOL... J/K. I think Watter Wetter or engine ice and a billet impeller will keep 95% of the shees out there cool...

Std. Gasket material...and they go from .012 to .040 that I know of...I'm sure there are plenty of other thicknesses as well.

I've never seen a steel base gasket for a big bore cub, Snop.... However...stockers use a steel head gasket, may have to check some of that stuff out...

I use High Temp RTV on both sides, top and bottom of the gasket, especially the outer edges and the divider, that's pretty thin metal on a 68mm bore...

I know I can get them from Packard...and will if need be, but does anyone else have one?

Thanks buddy...you too. I had to leave my house and go to a store in Cleveland today...what a nightmare...or I would've looked online and tell you the package arrived.... Glad it's all good!!! I'll find the instructions that came with it...and email or fax it over to you for the timing curves on it...(Stock)

Well boys...Christmas come early. gotta get a cable and bolt 'em on and go...we'll have to see how they run. I can tell you this, they are pieces of work....spotless and beautiful....

They can have a small gap and be ok.... If they have burnt pedals or corner....then they need to be replaced.

To be honest...bottom end doesn't mean nuthin to me, I'm interested in sheer HP and numbers... Will find out soon enough...

Scott...I'm not sure what dyno you saw that one, but there are PLENTY of people on here that will disagree with that. It all depends on the setup and motor type/state of tune. I know of two people that went from 4 to 11 or 12 and literally saw 4 or 5 MPH and an extra tenth or TWO by bumping the timing. That's not dyno...that's real world.... Now on a bone stock motor with no porting, you're probably right. This guy has a ported motor...so, I beg to differ. I'd bet it shows on a dyno and on the strip/dunes.

Jer... Shane got in a bit of trouble... His brother Jonathan is helping you out. I'm going to PM you two phone numbers to call him at. Tell him who you are, what Shane owes you...and he told me he'd square up with you.

Kiel... The Lions are 3-1, the bears are 1-3....and that old bastard Farve is having a record season.... Yeah, it's a weird season fo sho....

Rippen around the dunes on my 4 mil for 20 to 30 minutes at a time... I did note, however....to run straight race gas. I wouldn't chance the compression he has on a mix, let alone with more timing.... I'm just a timing freak...it's all good but plug afficianado...

You guys have no faith... I ran 110, +7 or 9 on my plate and the most advanced curve on my dyna all last year, beat the hell out of it...never a problem. Motor came apart like it was new....

+7 all day long is what I'd run...you should be fine...but obviously you'll have to listen to your motor and look at your plugs.

According to Packard's Site, they pull from 34 to 44... http://www.packardracing.com/start.php?pag...es.php%3Fid%3D2