dajogejr

You mean Little Sahara? You wrote the above in this thread, I thought "out there" meant you were coming to Bob's Family Raceway in Clarskston MI...I've misread?

Broke... What are you doing?? are you getting out of it...or just making way for a new project??

Yeah...he had the nerve to call me "Tubby"... I told him he can come to MI and call me anything he wants, cause I'd make him my bitch.... This is the same crybaby that was going on and on about how cool he was running from the cops in NY, etc.... It went from a good thread about a turbo bike to him being Billy Bad Ass....keyboard/Internet Tough guy.... Like I have time for kids.....

yeah..I got anxious and just wanted to hear it run with the new carbs...so I trimmed 1/4 inch off my cable. Packard doesn't take credit card, paypal..etc. So...Friday I overnighted him a check, I'll probably have my cable Wednesday with any luck. EVERYONE said it is a very, very nice piece of hardware... Are the needle and seats removable in these carbs? I know the fuel pumper Keihins you can't remove the seat. I'm gonna take 'em apart and drain/clean 'em before the weekend (I'm anal about cleaning the carbs and alky...) And again..thanks for the pointers. Is this your first time to Bobs?? Please stop by and say hi...

I think that 1211 is real, real nasty shit... When I had problems with my cub sealing last year...my buddy mentioned using that as a last resort to seal it...and good luck getting it apart...LOL...

I have a shortened Pro Design shifter...my buddy cut it for me, but cut it too short. Might work for blaster pegs....LMK if you're interested...

Well...since you had the ballz to run your mouth to me in PM...then decided to turn off your incoming PMs so I couldn't respond (Chicken shit move....) Here's my response for all to see. See...I don't have to hide from anyone or anything in PMs...I post my shit on the forums....for all to see, take it or leave it. You and your brother can stroke each other over this: Aw...I have a fan. How nice... Obviously I've left an impression on you since you initiated this conversation...I'm flattered...truly, I am. 50.2 HP at the rear wheels...and you're trying to brag about that? you have got to be kidding me... So...with your master porting, you were able to get 5 to 10 more HP than a bone stock bike with only bolt ons? Since I don't own a casting company or manufacturing plant....I had to buy my cylinder...kinda like you did when you bought a banshee...or let me guess...you make your own cylinders too...right? Nice try... 50.2 HP...WOW...what an animal you are. You must be a retard. I could port a cylinder with one eye open after a long night of drinking and a bad hangover and get more HP out of an OEM cylinder than that. Does your family actually let you work at their hot rod shop? I bet business is just booming thanks to your profound knowledge...50.2...that's pathetic....I wouldn't even lay claim to that or even mention that....Now wonder you're trying to get a turbo to work...maybe then you could hit like what...75HP? Wow..real screamer there.... I didn't know I could think any less of you....but, you did prove me wrong. Cause now I do... carry on porting king....

Yamabond 4 is what we use for cases snop.... It's just like 1104...

Pretty much what I did Friday...used a digital calipers to make sure they are even...they were a bit off, now they're within .020 MM of each other...I don't think I can get it much closer, still have the needle sit right, and have it able to twist equally both ways. I did read 47mm was the average starting point, I want to say mine are at 46.6 or 46.7...I know it was mid 46's...and that's richer than 47...so, I'm good with that. It started second kick, and seemed to free rev ok... I do have to take it apart again when I get my new cable from Packard...I will remeasure them...let you know what I end up with. Time will tell... I meant I had the PJs (Power Jets) 5 turns out from the fully seated position, not the needles... But I appreciate you taking the time to read my post and add to it....!! Both floats are in, the pin is farther away from the needle seat (end of the tab). I took one apart...and didn't pay attention to how they came off, so...cracked the other one open just to be sure.... cam told me the same thing. If you go without a pump, take a float out. It already has big bowls on them, and I plan on running a pump..I like the insurance!!

Ahh..yeah, PS does require a register. It was a link to Amsoil failure, you're already convinced it's what you're gonna use, so...it's not worth it... Have you done a plug chop? Reason i ask is 280 might be a little fat still using an airbox lid...but that still shouldn't cause it to run on. Do you have pics of the plugs you pulled out? Do you know how much compression you have? Is the timing stock? What gas are you running (Octane)?

Get rid of that shit oil, IMO...sorry, 80:1 is too lean a mixture for a two stroke, you're starving it for oil...I don't care how good amsoil says it protects, etc. Or at least mix it at a normal 32:1 or 40:1 ratio. I would check for air leaks...they can cause a hard run motor to wanna keep on running...although normally that will show on the plug, not always. Your jetting sounds ok to me...or close enough... Buy a carb rebuild kit, new needles and seats. Turn the carb upside down and put NO pressure on the floats, the spring in the needle is for a cushion over rough/bumpy terrain. Here is a good post from some people that know 100X more than I ever will (not saying much...lol) and who are very respected for their views and products in the industry...it's good reading. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread.../page/0/fpart/1

Luck of the draw...a stud removal tool, like any other specialty tool, always makes the job easier... Normally..with compression and timing changes you don't have to rejet.. HOWEVER.... As with any mod, a plug chop is a very good idea just to be safe...sometimes you may have to give it a little more fuel.

