dajogejr

If you don't feel like hunting down the parts, here's a good kit from a great guy, and a fellow member on here (machwon) I know the picture only shows partially for one cylinder, I assure you it's for a twin cylinder banshee.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Pre...sspagenameZWD1V

Odd... Isn't platinum better than gold??

When/Where was it?

I'd get a cheetah cylinder with powevalves If I were you...based on your suspension setup, you're a duner more than a drag racer...

3 solid seasons on Jeff's clutch, Street bike fibers, HD Barnett Steels and Barnett HD springs. 05 on my stocker with bolt ons, 06 with my 4 mil cub on gas and all this year on my 10 mil on alky.... I'm replacing it for 08 just because I think it's earned the right to retire...and I'm freshening up the rest of the motor over the winter. Make sure you get an EZ Pull lever and perch, too...makes a HUGE difference in the pull...

I would get porting then 33 or 35PWKs, I'm not a big fan of the PJ line up, they can be tough to tune in the idle/pilot circuit... Then, if you still want more mid and top, get CPI or Shearer... If you ride mostly 1/2 to WOT, then Shearer....if you're not on the pipe CONSTANTLY...then CPI... Both are fine choices, but I'll take Shearer design/fitment any day over CPI. Easier to get to your plugs, and the bends around the carbs and air filters sure are nice!!!

generally...people use the 795 series pistons for the long rod motors. However, as I'm sure you know...they don't make them larger than 66.00 mm. Blaster pistons have the same pin location as the 795, but I'm pretty sure the crown is in fact different. Do you think it's worth your time and money to have a set of domes cut for a motor on it's last bore, and on borrowed time as is? I agree the squish should be tighter, but you could use thinner base gaskets to tighten it up for now, then get new cylinders or yours re sleeved properly and use 795 series and a more standard cut dome.... Just throwing ideas out there.... or you could shave .020 to .030 off the tops of the cylinders.... There's more than a few ways to skin a cat..>

Oh no...I had a brain fart this morning, and you're dead on... .5 to 2.5 is usually the range of adjustment on stockers, but...like you said, less than 1 turn bigger pilots is a good idea. I'll go to 2.5 out only because it's gets so cold here, you might be good with 2.5 out when it's warm...and go down to 1.0 when it cools off...but you're dead on and thanks... As he said, it's critical do adjust them when the bike is warm, and wait 20 to 30 seconds between adjustments for it to "take" and for the motor to recognize the adjustment!! Thanks BB!!

Head was up my ass....typical Monday morning at work, you're right.... Air screws in, bigger pilots, out, smaller pilots... You're 100% right. Try 27.5 pilots, I don't think you'll need 30s....

Hard to say.... I'd be pulling the clutch cover off first...

Fine point, I've used speaker wire and carb clean to get pilots cleaned before on carbs that were "just cleaned" as well...good point.

Not to be a jerk, but good luck getting much more than 42 to 44 HP out of a stock port banshee...especially with an airbox still. 30 pilots will be too big, what is your compression at? It is possible it's running lean and/or starting to detonate. Adding timing will only make deto worse...check compression, maybe throw some race/pump fuel in there. If you turned the air screws all the way in, that would mean smaller than stock pilots, NOT larger ones. Keep the pilots stock, keep the clip in the middle position (try not to change two jetting circuits at the same time, the needle and main blend together after about 5/8th throttle...) Put 300 mains back in. The bike probably will run a little warmer, advancing timing and/or upping compression will make a bike run a bit hotter. Then do a plug chop... 30 pilots won't help... Also, you mean you got the air gap/pickup less than .020, not more than...right? I set mine .015 to .018...close the better....

You're gonna get it ported for the stroker, right?? +4 is my guess...gonna want longer and/or a wheelie bar if you're putting chisels in the tires for ice. Shorter arm if you're just gonna run cold cutter screws.

Yep, if you've already removed the whole airbox, there is no reason to try and deal with two boots AND the Oring. Just get pod filters....and outerwears... It's cheaper than a new top end and lower end bearings due to a healthy "sand"wich diet (Sorry, had to...)

As a fellow Michigander and local to the area as well, I thank you as well. Good to know...

Since he's cleaned the carb numerous times, I think we can probably rule that one out... Try a self leak down tester. Get carb cleaner.... Start the bike up, spray it all around the intakes first. Then around the base gaskets... If the bike wants to die out, you found the leak...

LIAR...you take yours to the grocery store, then the movie store to rent Porn....and lots of it... :whistling: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Replace the spark plug caps just for giggles. They're cheap, and stockers are known to go bad. Also...do a leak down test with a tester. Then...check all your wires for burnt, cut, crossed wires and finally take apart your kill switch and key switch and spray all the contacts clean with contact/electrical cleaner... My boy was having problems with his bike back firing, was a shitty tether/kill switch...

A few things, good luck selling on the forums, no one has money...especially w/ no title. To post pictures, upload them to Imageshack.us, copy and paste the hotlink for forums (1) into the body here. Also...put that bike on Craigslist.com I sold my 400EX in two days to a guy from Canada... Listed Saturday, Deposit Monday and picked it up with CASH Tuesday...

Had my 4 mil last year that was a dune/drag bike, leaning towards a drag bike (comp series marvin shaw front and rear..) and on race gas. I have my 10 mil now and love it...building a better chassis, porting it and some NOS for next year, these motors have a lot of potential. But...my 10 mil is strictly for drag racing...love it. I'd love to have a 4 mil cheetah PV motor on race gas for the dunes with some good suspension on it...

Slow down is fine, when it comes to a dead stop...then I'll worry.... LOL....

I'm not sure what is scarier... The fact you know about a kit of said type, or that you actually tried it... :ohmy:

Hmmm...so your "pet-cock" has a little case of the drips, huh? Time to see the doctor....maybe that transvestite wasn't such a good idea... Secrets may stay safe in Vegas, but it's symptoms may always haunt you...

I agree 100%. BigRed350X has a very good thread step by step, not to be replaced by the clymers, but it is very helpful. I can't seem to find it with a quick search...but it's very helpful...

Amen... A 421 cub takes a little to get wound up...where a 450 Grunts of the get.. On a drag race, there is no question who the winner is... But on a circle track, just goes to show you, setup, setup, setup... The bigger/faster motor doesn't always win, even in a drag race....