I talked to him about that when the site first launched...and I don't think he'll ever have online ordering... And he had very valid reasons. He's a people person...period. Even if he makes less of a sale, he'd rather sell you what you need, rather than what you want. And if he hasn't used an item he sells...he'll flat out tell you that. I always asked him what he used on his personal bike, and he'd be 100% honest with me... Jeff is very big on quality control...with an online shopping cart...I can see that getting out of his hands and realm of comfort...

He's got a new house which has been strapping him pretty tightly, we all know how that is. However, the last time he rode is the last time I got him to Bob's...and it's been a WHILE for him. I know he's gotta be dying. We were hoping for one more dune trip this year, I just don't have the coin for it...to be honest. I owe the dunes a beating after two times out earlier this year with not much luck for me. however, the last time my bike was there...it ran pretty good...wish I could've made it. His wife started a new job, and he needs good notice for her to get time off/day off. I honestly see him making a T&T before he'll make a race...although I keep trying to tell him, if he could get consistent on that 4 poke, he could win a few bucks!!! We'll see... I might take a trip down to Evan's this week to help him get a bike moving for this weekend...I know he's only rode Memorial and Labor day weekends...and he's gonna have a bike up for sale...so, he wants to go prove/test it at the track. I'm hoping my Lectrons work out...If so I'll ponder the idea of selling my Keihin alky carbs....

I'm going to tread carefully here because I don't want to insult a very nice guy, good businessman and site supporter... I have never had good luck with an after market head on my 4 mil early last year, or my 10 mil this year. However...once I finally got my 4 mil sealed last year, it did run great without leaks for the last 3/4 of the season. My cub did have a dip in it on the deck surface last year (4 mil) and once that was fixed, still have stud leaking problems...got that fixed finally and it was good all year afterwards. This year, through my own fault...I didn't check compression or cc my domes before I built my 10 mil. Domes were too small...so I can't fault anyone but myself for popping o rings on my head early this year. However, before the bike was ever fired...it had sealing problems on the head... I drag race with a pretty large and regular crowd at our tracks, and several have commented to me they've had leaking problems too. Most of the guys I run with either run stock heads on their OEM motors and cubs. However...most of them don't post on HQ...they're over on PS. With a Cheetah or other cylinder (cubs and OEM excluded) you have no choice but to run an after market head due to stud location. As said...I've tried every way I know how to seal 'em, nothing pisses me off more than clamping the hoses on and having it leak water as soon as you pour it in. Not leak...but seep it out....

Hey 421...I just say this post, and thank you very much for your help. I've been talking with camatv over on PS for help...and I'll probably take you up on that... I've disassembled the carbs, and they're pretty self explanatory...I guess, as said, the biggest thing is getting the correct needle. Bike seems responsive just fine in my garage...I'm gonna start with the PJ's 5 turns out and read a plug...go from there. They are 40/44 Lectrons, bored to 41.5, and they were setup for a 10 mil twister motor for the 1/8 mile...with a pump. So, getting fuel to my 10 mil cub over 300 feet shouldn't be a problem.... Less than a week away guys...looking forward to it for sure. Hoping Jankab can make it out...and I'm gonna try like hell to get Bob out there this week or next week if the T&T happens.

Sumthin like this: http://modquad.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=ch-1

I think the Trinity head is similar to the Mod-Quad head. It's all one piece, and just the domes are removable, no?

I'd disagree with that...Scott. I've NEVER had good luck with my cool head, and I sold it. I run a stocker cut and Oringed on my cub. In fact, many of the guys I ride with do the same... I've tried everything under the sun to get it to seal right. Dry, grease, RTV...thread sealer, RTV on the studs....copper washers under the nuts, everything. And unless I didn't fire the motor, I used a new O Ring kit every time... I'm very interested in the one piece heads that only have removable domes. I've been told by several people around here they are nice!! 7 orings instead of the 17 or 18 in a normal cool head. Maybe it's just me....

Do you still have the TORS installed on it?

Magic Racing has a great deal on everything you need to do the top end but the bore job itself.. From ALL gaskets, to pistons, pins, circlips, rings and pin bearing cages...it's literally complete..... Just make sure you order the right size to coordinate with your bore size... http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

I've never used one...but for a minor built motor such as yours, people swear by the cheapo tusk clutch kit from Rocky Mountain ATV. I bought my clutch from Jeff @ FAST (a site sponsor, by the way) and I'm on my third year of hard abuse on it. Stocker with bolt ons in 05, 4 mil cub last year (95ish HP) and my 10 mil on alky this year (120ish HP)...it just keeps on going. My advice is get a good clutch, use 3 HD springs and 3 stockers, and get an EZ Pull clutch perch/lever assembly... And if the cable is more than a few years old, get a new one, they're less than 15 bucks and you'd be surprised how a new cable feels... As loco said...however, very critical. The inner and outer hub are about 50 bucks for both brand new....worth it. If the basket is showing a lot of notching, well...replace that while you're at it....

Yep...cut and tape each wire individually so they can't touch, then tape 'em together.... I go to an auto parts store and get their plastic wire looms, you can get about 15 or 20 feet for less than 10 bucks, and tuck all my wires in there, as well...just cleans it all up!

You're fine...don't sweat it... Within seconds of starting up tranny fluid will splash up there and lube it...no big deal.

Snop.. Make sure you use something semi-drying... The cases flex/move just a hair, and that's why you can't use a solid/drying gasket material. I just put a thin coat on both halfs.....